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Discussion Starter #1
Hello from Sunny Arizona,
This is my first post sorry for the length but hopefully the answer will keep me from buying a rhino..... just joking.

I have a question for anyone who mind lend an ear or a hand.
Like the title says, I have a 06 Ranger 500 EFI. Recently my PDm went out... Before I installed the new one I added a inline fuse, from the recommendation of a ATV mech buddy, on the inbound power supply to the PDM. 2.50 dollars saved me another PDM. Before the PDM going out it ran perfect. I started it up and over the course of about an hour I ended up blowing 7 fuses in search of the problem. Thought i located the problem in a short but after it started up it ran like crap, mainly wouldn't idle. Went out today to work on the idle and now it will not start at all.... it is cranking but not firing up. Last time trying to get it started it blew the inline fuse again. It has stumped me beyond my knowledge. Still no idle and blowing fuses
 

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Hello from Sunny Arizona,
This is my first post sorry for the length but hopefully the answer will keep me from buying a rhino..... just joking.

I have a question for anyone who mind lend an ear or a hand.
Like the title says, I have a 06 Ranger 500 EFI. Recently my PDm went out... Before I installed the new one I added a inline fuse, from the recommendation of a ATV mech buddy, on the inbound power supply to the PDM. 2.50 dollars saved me another PDM. Before the PDM going out it ran perfect. I started it up and over the course of about an hour I ended up blowing 7 fuses in search of the problem. Thought i located the problem in a short but after it started up it ran like crap, mainly wouldn't idle. Went out today to work on the idle and now it will not start at all.... it is cranking but not firing up. Last time trying to get it started it blew the inline fuse again. It has stumped me beyond my knowledge. Still no idle and blowing fuses
I can only venture a few guess's at this one. Maybe follow & check that the positive cable is not grounding/dead shorting. Also, check the CRANK POSITION SENSOR ( lower passenger side on flywheel cover) for a dead short on the cover. That happens a lot as the wires chafe on it. Also pull the connector plugs and check the pins in the ECM (PDM) plugs for being burnt/ melted .
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I am in the process of checking all the power cables one by one for any shorts and have yet to come across one. I will check that Crank Position Sensor when I get home.
When my previous PDM went out it did leave the inbound and outbound power pin slightly burnt/melted but I cleaned them up and am getting good connections at the PDM.
I will eventually track down the short but as of now it is hit or miss if it shorts and pops the fuse. My issue now is the idle. I was able to get it to start by turning the TPS slightly but it will still not idle. Any ideas on that one
 

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I am in the process of checking all the power cables one by one for any shorts and have yet to come across one. I will check that Crank Position Sensor when I get home.
When my previous PDM went out it did leave the inbound and outbound power pin slightly burnt/melted but I cleaned them up and am getting good connections at the PDM.
I will eventually track down the short but as of now it is hit or miss if it shorts and pops the fuse. My issue now is the idle. I was able to get it to start by turning the TPS slightly but it will still not idle. Any ideas on that one
Check for EFI codes by the following :put trans in neutral/ rotate key to the on (not start) position 3 times and leave in the on position the third time. The wrench will either flash six times then 1 time for(61) end/no codes or will flash a two digit code for one or any number of codes. TPS is 22 or 21 for CPS etc. You may have a bad wire on the TPS or adjacent harness. That still doesn't explain all the fuse blowing though. One step at a time, grasshopper. The code may help. How old is fuel pump/fuel quality ? Did it set a long time in between Power Modules ?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
12. 41. 22 then 61. In that order. I am assuming these are all bad codes and not the combo to a locker. The fuel pump is no but a couple years old and fuel is ok. The ranger sat for about two weeks from the time I found the problem to the time I got he new one shipped to me.
 

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12. 41. 22 then 61. In that order. I am assuming these are all bad codes and not the combo to a locker. The fuel pump is no but a couple years old and fuel is ok. The ranger sat for about two weeks from the time I found the problem to the time I got he new one shipped to me.
T, check and see if the 12 is something else as there is no 12 code. Possibly 21 ? 41 is either (T-Map Air Sensor ) short to ground or short to ECU and the 22 is (TPS) short to ground or battery. I would check the main connection at the computer and then start checking sensor plug connections and sensor wires/adejacent harness looking for fried /broken/chafing wires. :mad: Lots of times just moving sensor wiring (jiggling) while starting or running the engine will give up the trouble spot. This sensor wiring thing is widespread as Po used to small of gauge wire . They now actually sell thousands of sensor harness repair kits for these kind of problems. Let me know what you find. You can do it !???
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Islander,
We had to head out of town till tonight but I will double check tonight on those codes and the wiring. Thanks or the info
 

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So i was able to spend about an hour tinkering with the ranger tonight and checked the wires and could not find any shorts so i started looking at the TPS and checked the volts going into it. I dont have any point of reference to compare to but they had volts. I completely took the TPS sensor off the throttle body, kept it plugged in and the ranger ran the best it has in weeks. then i reinstalled it and it would not keep an idle to save it's life. two questions: 1 does this mean the TPS is bad and needs to be replaced. 2 can the ranger be ran with out the TPS installed, just wondering.
 

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Uh-Oh

So i was able to spend about an hour tinkering with the ranger tonight and checked the wires and could not find any shorts so i started looking at the TPS and checked the volts going into it. I dont have any point of reference to compare to but they had volts. I completely took the TPS sensor off the throttle body, kept it plugged in and the ranger ran the best it has in weeks. then i reinstalled it and it would not keep an idle to save it's life. two questions: 1 does this mean the TPS is bad and needs to be replaced. 2 can the ranger be ran with out the TPS installed, just wondering.
T ,What was the other code ?:( The TPS tells the computer what the throttle angle is and cannot properly function without it. To reinstall it, so it will operate again, will require a multi meter and 2 different voltage settings. One base setting .528 volts and final voltage setting .660. Without the code information, it's really hard to know where to go from here. You could have bad wires on both the T-Map and the TPS which happens often(broken inside the insulation with the insulation intact) or possibly a bad ECU. Removing the TPS just threw a whole new spin on what could be the problem/s. I'm seeing a PO dealer mechanic in your future.....
 

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List of 2006 EFI codes

The other code was indeed a 12.
21: Loss Synchronization
22: TPS: Open or Short Circuit to Ground
22: TPS: Short Circuit to Battery
23: RAM Error: Defective ECU
25: Transmission Input: Invalid Gear
41: Intake Air Temp Sensor: Open or Short Circuit to =Sensor Voltage(ECU)
41: Intake Air Temp Sensor: Short Circuit to Ground

42: Engine Temperature Sensor Circuit: Short to Ground
42: Engine Temperature Sensor Circuit: Open or Short to Battery
45: Barometric Pressure Sensor: Circuit Low Input
46: Barometric Pressure Sensor: Circuit High Input
51: Injector 1: Open Load
51: Injector 1: Short Circuit to Ground
51: Injector 1: Short Circuit to Battery
52: Injector 2: Open Load
52: Injector 2: Short Circuit to Ground
52: Injector 3: Short Circuit to Battery
54: Engine Temperature Lamp: Open Load
54: Engine Temperature Lamp: Short Circuit to Ground
54: Engine Temperature Lamp: Short Circuit to Battery
55: Diagnostic Lamp: Open Load
55: Diagnostic Lamp: Short Circuit to Ground
55: Diagnostic Lamp: Short Circuit to Battery
56: Pump Relay: Open Load
56: Pump Relay: Short Circuit to Ground
56: Pump Relay: Short Circuit to Battery
61: All Clear: No issue
 
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