Brakes "How To" (with pictures) - - Polaris Ranger Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 02-14-2010, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
Cliff Hanger
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Brakes "How To" (with pictures)

My brakes have been squeeking for a while now, they work well, but the noise drives me nuts

So I shopped around and after seeing how expensive these pads are I decided I would check them out first before shelling out the cash for new.

I searched the web and found posts sort of describing "how to" but I figured I would document & photograph the process.
(note: I have 1.5" spacers on the front, so if you dont that might look odd to you, you will have more room to work)

What you need:
(pretty basic hand tools everyone should have)

Jack (and hopefully you have jackstands to use as well)
Wrench to remove your wheels (I have aftermarket wheels so I dont remember the factory lug nut size ?, but mine are now 14mm)
1/2" or 13mm wrench or preferably socket, extension, & ratchet)
Large flatblade Screwdriver, or a C clamp
"Disk Brake Quiet" they sell the little packets at every autoparts store. I bought a 4.5 bottle years ago, probably 20+ brakes & still going.
Spray can of Brake cleaner (I buy cheap stuff at Walmart probably where I got the brake quiet too ?
Some heavy grit sand paper I had some 60 grit on hand (an electric sander makes it easier too)

Only my fronts were sqeeking so that is all I worked on this time, in a couple weeks I'll do the rears, just cause I can.

Set parking brake, and lossen your lug nuts while the Ranger is still on the ground.

Jack up the front of the Ranger and secure with jack stands under the frame, and blocks under the rear tires to help prevent rolling.

Remove wheels (might as well use this opportunity to rotate your tires if you dont have directional tread tires)

The brake caliber is secured from the back with 2 bolts (13mm or 1/2" both will work)
The pads are adjusted by using an allen wrench head screw in the top post.
Remove the allen screw and both bolts and set aside, the whole caliber with mounting bracket will now pull right off.

Using a large screwdriver (or you could even use a C-clamp) press the pads back against the piston in the caliber to push the piston in,
you will need to do this to have enough space to get the pads out of, and back into, the caliber (very little clearance in this caliber for the pads).

This picture shows the caliber with the rear pad still installed, usiing a screwdriver or a C clamp press the pad into the caliber to push the piston in.

This picture shows the pads removed and the pison pressed in flush with the caliber.

Inspect your pads to see if there is enough material to reinstall, or if its time for new. Mine were OK , but the process is the same for used or new.

It seems the pads for "most" Rangers are all the same, inners and outers & fronts and rears (accourding to the P/N's)
Mine is a 2005 but you can confirm if this this is true for yours, by looking up replacement pads, if they are all the same P/N, then bingo !

Because of minor grooves and wear I didnt want to put the same pad back in the same spot, so I moved inner to outer and visa/versa.
This should help them not wear back into the same grooves and patterns, and should make everything work better and get longer wear.
Because I wanted to do this I marked each pad as they came off with a U or O to match the mark left by the caliber.

To reuse old pads: you need to get everything smoothed out and cleaned up.
After marking my pads I used the sander with 60 grit to clean out the brake dust and smooth out the grooves on both sides of the pads.
Then I cleaned them with brake cleaner also.

Before sanding and cleaning:

After sanding & cleaning:

Once your old pads are cleaned and preped, or if using new pads:
Coat the back of the pads with a thin even layer of "Brake quiet" and set them aside to cure for a few minutes, while you work on the rotors.
You can overdue this stuff so go easy (just a dap will do ya )

Now turn your attention to the rotors. Use heavy grit sandpaper to scratch up the rotors (a sander comes in handy here too) I always try to move the sandpaper accross the rotor instead of with the wear, this removes the glazing and gives the pads a better surface to bite. Remember to do Both sides of the rotor. Then clean everything off with the brake cleaner.

While I was there this was good chance to grease the lower ball joint. I cleaned off the zert and added a few pumps of grease.
while I had the grease handy, I used my finger and I applied a very very thin coat of grease to the caliber post the pads slide on.
(this should make the pads slide easierwhen the brake is applied)

Now reassemble the pads into the caliber (this is where the marking helped me remember how to swap the inner to outer.

To get the pad back in I found it easiest to slide one side just onto the post then swing the other up and into position. If it doesnt seem to want to fit its because the whole post slides in and out on the mounting bracket, so squeeze the post back in to the mounting bracket, it's kinda a goovy setup but you will see what I mean once you have it in your hand.

First the inner (remember disc quiet side in)

Then the Outer (disc quiet side out)

Slide the brakes over the rotor and replace the bolts to attach the mounting braket back into place. Remember these bolts are pretty dang tight !
(someone with a manual can probably add the actual torque but just tighten them down good and you will be good.)

Now reinstall the allen adjusting screw, As you turn it in, it is drawing the the outer pad closer to the rotor. So turn the rotor as you screw it in, you want it to just just make good contact between the pad and rotor, it should spin freely but be making contact.
Too tight and the brake drags, to loose and the peddle will be low, so its a bit of a balance.

Re-install wheels and tires, and remove jack stands and blocks, and lower the Jack.

Pump the brake pedal a few times to move the caliber piston back out into place, and start up and test drive.

Mine pulled a little bit to the left so I just tightened the allen screw on the right a little to balance it out.
(I could have just as well loosened the left, to have the same effect)

My Brakes have never felt this good, and are now smooth and quiet as silk.

EDIT: Note to self, next time wash the ranger prior to posting pictures, and working in the garage.
(must now sweep garage because of Mud that fell off during this project)

2005 4x4 with stuff :-)
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post #2 of 8 Old 02-14-2010, 07:25 PM
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Re: Brakes "How To" (with pictures)

Man, that was cool of you to post all the "How-to" pics. Thanks a bushel for the time you took to do it.

67.3 % of all statistics are made up on the spot.
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post #3 of 8 Old 02-14-2010, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
Cliff Hanger
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Re: Brakes "How To" (with pictures)

I hope it helps people out.

By the way I just got back from about a 10 mile drive, on & off road. And I can honestly say my brakes have never been this good.

I still have a little squeek from the rear ones so I'll get to those in a week or 2.
I imagine they are exactly the same but if I see anything different.
I'll post up some pics and descriptions.

I just noticed the banana smiley is on the list twice

2005 4x4 with stuff :-)
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post #4 of 8 Old 08-18-2011, 07:55 PM
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any chance you have any pictures of how thick the new brakes are or how thin the olds can be before they need to be changed.
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post #5 of 8 Old 08-18-2011, 08:04 PM
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any advice would be helpful. My brakes sound like they are scrubbing almost as if someone has the foot just barely pressed on the brakes all the time. I wonder if you could back the adjustment screw out and that would help
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post #6 of 8 Old 07-14-2012, 02:24 PM
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Scooby....Thanks for the pics. I got tired paying someone to fix my Ranger, so when I found this forum I decided to start doing this stuff myself. With your help, I just finished a brake job and repaired the emergency break. Appreciate it. DOC in Virginia.
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post #7 of 8 Old 07-14-2012, 07:01 PM
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nice post

Nice job posting, I will book mark this one!
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post #8 of 8 Old 08-18-2012, 09:17 PM
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Thanks for the info, good job.
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