Polaris Ranger Forum banner

Charger not flashing algorithm

14K views 62 replies 5 participants last post by  PoppyDoodle 
#1 ·
Just bought a used 2012 Ranger EV and wanted to see what charging algorithm it is using and change it if needed. However, having gone through the process of setting it up using the procedure I found in this forum (https://www.rangerforums.net/forum/polaris-ranger-ev/11469-algorithm-9.html), the 80% charge light does not flash. It just stays solid. I have read and reread the instructions and feel pretty sure I have it right. Plus, I would think that just disconnecting the MPC connector and plugging charger in to power would show me the code (without worrying about the jumpers yet). Been searching this forum, but have no idea what to do at this point.
 
#2 ·
With the MPC disconnected it should display the algo. You mentioned that the unit you bought was used that makes me wonder if the previous owner ran a hot wire back to the batteries. Try disconnecting the plug with two wires coming out of the drivers side of the charger. That should then allow you to check the algo
 
#3 ·
As for running a hot wire to the batteries, the headlights were replaced with some led lights. I found that they were running directly off of one of the batteries. Not sure if that is what you are talking about, but I had disconnected them to see if that had anything to do with it, but apparently not. I didn't see anything else that appeared to me to be custom wiring. It will probably be Saturday before I can get back to it, but I will try your suggestions.
Thanks.
 
#6 ·
As an update, with Lou's assistance, it appears I may have a bad charger and will look at getting it checked out. Attached is a picture that shows a blue wire splice. While these splices usually have two wires going in one side and one coming out, this one has two wires running all the way through. One end goes to the fuse box located above the charger. The other ends go into the plastic shield for a large wire harness. I don't know where they go from there. I am wondering if this is a modification by the previous owner or did it come from the factory this way. Does anyone else have this on their Ranger?
 

Attachments

#8 ·
Been playing with it and it appears I am not getting switched 12 volts off of my switched power relay. So someone tied it in to the constant 12 volt wire. trying to track that down now.

The white wire is what someone used to replace the regular headlights with LED headlights. One goes to a switch in the dash, and one to one of the batteries. There is a relay in the circuit and I think a terminal block was added for this. Anyway, I have disconnected them from the battery. Will deal with that later. Probably won't ever use the headlights anyway.
 
#9 ·
The wiring diagram in the service manual shows that red wires with a dark green tracer are used in the switched power circuits.

Does the orange wire it is spliced to have a tracer?

If it is a white tracer, it is used in the "fused 12 vdc receptacle" and accessory circuits.
 
#10 ·
Yes, the orange wire has a white tracer and the red wire has a dark green tracer. And it appears that I got it backwards last night. The orange/white wire is dead and the red/dg wire may be working as intended. Still checking some things. At this point, the ranger will barely move if the wheels are turned straight. If I turn them, it just sits there. 50 volts on the battery pack. This started after I removed the jumper.
 
#11 ·
OK, so on a whim, I decided to try putting the splice back in and driving it again. First, I tried it without the splice and again, it just barely crawled. Put the splice back on and it runs great. So I double checked my wire colors. R/DG and W/O. I am soooo confused! Usually this sort of thing comes down to a bad ground somewhere. Will just have to keep looking.
 
#13 ·
Thanks, somehow I missed that connection. I did check all the fuses and cleaned the tabs on them. But I will dig into the plug further. I think my next steps after that is to pull all the batteries and clean them as well as all the connectors.
Thanks so much for your help. You and Lou have been great. Will update when I have some results.
 
#14 ·
Well, after banging my head for three days, I decided to get a service manual, throw my manhood out the window, and actually read it! So now it appears my 48 to 14 volt converter is dead. I measure 48VDC on the input and 0VDC on the output. I pulled the chassis fuse to make sure there wasn't something pulling it down. Now I see why there was a jumper going between the RD/DG and the orange wire. The best price I have found so far for the converter is $396!

