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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2010 Ranger EV that I just converted to a Voltronix Lithium Ion kit. I am having two issues that may or may not be related, and I’m hoping you guys can help me troubleshoot them. When I turn on the ignition, I immediately get a wrench error light and two blinks on the Sevcon. This happens regardless of whether I start it in F, N, or R and regardless of whether the emergency brake is activated or not. I never touch the accelerator when turning on ignition, so that isn’t the issue. If I cycle through the F, N, R switch a time or two, the wrench error light clears and the Sevcon light turns solid green.

Then, when I put it in F or R and press the accelerator, the machine moves at a snail’s pace. Doesn’t matter whether forward or reverse, high, medium or low gear, 2wd, 4wd, or turf mode. It barely crawls, and the cables to the motor get hot pretty quickly.

Some background: This problem may well predate the lithium ion conversion. The buggy sat in storage for a few years and I didn’t maintain the lead acid batteries. When I last tried to use it, I remember that it was crawling very slowly. I assumed the batteries were dead and it was at that point I decided to convert it to lithium ion. I didn’t really do any troubleshooting at the time. Finally got around to doing the conversion, and now it’s still barely crawling.

Some more info: Dash lights and rear lights work fine. Haven’t checked headlights. I hear the contactor clonk when I turn on the ignition. I’m getting 53 volts on both sides of the contactor. I can push it (in neutral) easily enough, so I don’t think the brakes are locked. Haven’t jacked it up though to see if the wheels spin freely. Fuses all look fine in the front. Haven’t checked the fuses behind the contactor yet. At this point, I’m guessing it’s maybe an accelerator pedal assembly fault or faulty sensor bearing (which I think is probably inside the motor on my model) and/or possibly a bad F,N,R switch. Any ideas for troubleshooting these issues?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Some more info: I checked the three binding posts under the hood in front of driver side. Bottom post has constant 14 volts. Top post has 14 volts when ignition is on. Headlights work fine. I get 53 volts into and out of the contactor. It doesn’t drop when under load. And it makes the correct loud click noise when turned on or off. M1, M2, and M3 all show about 26 volts with ignition on. I’m not sure how to troubleshoot the accelerator switch or where to go from here. Anyone have any ideas?
 
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