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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
2010-11 Ranger EV "burned pin" Charger Mod

Saw the "Burned charger pin"topic for the early 2010-11 models.

So, I've inspected the front charger connector on my 2010 which has not yet experienced any issue.

Found that the pin was a bit burned.


So I've decided to open the Delta-q charger and see what could be done.

NOTE: As always when working on your Ranger EV, unplug the MPC connector or any related connectors to prevent any risks. Also, you must have some knowledge of that electrical/soldering stuff before attempting this mod !!

First thing is to remove the 6 screws from top cover. You'll see all the internals


Next thing is to remove the 3 screws on under the charger that are on the same side as the two plugs.


After that, you'll be able to gently lift the side panel where the plugs are located. **Be carefull because internal wires are short**


You'll now see the positive and negative 48V charging posts were the the two lower pins (from the 10 pin plug) are connected inside the charger. Note that the wires inside are a lot bigger.


What I did was to use a "t-type" plug (also called Deans connector) that is used in high amps R/C applications. I've soldered a few inches of 12 gauge wires to the round terminals that I've cut from the external plug. Then I've bolted that new plug to the original 48V posts inside the charger.


Then I've drilled a hole in the side panel for the plug to come out.


It's also a good idea to seal the hole around the wires.


Now back onto the Ranger EV. I've cut the two lower wires from the 10 pin connector. RED and BROWN wires. I then soldered a "t-plug" connector.


As you may have guessed, the rest is pretty easy. Simply plug everything back in !! As you can see, the 10 pin connector on top is not wired anymore to the two bottom red and brown wires that push the 48V charging current. Instead it's going through the much higher grade "t-plug"connector.


If you didn't mess up ;), everything should be working again.


Voilà !! You're now ready for a few mores years of, almost, trouble free charging with your early gen Polaris Ranger EV. :cool:

Now, the next thing to upgrade would most likely be the second weakest spot: 48 volt fuse holder under the seat :mad:

Feel free to comment :rolleyes:
 

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Same thing happened to my 2010 at around 80 hours...they repaired it under warranty but it took 4 MONTHS!!! Polaris told me it was on back order...have over 300 hours now and no real trouble...they told me that it was the same charging system used on new models...who knows??? Wish I had half the knowledge of a lot of you guys on here...always appreciate guidance received on this site...thanks guys!
 

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Oh.. so yours, 2013??, don't have the updated chargers ? Should I change my title .. Which years are the same ?? (sorry I'm a bit confused)

That model appeared in 2014 ??
Mine is a 2013, I just figured your modification would be better than whatever is in mine.
 

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The burned pins was an issue with the 2010 and 2011 models. I have not heard of the new type chargers having had an issue. New chargers have two pig tail connectors. The other weak link is the small fuse that is on line with the charging system. I have replaced mine with a larger fuse (same amperage) but that has larger spades. The larger spades can take the high amperage much better than the small spades used in the micro fuses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Now, the next thing to upgrade would most likely be the second weakest spot: 48 volt fuse holder under the seat :mad:
The burned pins was an issue with the 2010 and 2011 models. I have not heard of the new type chargers having had an issue. New chargers have two pig tail connectors. The other weak link is the small fuse that is on line with the charging system. I have replaced mine with a larger fuse (same amperage) but that has larger spades. The larger spades can take the high amperage much better than the small spades used in the micro fuses.
Thanks a lot lou1947.

So 2012+ should have the two pig tail connectors O0.

I've inspected my small fuse/fuse holder and in my case there was absolutely no signs of heat like black or brown color on the spades or fuse. Anyway I'll also replace it soon to have peace of mine. ;)

Once again , great info here on that forum !!! :cool:
 

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Dont just run the cables through a hole in the metal casing. Even with Silicone sealer they will eventually cut through. Always use a plastic gland. They are very cheap and seal when screwed tight.
If anyone is in the UK and needs such things I can help out.
Grumpy-b
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Dont just run the cables through a hole in the metal casing. Even with Silicone sealer they will eventually cut through. Always use a plastic gland. They are very cheap and seal when screwed tight.
If anyone is in the UK and needs such things I can help out.
Grumpy-b
Pretty good advice... but the charger is bolted to the chassis and the wires coming from the vehicle are also tie-wrapped to the chassis. I'm not sure were we can see any moving/rubbing cables ?! But I agree with you that plastic glands are a great idea or at least plastic grommets... I may do the update! ;)
 
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