I am somewhat confused about 12/14 volts. I do have constant 12VDC at least in some areas. Is there another source for this? I haven't found it yet. I am contemplating my options here. Should I fork out the money for a new converter and hope I my troubleshooting is correct, or find a place to splice into another live 12VDC line? The one used before seems to be an awfully thin gauge to handle everything. Plus, I really don't like making those kinds of modifications. But $400! I am open to any recommendations for sources with the best prices.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Constant Voltage

-------------------------------------

I am somewhat confused about 12/14 volts. I do have constant 12VDC at least in some areas. Is there another source for this? I haven't found it yet.
Yes, read the manual about "Constant Voltage":

Text Diagram Design Font Parallel


I am contemplating my options here. Should I fork out the money for a new converter and hope I my troubleshooting is correct, or find a place to splice into another live 12VDC line? The one used before seems to be an awfully thin gauge to handle everything. Plus, I really don't like making those kinds of modifications. But $400! I am open to any recommendations for sources with the best prices.
I temporarily used a 12v battery to verify a converter problem on mine. You could use a smaller one. Start reading here through Post #48 and skip to Post #56 and #57: https://www.rangerforums.net/forum/...x-usa-160ah-lithium-ion-kit-2.html#post173978
 
#17 ·
Thanks, Xfaxman. Sounds like an excellent idea. I don't have a large battery handy, but I do have a small lawn mower battery. It is 12V, 3 Ah. Not sure if it is big enough, but will try it as soon as I top off the charge on it.

boilermkr, I would appreciate if you could share your source with me. Chances are pretty high that I will need it and I prefer 242 over 395! Thanks.
 
#18 ·
Flight Systems Industrial Products
Carlisle, PA
Website fsip.biz

Lou shared these people with me when i was looking for a company to repair the Deltaq charger for a friend avoid paying the 900.00 price tag from Polaris. Unfortunately the board was fried and a replacement was not available for that model. I was having problems w the dc converter in my EV and noticed they sold the Sevcon converter same model for 242.00 and ordered one. Has been working great for past few months. Got it in about 3 days
 
#23 ·
check the converter input should be 50V. Check the output should be 14V

View attachment 21037

On the FSIP website click store and click sevcon this is the one i bought 622/11111

View attachment 21039
I did check it. 50VDC in and 0 out. Plus everything between it and the diode shows 0 voltage. Everything on the other side of the diode had 12 volts which is what threw me. But I think I found that it comes off directly off of the batteries. I don't understand the purpose of this setup, but I am sure the is a very good reason! Anyway, I went to the FSIP site and ordered one. Thanks for the tip. Still expensive, but palatable.
 
#22 ·
I have been told that the the Ev’s from 2011 on don’t require the charger to be connected. I have not tried it but I believe that it is true. The reason being that from 2011 on the 48-12 volt converter is located outside of the charger. If your machine just crawls you may have a bad motor, bad motor sensor bearing or a problem with the main computer. You had mentioned that you bought the EV used, having said that you may want to pull the motor off and check for water or moisture inside
 
#27 ·
OK. I got the message! So my charger may be bad (won't display the algorithm), the DC-DC converter is bad (new one ordered), and now we are looking at the motor or computer. It was working just fine until I decided to check the algorithm. Going downhill fast (figuratively speaking, actually not going anywhere fast). :crying:
I was in customer service for 43 years and always believed in the motto: if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Oh well.
Guess I will have a look at the motor. I know nothing about them. I suppose I just try to pull it apart and see if there is any dampness or corrosion?
 
#28 ·
Well, just like you guys predicted, the motor was drenched. I got it off and the facing of the transmission had water streaming down it. When I set it on end and broke the sensor bearing end from the main casing, water puddle up under the motor. So it had a lot of water. However, everything seems to turn smooth and it doesn't really look too bad. Going to give it a few days to dry out and then do some measurements. Haven't got down to the speed sensor yet. May go back to it after dinner. But it looks like the seal cap is not going to give up willingly.
I am wondering, do I need to be concerned that water may have gotten into the transmission?

Thanks for all your help guys. This thing is turning into a bit more of a project than I expected. Took all the batteries out yesterday to inspect them and the tray. Turns out there were only five tied down bolts there and all but one of those broke as soon as I put the wrench on them.
 
#29 ·
Here is a link is saw and copied about someone in TX selling new motors for 700.00. Thats all the info i have but a new one is several thousand and a repair from polaris probably is 2. I also remember a post on here a few weeks ago that someone had their's rebuilt by someone in TX for 500.. As for as I know they were well pleased w the work.
 

Attachments

#31 ·
A friend of my brother-in-law services golf carts and has given me the names of two places here in the Atlanta area that rebuild them. I plan to call tomorrow and see what they say. That way i don't have to worry about shipping this monstrosity! That thing took me by surprise when I lifted it! If their price is a lot more than Chapman's, I will give them a call. I might take a look at that $700 deal too. That may make more sense than rebuilding.
Thanks.
 
