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Experimental Lithium Applications

40K views 160 replies 18 participants last post by  Curt Corum 
#1 · (Edited)
Lithium DIY

All these talks about Lithium conversions made me want to try one. Voltronix kit is nice, but quite a bit spendy, and offers way more range than I need. Why pay
extra for something I won't use ?

I had some conversations here with other forum members to figure out the direction. One thing I wanted to avoid is having to reprogram Sevcon, since
cheap Canbus adapters are nowhere to be found, and "old sevcon software" thread turned into some kind of joke. So I wanted to try to match the Lithium power
pack to the factory Sevcon programming, and figure out the charging problem later.

For the Lithium cells Nissan Leaf modules are quite nice, and I may end up using them, but there one can either do 14S or 16S configurations, which could
be either too little or too much. So instead I decided to do a trial run with a small pack built out of Ford C-Max hybrid cells.

Those are 5.5Ah (or so) cells made by Panasonic. They are rated at 150A continuous discharge (at least that's what the seller claimed), and for both the
discharge current and capacity reasons I decided to go with 4 modules, 15 cells each (switching to 14 later depending on findings).

Below are the pics of the build. Next step is to send the DeltaQ charger for reprogramming to get a correct charging profile going on, and then I can
start doing some range tests. I haven't removed the lead-acid batteries to test for worst case (loaded) scenario. Also note the use of improvised parts -
trying to make it cost efficient :)

















 
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#136 ·
I’d have to build some type of case for them?
There is a whole thread on that: Let's see your lithium boxes!

For light duty you may get away with just using aluminum angle to bolt them to original battery plates, kind of like I did on my mower. When I dropped Pacifica modules into the Ranger I also didn't construct a box, they've been fine for over a year now - I just put little fenders there in front of the plates (not pictured).
 

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#137 ·
I need to replace my batteries in my 2011 Ranger EV. I'm thinking about doing a conversion to Lithium this time after reading post. I'm a good mechanic. Could anyone out there walk me through step by step install who has done a conversion to Nissan Leaf battery or better option? Thanks!!
 
#138 · (Edited)
Voltronix has a kit that is simply plug-n-play. Well engineered and quality materials with an established business to provide follow-on service if needed. I have logged over 600 miles on my 2014 Voltronix Li conversion which is used primarily for forestry work in NE Washington State. Most Voltronix conversions take between 10 and 14 hours depending on how much corrosion has to be corrected before converting. The kit its self can be installed by a mechanically inclined person in 8 to 12 hours. First step is contact Voltronix and determine what size pack you want. Then they will ask you to uninstall your Sevcon controller and the DeltaQ charger. These are sent to Voltronix for reprogramming and are returned to you with the other conversion components.
 

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#141 ·
Bms16t pics. I opened the BMS enclosure to see the quality of the circuitry - seems okay. The only observation so far - no mounting lips on either BMS or the monitor. Also I haven't quite figured out how they're balancing at the high current they're claiming - I don't see any beefy resistive components.
 

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#143 ·
Okay An update! Got the new machine finally (new to me, 2014). Had the original batteries. Pulled them and the corroded to death battery trays. Pressure washed the hell out of it. Amazon will bring me the chemicals to make the frame acceptable again. For those who don't know there are a pair of 2A fused pigtails (in the pic with my hand) that connect to the + post of the most negative battery. These are there to give you 12v Standby power (think the clock on a radio). By their nature they unbalance the pack. So I peeled the harness apart back to the controller and removed both. I left the wires otherwise, in case there's ever a need. Also pulled the lower skid guard off to clean out 20 lbs of mud!
 

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#144 ·
Then I set the lithiums in place. Since they are the latest and greatest from the automotive world, they provide 11.7KW in a footprint about the same size as two of the old lead acid batteries. Two points:
  • The batteries will be fully enclosed and will have active cooling
  • As these are NMC and not LiFePo4, they are about half the size for the same capacity

Still deciding on an aluminum battery box (with clear lid) or all plastic (polycarbonate). Metal is easier for me to work with and stronger. Plastic is a better electrical and thermal insulator.

BMS: Up in the air still. I know I need at least 200ma of balancing current if its not active balancing. But up over an amp would be better. At high charge rates, high balancing current is critical so one cell doesn't overvoltage. There is a quick youtube video on tesla cells balancing. At low SOC, they are off by over 30mv. With high charge currents one cell is bouncing as high as 4.202v. They also use 4.200 as the full charge voltage so its not way high, but I want to stay very even. I also want a bms that will run an external SOC display or give me that data via bluetooth. I love data!!
 

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#146 ·
My current pack is 80lb (5kW). What I've noticed, while it makes it nice and snappy on even terrain, loss of ballast on trails with sideways incline makes it less stable and actually top heavy. I even entertained an idea of having removable ballast of some kind for use on that kind of terrain. Might eventually just build a bigger heavier Lithium pack and also put a decent inverter in for running power tools.
 
#148 ·
Worked on the box today. Using .080 aluminum and rivets. I entertained the idea of bent corners and welding it but I don't have a tig (or a press brake) and I'm not spending $300+ for welding and bending. I'll seal the seams and insulate the inside and then tape the seams of the insulation.
 

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#149 · (Edited)
This thread is where all member discussion of self designed and assembled Lithium conversions will be placed. It is explicitly understood that the ideas, concepts, designs and assemblies of components are not from commercial sources and may not be the result of professional engineering or persons with extensive understanding of the chemistries and mechanics involved. RangerForums.net will not be responsible for any result or outcome impacting members who apply the ideas, designs or concepts expressed by forum members in this thread.
 
#153 ·
Hey all, just watched a video on these used Lithium batteries and wondered if they would work in our Ranger ev's?

 
#154 ·
In my humble opinion, they will work very well as your power source.

You will need to get your charger reprogrammed for these cells (or buy a new charger if it cannot be reprogrammed). And of course, you will need to bolt them down solidly, wire the 2 packs in series, etc.

The fuse on your Sevcon should work fine with this new power source. Since 3.0V per cell is empty, FLAT (which you should likely avoid)... your battery gauge will read around 48V for empty so the SOC gauge will be a LOT misleading.

My Ranger has the typical surging or hesitating when the battery voltage drops below ... I think it is 42V .. under load. These cells should be stiff enough that they do not show that problem unless you have a connection really loose!

Too bad they only ship to the lower 48!
 
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