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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings all,

Please read my previous post on this vehicle first as I am pretty sure this is all related! ( Do I have this properly wired up?? ). It appears more and more likely this vehicle was in an extremely corrosive environment (driving on beaches and seawater) and a lot of "monkeying" was done with and to the wiring. Also, it had not run for several months by the time I got it. That said, the immediate previous owner to me tested all the wiring for continuity and apparently that all checked out good .... but my trouble-shooting has exposed problems of wires not attached to the correct locations or the reverse of where they should be etc. etc. so please keep this in mind in your suggestions for what to look at and in which order. Also, this vehicle is over 10yrs old (and I also suspect the snot was ridin out of it) so certain components must be nearing end of life so I fully expect I have to spend a certain chunk of change at this point in its life-cycle (I have invested in 8 brand new batteries already!!)

On with my sorry tale...
After the issue in my previous post was addressed the vehicle was running like a top for approx. a week (even took it out on a run of over 2 hrs that included stretches of long and constant climbing and it ran very well). Anyway, about 10 days ago now the vehicle suddenly decided to not shut down/ turn off when the ignition key was turned to the off position (Headlights stayed and all other drive-mode buttons were still lit up on the dash)..... and the SevCon Gen4 controller went into the 6 blinks state. I turned the key On and Off a few times, toggled the switches on the dash and even took the key out of the ignition..... no change. The other "weird" thing was that the Park light on the display above the steering wheel came on dimly lit (see photo)..... not the bright red (see photo) it is when the parking brake is engaged but barely visible. I just disconnected the Contactor harness and told myself I would deal with it in the morning.... Next morning I reconnected the Contactor harness and it turned on just fine.... Aaah, must have just been a blip I thought to myself..... so I turned it off again to test and crud... did the same thing!

Monkeyed with it and eventually found a way to get the vehicle running again by: Make sure the key is in the Off position; Unplugging the Contactor harness; Unplugging and reconnecting the parking brake sensor harness; making sure it is in Neutral and waiting approx. 30 seconds.... then reconnect the Contactor harness and turn the key to ON. Shaweeet I thought to myself... must just be a problem either with the ignition or parking brake sensor so if I just don`t touch those I can get by just leaving the damn thing on till I trouble-shoot / replace those items. Turns out I was wrong.... it takes something as simple as changing from F to R to make it trip up again. So now I just pull up the seat, do my little routine and get it going again. Sometimes I only have to do this routine once.... and everything comes back online perfectly.... sometimes it takes a dozen attempts!! Another weird thing..... sometimes after I have got it back online, that dim park light persists.... and other times it is off.... but for sure the dim park light comes on every time it trips. No real rhyme or reason to any of this behaviour. It obviously is not (only) a problem when turning the ignition key...... the controller is somehow getting some signal it does not like and going into the 6 blinks state.

Here`s another weird thing / perhaps clue to what the root issue is: I have found a fool-proof way to turn it off (without touching the ignition key or park brake) at the end of the day and ensure it comes back online first attempt in the morning: With it fully on and working, just put it in N and disconnect the Contactor harness. Here is the really interesting thing (at least to me) that happens when you reconnect the contactor harness in the morning: The first click is from the DC-DC Converter under the dash, the 2nd is from the motor (as I have it in Turf mode) and the final one is from the contactor.... this works everytime. One thing I have noticed when trying to bring it online when it has randomly tripped off during the day is that it is the final click from the contactor that gets hung-up..... something is stopping that final click and only the persistent disconnecting / reconnecting of the contactor harness eventually gets the system to make the contactor do its click.