#32 ·
Well, during the last two weeks, I have completely torn down the EV to the frame. Sent the charger off and still waiting for it to come back. Replaced the DC/DC converter. Had the motor rebuilt. By this point, I just went ahead and took out the Sevcon controller, contactor, and the throttle sensor as that was all the electronics left from the firewall back. Bagged all the connectors and gave it a good power wash from the firewall back. Must of been a 100 pounds of mud up under the floor board! Cleaned the battery cables with baking soda and brushed them down with a wire wheel. I did stop short of repainting the frame and battery trays. The trays are in moderately bad shape and probably should be replaced. Frame is rusty but still seems very solid. But that is a project for the future, maybe once this thing proves that it will work and be useful for me::|. And I removed all of the wiring modifications for the replacement headlights, so I believe all the wiring is back to original - minus headlights. I will deal with that later.

Got all of the pieces put back together today, minus the charger. Not too happy with the results. I haven't got all of the details figured out, but it seems that it only wants to crawl in Low, move only slightly better in Max, and runs OK in High unless I try to start up a (gentle) slope from a dead stop. Then I have to back down and get a running start. I had AWD/Turf mode switch out as I am trying to fix the lights in it. So I put it back in, but ran out of time to determine if it really affected the behavior. Hopefully, I can spend some time on it tomorrow. I want to make sure I didn't leave anything unplugged, but I don't think I did. I checked each battery before putting them back in and they ranged from 12.3 to 12.4. I also plugged the meter in to the 48V plug that goes into the charger and had 49V. When I ran the EV, the voltage never dropped below 48V, even when the EV was in crawl mode. So I don't think the batteries are an issue. Checked the controller's green light while it was parked and the key on and it was on solid. Did not think to look at it while driving.
At this point, I don't even know where to begin. I guess it is possible that the motor isn't right, but not sure how to check it. Well, maybe after a good night's sleep, the brain will work better tomorrow. Of course, any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
 
#33 ·
It appears my VCIM is bad. I was testing it going up the driveway and as I was pressing the accelerator up and down, the cart suddenly took off. So I pulled the throttle sensor off and checked the voltage, then checked it at the VCIM. VCIM has two 48 volt inputs, but only one 5 volt output. I don't understand why there is two of each, but I tied the two 5VDC wires together and tested it. That thing ran like a scalded rabbit. Even went right over a mound that it would not do before all of this started. I may need to put a governor on it to slow it down some! :ekk:

Anyway, I guess I need another VCIM. I keep telling myself that I really shouldn't just leave the two wires jumpered together. There has to be a reason it was made this way and I have gone this far putting everything back to right to quit now! But what concerns me is why the three components (charger, converter, and VCIM) all seem to have gone bad. Of course, I don't know anything about the history of this thing and what it has been through. But is there anything more that I should check?
 
#34 ·
Well, after all this, I got my charger back today and it still does not display the algorithm. I asked them to set it to 71 and they agreed, but I have no way to verify. Topping off the batteries now.

I have a question. What controls the regenerative braking? Before all this started, I could go down my driveway (11 degree slope) without using the brakes and it would go down very slowly. Now it seems to free roll down the hill picking up speed if I don't press the brake pedal. I have it in low and have tried all three drive modes (Turf, 2 wheel, and AWD).
 
#47 ·
Well, after all this, I got my charger back today and it still does not display the algorithm. I asked them to set it to 71 and they agreed, but I have no way to verify. Topping off the batteries now.



I have a question. What controls the regenerative braking? Before all this started, I could go down my driveway (11 degree slope) without using the brakes and it would go down very slowly. Now it seems to free roll down the hill picking up speed if I don't press the brake pedal. I have it in low and have tried all three drive modes (Turf, 2 wheel, and AWD).


This is probably repetitive so for give me for the question but about the charger not showing he set code you are in plugging the MPC connector under the driver seat by the contractor and then plugging up the AC cord to the charger to watch for the set algorithm code to be illuminated by the less after they reboot


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#35 ·
Since I haven't received any responses, I thought I would try again. Not sure if I should be starting a new thread with this or not.
Before, the EV would go down my steep drive maintaining a low speed. Since I have reassembled the machine, it now rolls freely down the hill picking up speed. While I don't really understand how it works, my understanding is that this would be due to regenerative braking. Does anyone have any idea why this is now happening? The motor has been rebuilt and I am concerned that it may still have an issue. I also believe that the VCIM is bad, but have not replaced it yet. Don't know if that has anything to do with it. I am really hoping that it isn't the Sevcon controller, about the only thing I haven't rebuilt/replaced. Any thoughts or advise would be appreciated.
Thanks.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top