Polaris Ranger Forum banner
1 - 1 of 1 Posts

2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, I am new to posting on this forum but have read for many years to learn about various issues that arise with Ranger EVs. I have a 2010 Ranger EV that I have been through the gamut of problems with over the years but she still runs ok. I am very far from the dealer who has been generally useless and have long given up on seeking their assistance, so I have taken it upon myself to learn to diagnose and fix the EV.

Earlier this year something happened that has me stuck in a limp or reduced power mode and I'm a bit stumped. I had a loose battery cable that did get very hot which seemingly preceded this issue. EV moves but struggles on inclines due to reduced power from the controller. Start up is normal, the led on the Sevcon controller stays solid until I shift into Forward or Reverse, at which point it blinks 6 times. As I said it moves but in limp mode.

I discovered some issues with my original sevcon controller such as cracked casing and a loose B- lug (2 out of 3 solder points broken at board connection). I figured the controller was the problem, also my Sevcon dc-dc was having voltage fluctuations, so I recently replaced both of these with new from Babbits. $2000 later still 6 blinks and reduced power. Harumph. The motor speed sensor I replaced about 4 years ago, been through 2 throttle pedals also, both of these things being faulty typically produced a 6 blink error at startup for me in the past. I have swapped the throttle assembly with a known good unit, still 6 blinks in F/R.

I've done some preliminary resistance/continuity tests on the motor and it seems to be fine. I've checked all connections for corrosion or burnout. I have modded the charger wiring to bypass the 3 spade connector long ago. So now I'm wondering if it's the motor thermistor, or if my batteries are weak. I have an aftermarket battery monitor that displays actual voltage, amps, etc. and haven't noticed any major change in voltage drop but can't rule it out. Currently running 120ah 12v AGM×8, less ah than oem I know. Eliminated a lithium pack that was failing and problematic a few years ago.

Does anyone know the proper resistance or readings to check the motor thermistor?

Any tips on why I only get this error when switching to F or R, but not in N at startup?

Are my batteries dropping in voltage too much that the controller is defaulting to this mode?

Thanks in advance for any advice, feeling a bit frustrated about the time and monetary cost of owning a Ranger EV. I feel like I have put this thing through college, and become an electrical engineer in the process.
1 - 1 of 1 Posts