Aaah, you say.... this all sure points to the contactor acting up. Well.... I went ahead and replaced it with a brand new Trombetta and that did not fix it!! (Could this new replacement be a dud?? Absolutely... but I don`t know how to test for that... suggestions please)

Another thing that came when I was replacing the Contactor.... which poles should the Red and Black/White wires go on that Trombetta contactor/solenoid (see wiring diagram and contactor photos). On the contactor I removed, they were plugged in opposite to the wiring diagram... that is the red wire was on the pole on the same side of the contactor (the bottom) that is connected to the controller.... the wiring diagram shows it should be the other way around. Should one get a voltage reading out of those wires if you disconnect them from the contactor?... and what should that voltage be? Should it show a positive reading when you have the red meter probe on the red wire and the black probe on the Black/white wire?

What`s the first question to always ask when something goes from running fine to broke??...What changed between when it was running like a top and this current problem??
Only one thing.... I changed the charging algorithm on the Delta-q from 73 to their tech supported recommendation of 38 to fit the type of brand new batteries I purchased: 105Ah "marine" flooded type:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...tart-marine-battery-group-size-31/ssbb/31dcmj
This was definitely my first suspicion.... am I over or under-charging the batteries?? Voltage meter showed 52.5V on the battery pack first thing in the morning when the Delta-Q is showing a green light for 100% charged.... right within parameters. So I did not plug it in to re-charge for over 3 days to see if the behaviour would go away... ran the batteries down to 1/4 capacity and kept taking voltage readings to look for spikes or dips.... never got below 50V.... kept on tripping up. I know these are cheap-ass batteries but could this really be the root of the issue?? I even did a load test of each individual battery to see if I had any duds.... all had almost the exact same voltage and load-test reading

So... I am stuck right now.... which direction should I go in now???

Thanks in advance for all the help!!





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Contactor wiring.png

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Maybe installing deep cycle 105ah batteries instead of 150-155ah golf type or what some call traction batteries would affect what you are experiencing. Not all of those issues I would think. I don’t thim
nk it matters how the brown n white and red small wires on connector makes any difference .. have you checked DC converter out put at the 3 threaded buss bar. I’ve never had one click. Should be 14v when this problem occurs. Sometimes they are sporadic. I would know where to begin about it not turning off.
 

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That's not the problem..there are TWO positives and one negative at the Bus bar ( under hood drivers side ) they check out at 12.3 vdc and 14.2 vdc respectively. Sevcon DC to DC controller as well as VICM check out ok.
 

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The theory you have about the batteries may be correct. With a total of 360 less amp rating ( 150 ah to 105 ah each battery ) may effect the controller under Serge. Sevcons are NOTORIOUSLY for being finicky.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Maybe installing deep cycle 105ah batteries instead of 150-155ah golf type or what some call traction batteries would affect what you are experiencing. Not all of those issues I would think. I don’t thim
nk it matters how the brown n white and red small wires on connector makes any difference .. have you checked DC converter out put at the 3 threaded buss bar. I’ve never had one click. Should be 14v when this problem occurs. Sometimes they are sporadic. I would know where to begin about it not turning off.

Thanks boilermkr..... What do those small red and black/white wires connected to the contactor do?? Surely there is a certain way of connecting them to the contactor otherwise why would they have documented it in a certain order in the wiring diagram??
Thanks again for the input!
 

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They energize the contactor to open or close the circuit. I think both wires come from the controller. That’s the click u hear when the key is turned on. If it is in turf mode the solenoid on the rear gear case clicks also
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Maybe installing deep cycle 105ah batteries instead of 150-155ah golf type or what some call traction batteries would affect what you are experiencing. Not all of those issues I would think. I don’t thim
nk it matters how the brown n white and red small wires on connector makes any difference .. have you checked DC converter out put at the 3 threaded buss bar. I’ve never had one click. Should be 14v when this problem occurs. Sometimes they are sporadic. I would know where to begin about it not turning off.

Thanks for the input! I went ahead and tested the buss bar with the ignition OFF and ON and got very weird results.... what do you think??
https://www.rangerforums.net/threads/what-voltage-readings-should-i-be-getting-on-the-terminal-block.49447/
 
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