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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,
New to the group and needing help. We have recently purchased a dead 2010 EV with 220 hrs on it. We were told it has been sitting for a year and just needs new batteries 馃. They said they charger it drove down the road and it died. We are wanting to convert it to Lithium-Ion but want to make sure it checks out mechanically before investing more money. It currently has XTR12-155 12Volts 155AH Deep Cycle, XTREME AGM Batteries. Its very clean looking no visible corrosion. Wires all look good. We checked each battery with a voltage meter. Each battery read between 5-5.8 volts with no load, one read 2 volts. We plugged it in. After 7 hrs of charging all batteries have come up to around 7 volts. We are going to let it charge over night then evaluate. In the mean time any suggestions of where to start to confirm the batteries are dead and that's the only problem would be great. I have read a lot of threads but my head is about to explode. Thanks in advance for your input. P. S. If there are any EV owners in Utah that would be willing to help with this it would be awesome.
 

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I recommend that you allow the Ranger EV to complete the charge cycle then see what works or doesn't work. If the only issue is the lack of range I think the Lithium conversion will be the cure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Monitor the charging voltage. AGM should not be over 15 volts or 60 volts on the pack from the charger.

If the charging algorithm was not changed it may have ruined the batteries.
The maximum charging voltage we have read is 14 volts
 

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The makers of these say you should charge at at least 10a. up top 35a WIth two strings, in parallel. The std ranger wont do that. Might be worth separating the two strings and charging separately first . bUT if you are only seeing 7v then thats saying dead cells.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The makers of these say you should charge at at least 10a. up top 35a WIth two strings, in parallel. The std ranger wont do that. Might be worth separating the two strings and charging separately first . bUT if you are only seeing 7v then thats saying dead cells.
Grumpyb 7v on a single battery? Last we checked we we getting 28v per bank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Here is what we have found thus far. After charging 16hrs uninterrupted driver side bank reads 40v, each battery reads 10v one read 7v. Passenger side reads 38v, individual batteries read around 9v. Charger under the hood has solid yellow light on AC indicator, blinking yellow light on first _ indicator. When we turned the key on we now at least have dash lights. The battery indicater has two red lights flashing back and forth on the - side. When I put it in forward or reverse and push accelerator wrench light comes on. Next we will try and charge a few batteries with old school charger to see how batteries respond.
 

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You need to achieve 12.8 ~ 12.9 Volts on each battery (this is the full charge state of an AGM battery). The Delta-Q charger is showing you that AV power is available and that it is still slowly charging the batteries at level 1 current. I am of the thought that you have at least one damaged or worn out battery in each bank, possibly more because the individual battery voltages you show are not normal for a 15 hour charge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Here are the results of charging 4 of the 8 batteries old school. First one only got up to 11.7v, 2nd 11.4v, 3rd 11.4v, 4th 10.8v. So we know the batteries are pretty much toast. Next I think we need to see if we can find at least for cheap batteries that we can put in to see if the buggy at least operates before investing thousands into Lithium-Ion. Any suggestions of where we could get some or would there be another way to test it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Also we are trying to understand the battery wire lay out and where the 12v accessory feed comes from. Does anyone have a battery diagram for a 2010? Is it the same as 2013? Thanks
 

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Also we are trying to understand the battery wire lay out and where the 12v accessory feed comes from. Does anyone have a battery diagram for a 2010? Is it the same as 2013? Thanks
2010 is different:

25240


.
Does yours have the original charger or the modified version?.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Looks like it's the modified charger, it has to spare cables coming out from the side and says model #912-4845-02B. So what does this mean? What was changed and why?
 

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Looks like it's the modified charger, it has to spare cables coming out from the side and says model #912-4845-02B.
That is the same model number as my 2013:
25241


So what does this mean?
It means when you convert to the Voltronics Kit, the charger can be reprogrammed and used.

What was changed and why?
Someone with 2010 knowledge would have to answer that.
 
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