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Polaris Ranger Diesel General Discussions for the Polaris Ranger Diesel

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post #51 of 57 Old 12-22-2016, 06:08 PM
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I think Polaris stinks. I have a 2010 ev that I have spent $ trying to keep it going. I finally parked it and bought a kubota diesel new this year and have had no trouble what so ever. It's a better machine than Polaris and built like a tank. Get rid of your Polaris and buy a good machine,no belts,no clutchs. Kubota is the best.
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post #52 of 57 Old 01-27-2017, 06:43 AM
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I am suffering the same issue with 2012 Diesel. Spoke to the service gut @ the dealership where I purchased it, and he acted like this was something he had never heard of. I have to drive over an hour to get it serviced at an authorized Polaris facility; my local John Deere dealership has offered to look at it for me; they work on makes and models, and I bought my JD tractor, Stihl saws there so I trust them. I am leaning towards buying the Duraclutch and part of me wants to fix the Ranger and sell it. Very disappointing thread!
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post #53 of 57 Old 01-27-2017, 03:32 PM
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I cant possibly figure a Diesel or "EV" as a good buy. The extra cost is just not "Value Added".
Diesel fuel is more expensive along with the initial cost. "EV" just doesn't make sense, limited range for one.

2014 Ranger 800 Midsize "LE" Gold Mist
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post #54 of 57 Old 02-03-2017, 08:26 PM
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Clutch is slow to engage

Just bought a used 2015 Ranger Crew Diesel with 120 hrs.& wow after reading all these horror stories I hope I made the right decision. Does any one know if there is some kind of adjustment on the clutch, mine shifts fine & everything seems to be running good except for when I'm trying to take off I give some throttle & it just sits there until it finally engages & takes off. Just doesn't seem right & also is a real pain in the ass to load or when you are backing up in close quarters!! HELP
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post #55 of 57 Old 12-21-2017, 09:04 PM
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I had the same problem. It's the spring on the drive. It's a stiff one I put a weaker one and works fine. It's like a torque converter. The stiff one required higher rpm to engage.

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post #56 of 57 Old 07-19-2018, 08:14 AM
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I have a 2014 polaris ranger crew diesel 900 and when i bought it i noticed it was a little difficult to shift but still operateable . as the time went by its has 1000 miles on it and now its impossible to shift while the bike is turned on . my idle is not high its only at 850 rpm

i have a new shift cable too

transmission shifts fine when the machine is off

after reading all the nighmare post here i believe i have the same problem

i seen a post about buying a used 2009 sportman secondary . DOES THIS REALLY WORK ? or do we have to bite the bullet and buy the duraclutch ?
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post #57 of 57 Old 07-19-2018, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Interceptor View Post
I've been hesitant to post this because I really didn't give SVI a chance to make it right. I want to make it clear that I am not bashing them, I'm sure they would do whatever it takes to make me happy, but on the other hand I don't think the Duraclutch is as great as everyone else thinks it is, or maybe I just got a bad one. I ran the Duraclutch for about three weeks before taking it off. Besides the initial alignment issue that I talked about in another thread, there are a few other things I don't like about it. It doesn't upshift fast enough, it increased the engine RPM under almost all conditions. The little Yanmar is essentially making full torque by 1600 RPM, there is no benefit to increasing the RPM, it just uses more fuel and makes more noise. I can say for sure that acceleration with the stock clutch setup feels faster, I felt a noticeable decline in acceleration after installing the Duraclutch, and an increase in acceleration after putting the stock primary back on. I don't have enough flat land here to ever find top speed for more than a few seconds, but I think I lost a few MPH on the top end, and on a hill where I could do 25 MPH with the stock clutch I can only get 22-23 with the Duraclutch. I found the engine braking to be a little too agressive. Descending a hill with no throttle provides nice smooth braking down to a certain point, maybe 5 MPH, then there's an abrupt braking action that tends to cause the rear tires to break traction and skid. On a better surface where the tires maintain grip it just makes for an uncomfortable ride jerking your head forward, it almost feels as if someone jabbed the brake pedal. My wife would actually look over at me as if I was doing something wrong. You can work around this by adding a little throttle at the right time to smooth it out, but for me it was another annoyance. And on top of all that, I didn't think the improvement in changing gears was all that great, I still had some difficulty at times and it seemed completely random. I understand most of these issues can be worked out with some tuning and the people at SVI seemed eager to help, but the reason I bought the Duraclutch was because I didn't want to mess around with tuning. For $1500 I thought I could just bolt on the perfect setup and go.

So I did what I should have done to begin with. For the past 3 months I've been running a stock 2014 diesel primary with a secondary and belt from a 2009 Sportsman XP 850. The Sportsman 850 secondary is the same as the one that comes with the Duraclutch, they are the same in every way except for the part numbers that are stamped on them. They are both what's known as a Team Tied secondary, both use the same 52 degree reverse cut EBS helix and the same spring. The Duraclutch also uses the same belt as the Sportsman 850. With the 2014 Diesel primary and 2009 XP 850 secondary I've got my acceleration back, and smooth engine braking down to about 5 MPH before it freewheels. The narrower belt works great with the diesel primary, and because there's more clearance in the idle position there is no drag. This setup has proven to be the best solution for the hard shifting issue on my machine, no problems shifting at all. It still engages at the same RPM, it just takes a split second longer for the sheave to close the gap. It's not quite as smooth engaging as the Duraclutch but it is very acceptable. Top speed seems the same as with the Duraclutch, just a few MPH below stock.

So for anyone who just want's to fix the hard shifting problem and do it cheaply here's what you need.

2009 Sportsman 850 secondary part #1322777
2009 Sportsman 850 belt part #3211160 Gates #23G3836

The secondary is $350 new, I bought a used one on Ebay for $75. and a Gates belt from Amazon for $44. The 2010 Sportsman secondary part #1322855 is the same but has a dual angle helix, I'm not sure what affect it would have but I wouldn't be afraid to try it. I also bought a spare used diesel primary and have plans to install a one way bearing in it to get full engine braking, but haven't gotten around to it.
Does this really work ? I have a 2014 polaris ranger crew diesel 900 and im experiencing hard shifts actually when the machine is on it wont shift at all . I checked the idle and its at 860 rpm . i have a new shift cable and when machine is off it shifts fine also at idle the mahine creeps trys to move

is the DURACLUTCH the only way to fix this ?
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