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Polaris Ranger Diesel General Discussions for the Polaris Ranger Diesel

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post #11 of 23 Old 12-17-2011, 03:10 AM Thread Starter
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I added speakers front & rear, amp, wireless Bluetooth music and phone link to my iphone, Air Ride control panel, and 8 switch touch panel to control all my lights, compressor, amp etc. The speakers are Polk Audio db series components, 5.25" up front, and 6.5" in the rear. The speakers are marine rated and come with stainless steel hardware. The amp is an Arc Audio Mini 125.2 and I really like it. It fits perfect and has nice controls and connection terminals. The bluetooth receiver is a Belkin AirCast. The roof is a Salient Designs SD613. It comes with the front speaker pods and storage area already installed. You just have to cut holes for the speakers. I used a drywall router and then a Dremmel to clean up the cut. I ordered the empty rear speaker pods for $50, and then I added my own speakers. But they do have an option where it all comes with Sony speakers already installed.







LED dome lights added on both sides of the center roll bar


Front LED lights


Rear LED light
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post #12 of 23 Old 12-24-2011, 11:10 AM
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Stereo install

Great looking unit. Question...on the stereo install, how did you run the wires back down to the unit? Through the roll bar or down the outside?
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post #13 of 23 Old 12-24-2011, 06:25 PM
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Nice lloking machine. Makes me wanna go work on mine
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post #14 of 23 Old 12-26-2011, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Colesdad22 View Post
Great looking unit. Question...on the stereo install, how did you run the wires back down to the unit? Through the roll bar or down the outside?
I just have 2 wires covered in black loom going up the front passenger roll bar in the corner behind where the windshield touches the bar. It's hardly noticeable. I ran a 10ga power wire and a 14ga ignition control wire. The ground wire just goes to one of the top roll cage bolts, so that's one less 10ga wire I had to run through the loom. The stereo gets its signal via wireless Bluetooth to my iPhone.

Once I do the air ride system I'll have to run a few more small wires up to the roof for the Dakota Digital control panel.

Here she is before we went out for a Christmas ride.


Last edited by KillerRC; 12-26-2011 at 09:22 PM.
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post #15 of 23 Old 12-26-2011, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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I decided to put the heater in the big storage bin under the front seat of the Ranger Crew. The heater only used up 1 of the 4 sections of the storage bin. I got the Summit Racing heater and the defrost vent kit. I was going to run a duct up to the dash, but I tested the blower and it really blows a lot of air. So I decided to not run a duct up to the dash. I mounted one vent in the center blowing up toward the dash/windshield, and then two vents at the foot area; one vent on the drivers side and one on the passengers side. Total of 3 vents. The fan control is in the center too. So its all in one compact, easy to get to, area. It seems to work great and blow hot air once the thermostat opens. All the plumbing is inline with the hot water line from the engine to the radiator. I got all the fittings and valve from Lowe's (dang copper is expensive) and I got the red rubber heater hose line from NAPA. The fittings and valve have a nice 1" flow straight through, so there's no restriction when the valve is all the way open. For maximum heat I can close the valve, which forces all of the hot water through the heater core before it gets to the radiator. I'll get a few more pics once I get the Ranger outside in the daylight.











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post #16 of 23 Old 01-01-2012, 02:00 AM Thread Starter
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I was going to add a Polaris rear window, but the dealer had em backordered forever, so I bought this Kimpex rear window from Ebay for $150.
It fits great, doesn't block visibility, and seems to cut down on the wind inside the cab. I like how it mounts. It's sandwiched between the seat, headrests, and the X part of the roll cage. It seems solid and doesn't make any noises while driving.





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post #17 of 23 Old 02-01-2012, 11:51 PM Thread Starter
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Drove about 20 miles today on road. Yes its street legal in my area.

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post #18 of 23 Old 02-03-2012, 10:42 PM Thread Starter
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I added a MOMO- Quark- Black steering wheel and I really like it. I got it from sidebysidesports. It came with a Grant tapered steering wheel adapter which adapts the splines to a 3 hole pattern, then the steering wheel came with a MOMO 3 hole to 6 hole adapter which bolts to the steering wheel. The steering wheel is about 1" narrower diameter than the stock one, which makes it easier to get in and out of the vehicle. And I'm not sure how its possible, but its easier to steer the tires now. A smaller steering wheel should actually be more difficult to steer because theres less leverage. Maybe we loosened up something in the steering when we knocked off the stock steering wheel. Whatever we did, its easier to steer now. To remove the stock steering wheel from the splines: Pull of center cap, loosen big nut in the middle. Hold on the steering wheel while you hit the steel spline shaft down with a hammer. This should make the steering wheel pop loose from the splines and be able to pull wheel off.







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post #19 of 23 Old 02-04-2012, 02:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KillerRC View Post
To remove the stock steering wheel from the splines: Pull of center cap, loosen big nut in the middle. Hold on the steering wheel while you hit the steel spline shaft down with a hammer. This should make the steering wheel pop loose from the splines and be able to pull wheel off.
Be careful hitting the shaft with a hammer... if you damage the threads or spread/mushroom the end of the shaft, you're hosed. It helps to leave the nut on the threads so you're hitting the nut instead of the shaft.
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post #20 of 23 Old 02-04-2012, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Russ Chastain View Post
It helps to leave the nut on the threads so you're hitting the nut instead of the shaft.
That's what I did. I just didn't mention it. I'm a pro.
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