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post #1 of 26 Old 11-25-2018, 10:37 AM Thread Starter
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Controller 4 Blinks ( Contactor )

Returned from deer camp last night w 70% charge on Li-ion batteries. Left on trailer and unloaded Ev this morning. Disconnected trailer and got back in the ev and don't remember if it was on or off. But the red wrench light was on and error light on BMS charge indicator was on and only the 10% light was on. After doing some checking the battery pack reads 77%. There is blink code on the controller (4) which means contactor issue. How do i check the contactor or troublshoot it. It does not click when key is turned on but it makes a sound when turned off. I wouldn't call ita click. 48 volt fuses are good and read continuity. Very Confused

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Voltronix USA 200AH Li-ion Conversion
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Custom made rear cargo box mud guards, Eagle eye backup lights, ITP Terracross RT Tires (Front 25x8x12 Rear 25x10x12),
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post #2 of 26 Old 11-25-2018, 11:55 AM
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Arrow Measure Pack Voltage at Contactor

Measure the voltage from ground on the motor controller to the input on the contactor.

With the key on it should be the same as the B+ terminal on the controller.

P32 Contactor.jpg

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post #3 of 26 Old 11-25-2018, 01:53 PM
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There are two smaller wires (coil activation) connecting to the contactor on the passenger side. When I pull one of them off and switch the key, I get the
wrench. It is possible that you have a lose connection there. They seem to be tension connectors similar to spark plug connectors, maybe try squeezing
them with pliers slightly and then slide them back on.

When I tested this I pulled it off with key on... was a bad idea There was a small arc there, which I didn't expect at all.
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post #4 of 26 Old 11-25-2018, 04:52 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cricketo View Post
There are two smaller wires (coil activation) connecting to the contactor on the passenger side. When I pull one of them off and switch the key, I get the
wrench. It is possible that you have a lose connection there. They seem to be tension connectors similar to spark plug connectors, maybe try squeezing
them with pliers slightly and then slide them back on.

When I tested this I pulled it off with key on... was a bad idea There was a small arc there, which I didn't expect at all.
Yes I checked them earlier before posting this this morning. They are tension rings in the boots and one was not very tight so i squeezed it a little bitand it did better but no change. read my reply to Xfaxman.
Thanks for submitting.

2014 Ranger EV
Voltronix USA 200AH Li-ion Conversion
Polaris Lock n Ride Roof w dome light, Mictunning 21.5" Light Bar with green cover lenses, Kolpin ¼" Lexan Full Tilting Windshield,
Thunderhawk front mud shields & fender well protectors, Custom front and rear fender flares.
Custom made rear cargo box mud guards, Eagle eye backup lights, ITP Terracross RT Tires (Front 25x8x12 Rear 25x10x12),
Superwinch Terra 1500 Mounted on rear cargo bed
Overhead Gun n Bow Rack
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post #5 of 26 Old 11-25-2018, 05:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xfaxman View Post
Measure the voltage from ground on the motor controller to the input on the contactor.

With the key on it should be the same as the B+ terminal on the controller.

Attachment 20381
Thanks Xfaxman I returned home this afternoon and checked the cart. with the key on. At controller Batter- post to top post on solenoid i got 52V. From Battery- to Battery + post on controller i got 24V.
Strangest thing happened?? All indicator light on dash were on but seemed dim so i thought what about the headlights. I checked them and they were dim or not on as i was viewing from being over the seat. I turned the key off and back on and heard the solenoid click and the turf mode selector clicked. Checked the voltage again as you described and now have same volts at both. The green light on controller is steady and wrench light went away along with the error orange light on the BMS guage. Put it F and it moved. R it moved. Like it never happened. Do you think I shoud consider replacing the solenoid as there may be a reason it sticked and may completely fail later when i could possible be stranded at camp.

2014 Ranger EV
Voltronix USA 200AH Li-ion Conversion
Polaris Lock n Ride Roof w dome light, Mictunning 21.5" Light Bar with green cover lenses, Kolpin ¼" Lexan Full Tilting Windshield,
Thunderhawk front mud shields & fender well protectors, Custom front and rear fender flares.
Custom made rear cargo box mud guards, Eagle eye backup lights, ITP Terracross RT Tires (Front 25x8x12 Rear 25x10x12),
Superwinch Terra 1500 Mounted on rear cargo bed
Overhead Gun n Bow Rack
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post #6 of 26 Old 11-25-2018, 05:45 PM
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With the key off, check the resistance where the red arrows are in the picture below.

Be sure the probes are on the bolt head and the stud, not on the cable connectors. This will show if there is a bad cable or poor connection.

The contacts inside the contactor are the most likely cause. Some solenoid contactors can be taken apart and burnished, but replacement is the best option.
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post #7 of 26 Old 11-25-2018, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boilermkr View Post
--------------------------------------------
and may completely fail later when i could possible be stranded at camp.
Carry a jumper cable and jumper across the contactor.
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post #8 of 26 Old 11-26-2018, 08:46 AM Thread Starter
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What gauge wire?

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Polaris Lock n Ride Roof w dome light, Mictunning 21.5" Light Bar with green cover lenses, Kolpin ¼" Lexan Full Tilting Windshield,
Thunderhawk front mud shields & fender well protectors, Custom front and rear fender flares.
Custom made rear cargo box mud guards, Eagle eye backup lights, ITP Terracross RT Tires (Front 25x8x12 Rear 25x10x12),
Superwinch Terra 1500 Mounted on rear cargo bed
Overhead Gun n Bow Rack
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post #9 of 26 Old 11-26-2018, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boilermkr View Post
What gauge wire?
Same gauge as the main battery cable, 2 gauge. The nice thing about having a speed controller is that when contactor closes with vehicle at full stop, there is actually no current on it.
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post #10 of 26 Old 11-26-2018, 09:32 AM
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Well I was thinking of car jumper cable set, but you would have to put one clamp on the other, to use both cables in parallel.

If you make a jumper it would have to be the same gauge as what is there and other than big, I don't know what gauge it is.

Another idea if there is enough thread, is to carry a wrench, remove both nuts, move the input cable over on top of the output cable and put the nut back on. There will be a spark so hold the cable tight while getting the nut on.
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