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post #1 of 14 Old 08-28-2018, 10:12 PM Thread Starter
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Terminal block under front hood

Both my 2015 and 2018 Ranger XP900's have a terminal block under the hood up front with one wire attached -orange with a white stripe. The block doesn't appear to have any power going to it but is in a handy spot to use for an accessory I'd like to add that would require constant power [very low draw].


I've looked at several wiring diagrams but haven't found one that makes much sense to me so if I can figure out what the one attached wire is , I can start to peel the onion, so to speak. Any thoughts?
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post #2 of 14 Old 08-29-2018, 04:59 AM
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I think the orange with white stripe wire should be 12v key power?

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post #3 of 14 Old 08-29-2018, 07:51 AM
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Yes. that is the "accessory" or "Key-on" power wire. Generally not more than 10 to 20 amp draw depending on the fuse in the fuse box. You can finish out the bar by adding battery power and a ground to the remaining terminals with at least a minimum of 8ga wire. Put a circuit breaker in the positive wire as close to the battery as possible. Then you can start hooking your accessories directly to the bar.
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post #4 of 14 Old 08-29-2018, 09:33 AM
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I also have a new 2018 Ranger XP900 and have recently become familiar with the terminal block or “bus bar”. I hope the following information is helpful and not condescending. The bus bar has three terminals on it. My bus bar was not operable when I bought my Ranger because it had not yet been connected to the battery so I bought the Polaris “Battery Connection Cable”, Item/part # 2879388 for $36.99. https://ranger.polaris.com/en-us/shop/accessories/audio-systems/2879388/

The above cable connects the positive and negative terminals on your battery to the bus bar. Without this cable there is no power to the bus bar as I understand it. I bought and installed this cable. It was a fairly easy and quick install. The Hot or positive wire from the battery connects to the left terminal on the bus bar. That left terminal is therefore always hot. The negative cable from the battery was connected to the middle terminal on the bus bar. The middle terminal is therefore always a safe place to ground whatever needs grounding. The far right terminal is the keyed terminal which means that it is only hot when the key is turned on.

So, when I installed a horn I didn’t want it to operate unless the key was on. Accordingly, the red wire for the horn was connected to the keyed terminal on the far right side of the bus bar and the black ground wire for the horn was connected to the ground terminal in the middle of the bus bar. Similarly, my Viper Elite winch was connected to the keyed terminal because I only want the winch to operate when the key is on (and the instructions for the winch state that the winch must be wired to the keyed power).

The beauty of the bus bar is that you don’t have to find the wire from the ignition that is hot when the key is on and run several wires off of that wire for things such as your winch or horn. And, it is nice to have one location for the ground. It took me a bit to understand how the wiring worked. Electrical stuff is my weakness but I am determined to understand it so I can install my own accessories.

I hope this was helpful to you and I hope someone will correct me if I have misstated anything!

Last edited by go4guts; 08-29-2018 at 09:41 AM.
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post #5 of 14 Old 08-29-2018, 10:29 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks all for your info. I'm one step closer now with your input...
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post #6 of 14 Old 09-05-2018, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
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I ordered the wiring kit from Polaris and got it yesterday but it didn't come with any routing or connection suggestions -something I would have appreciated after laying out $37 for two pieces of cable and a couple 8 mm terminal nuts. I'll just try running it back under the unit alongside other wires to try to get to the battery. I sure don't want to have to drop the skid plate to find a route. Once I get this one figured out, I'll get another set of cables for the other unit. Appreciate the heads up and part number on the earlier post.
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post #7 of 14 Old 09-05-2018, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Hartlyboy View Post
I ordered the wiring kit from Polaris and got it yesterday but it didn't come with any routing or connection suggestions -something I would have appreciated after laying out $37 for two pieces of cable and a couple 8 mm terminal nuts. I'll just try running it back under the unit alongside other wires to try to get to the battery. I sure don't want to have to drop the skid plate to find a route. Once I get this one figured out, I'll get another set of cables for the other unit. Appreciate the heads up and part number on the earlier post.
Not sure if you saw this pdf linked in the above link or not, but it might be useful for anyone else routing that wire.
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post #8 of 14 Old 10-26-2018, 10:33 AM
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I read the directions in the pdf. So you don't connect to the battery but to the starter solenoid? Is it ok to just connect to battery?
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post #9 of 14 Old 10-26-2018, 01:25 PM
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Hi All
Thought I might add something to this. I ran the keyed wire to the 3 pin terminal block down in the service manual. This I believe has a 10 amp fuse. If you have a few things you want to be keyed you can add a relay to a little terminal block for your keyed power stuff. Most automotive relay are 40 Amps. If you add a relay the actuates when you turn on the key and have the power terminal supply power to the new little terminal block you can have 40 amps to run keyed power with very little draw on the keyed wire. I have quite a few things running off the key supply and have had no issues. Please let me know if this made any sense….

Thanks!!!
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post #10 of 14 Old 10-26-2018, 03:36 PM
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I have a 2018 900XP as well. The p/n for the correct cable kit is 2879388. Polaris calls it a Battery Connection Cable.

I did go ahead and connect to the solenoid since that is what the instructions said and it works fine.
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