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post #1 of 4 Old 10-07-2019, 08:37 AM Thread Starter
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Secondary clutch rollers

so I’ve been having a little trouble shifting my 2014 900 xp while engine is running. While doing a quick inspection on the belt and clutches I noticed the belt was glazed and the rollers on the secondary had big flat spots. Would this cause trouble shifting.
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post #2 of 4 Old 10-07-2019, 01:30 PM
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Gear selection is pretty much independent of the secondary. As long as the primary is not engaging and putting the transmission gears in motion, or under a bind while trying to select a direction or range, my guess is your selector "system" is the culprit. Lube up the selector line and the hinge points at the transmission. Getting to the handle end is not easy but the system works better if the handle moves freely. If you look under the dash you might be able to get some lube spray on the lever and the detent mechanism. Cycle it a bunch. I did mine a few years ago and it works much easier. I almost never miss a gear now.

The worn secondary rollers may account for your glazed belt. At idle, the primary is open all the way. That puts the belt in the bottom of the primary valley, riding on the "coasty roller." The secondary is the opposite. The valley is as narrow as possible and the belt is at the very top of the pulley. Except yours isn't. With the rollers worn, the pulley is not all the way closed which means your belt is likely lower in the valley and in a higher gear -as opposed to being high on the pulley like a first gear. This means your primary may be overpowering your secondary, and causing belt slip, which in turn causes belt glazing.

One other point many people overlook, regarding belt wear: Even with no problems and everything working as designed, the belt takes a beating. The belt moves into the pulley on the primary and goes as deep as the load on the drivetrain and RPM allow. It essentially "jams" itself into the pulley. Out of 180 degrees that the belt is in contact with the pulley, a portion of that of that is slipping into place or getting pulled out of place as the belt heads to the other pulley, where it does the same thing. On my 4hp Rupp Enduro as a kid, the belt had it pretty easy. Our Rangers are cranking out 62-80 hp (depending on model, I can never get a straight answer) And that belt is getting heated up and stressed to the max. No wonder your belt runs $100 to be able to handle that amount of abuse just rolling you down the road. Then imagine the stress under power in high going up a hill. This is why the manufacturers always suggest running in low because the belt and primary/secondary stress is way lower. My point is, the belt is constantly rubbing against the primary and secondary but, normal contact does not cause glazing until the belt wears so narrow that it cannot fit properly between the pulley walls.


Our pulleys are not like your power steering pulley on your car. Standard belts and pulleys see the bottom of the belt ride in the bottom of the pulley valley against the pulley "floor." The belts in our pulleys have no "floor" under them, except for when the primary relaxes at idle when the belt rests on the roller at the bottom of the valley. The rest of the time, the bottom of the belt never touches anything. The wear and stress the belt sees all comes through the side of the belt.


Remember, these Rangers have lots of horsepower but, only half of that hp gets to the wheels. Half of it is eaten up by the belted transmission. The primary pulley is designed to narrow up as the RPM increases just as the secondary pulley is designed to widen out as the vehicle speed increases. The system "works" if the sheaves all move back and forth at the right time (RPM). If one of them is not working right, the belt stress increases. Every time you accelerate your vehicle your primary is in low gear (like it is supposed to be) and your secondary is in second or third (not up at the top of the secondary pulley where it should be. That means the belt is really getting stressed in the secondary, and it may be slipping as a result if you start out under load, like going uphill.

I'd look into throwing another set of rollers in right away. Very easy to do as the secondary falls apart once you take the nut off the transmission shaft. Sounds like your secondary is no-bueno. The question your removal will reveal is: Why did the wheels stop rolling in the first place? You may have a much more worn secondary than you think now.

FYI: In my DuraClutch installation, I learned that HunterWorks takes out the new SQUARE "non-rolling" rollers in the secondary and puts back in round ones. DuraClutch knows this and it does not affect warranty. Todd at Hunterworks says they do it because the the square ones wear the secondary slot rather than simply wearing the rollers. Todd knows his stuff and he sees the insides of secondaries on all kinds of Polaris machines. Rolling "rollers" wear less than sliding blocks. Your rollers have turned into sliding blocks and they may have worn you secondary beyond repair. A new OEM secondary runs about $350. You might find someone out there who rebuilds them.


Sorry to dump all that on you. Hope it helps people better understand how our belts and pulleys work.


Ray

Last edited by CCRay; 10-07-2019 at 01:37 PM.
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post #3 of 4 Old 10-07-2019, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks a bunch for the info that helps
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post #4 of 4 Old 10-09-2019, 03:47 PM
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If shifting is hard with engine running but ok when off... It's transmission related.

Either drive clutch bearing issues (siezing or cutting into the thrust faces) or the driven clutch is misaligned.
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