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'03 Ranger 4X2 project

This is a discussion on '03 Ranger 4X2 project within the Full Size Ranger Discussion forums, part of the Polaris Ranger Forum category; Hello Forum ! I'm new to this site and after reading for the past few days, I have questions I didn't find earlier here. I ...

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Old 10-31-2012, 01:51 AM   #1
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'03 Ranger 4X2 project

Hello Forum ! I'm new to this site and after reading for the past few days, I have questions I didn't find earlier here.
I have just got a '03 Ranger that has not been treated very well but, the price was right so I took it on as a project. I did get it to run after cleaning a flooding carburetor, replacing the spark plug, and changing the oil. My first question, the fuel pump was 'rigged' with a toggle switch by the man I got the Ranger from. The pump sounds like it doesn't stop after filling the carb. and of course, I leave it on to keep it running. Will this hurt anything the way it's wired up?
Next, when I decide to cut it off after a short ride, I turn the key to OFF, and nothing. I had to lift the seat and pull the plug wire. Could this be a ground wire to ignition or bad switch ?
One other thing, won't go into high gear. Just grinds. Low and reverse seems OK .
Thanks , in advance, for any clues with this.
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Old 10-31-2012, 12:47 PM   #2
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Sounds like you could have a bad ignition switch. Maybe that's why he ran separate power to the fuel pump, because the key switch is supposed to turn it on also.

If the fuel pump doesn't ever turn off, then it's probably calibrated to use a too-high fuel pressure for your carb float.

Look under the bed at where the shift cable connects to a lever on the transmission. Look at how it moves when you shift. Try to put the lever into the HIGH position manually. You might need to adjust the cable so it will put the lever into the correct position - hopefully that is the problem and the transmission isn't hosed.
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Old 10-31-2012, 08:38 PM   #3
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Thanks Russ, I've found some cut wires where someone has been rat'in around with the ignition. About the fuel pump, I don't understand about the 'too-high fuel pressure for the float'. Is it OK like it is or do I need to replace or adjust my float ? I assumed the pump should shut down once the carb was full and back on when needed.
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Old 10-31-2012, 09:54 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hayward View Post
I assumed the pump should shut down once the carb was full and back on when needed.
I'm no expert but that is how mine works and it's my understanding that there is a pressure switch built into the electric fuel pump to turn off the pump once the fuel lines reach a certain pressure.

Once your carb bowl fills up, the carb float raises and closes the needle valve that allows gas into the carb. When that is closed, the fuel pump should sense increased pressure and be satisfied, and stop running.

But sometimes (which can happen when people replace the fuel pump with a generic one) the new fuel pump's pressure setting is too high and it keeps running. That can force the carb to overfill, and of course that is bad.

I have no idea whether the pressure switch feature in your fuel pump is adjustable, but if I were you I would try to find out. You don't want it running constantly.
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Old 10-31-2012, 10:32 PM   #5
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Thanks again, Russ. I will check the pump out (among other wiring nightmares on this machine).
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Old 11-01-2012, 10:25 PM   #6
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Help with ignition

I have decided one of the previous owners has replaced the ign. switch by cutting the wires and splicing back what they needed to get it to run. It will run but switch won't kill the engine. I've tested the switch and it is functional but I'm not sure which wire, stator, CDI, to rewire at the splice. Or, which component in the electrical system do I need to have on the switch ??. I have a mess with plenty of time, just need some input here, thanks.
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Old 11-02-2012, 04:50 AM   #7
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I think you should find the thread in the forum from the buy selling .pdf file service manuals, and buy one. I think you will need plenty of other info from it in your project and it may have wiring diagrams that will help you out.
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Old 11-02-2012, 09:55 AM   #8
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Thanks Russ, After seeing what I had to deal with here, I have already downloaded a pdf manual. I just wasn't sure which component I needed to re-wire into the switch. I'll study the wiring diagram (on 2 different pages) a little deeper. BTW, the grinding into high gear I asked about earlier is still pending. I'll try to take care of this wiring problem first so, stand by.
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Old 11-02-2012, 10:25 AM   #9
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Check your idle speed. These machines are hard to shift + will grind if the idle RPM is too fast.

Does it shift easier when the engine is not running?

Also, I guess you know the machine has to be stationary when you shift (can't shift on the fly).

Last edited by phirman; 11-02-2012 at 10:32 AM.
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Old 11-02-2012, 02:21 PM   #10
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Thanks phirman, for your input. Once it warms up, it idles around 1400rpm. I haven't tried to adjust the linkage yet (for grinding) as I have more problems with this machine and now just trying to get one at a time (wiring nightmare). While I was test riding, low gear, I would notice it will simply jump to neutral. Gear selecter is not the problem, I stop, move differential locker to neutral position, and feel it jump back in gear. ? . I pull locker back down for single wheel pull and I'm OK until shortly, it jumps out again. I did try adjusting the rearend cable but, seemed worse. Like I was saying, I've inherited a mega project and this is my first week with a (severely abused) SXS/UTV .
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