Get some long leads for your meter and clip one on ground and the other on B+ on the sevcon48 volts no drop on top. Yes that's what I replaced
I read through the thread .. is your voltage still 50V at the top of the solenoid and 27V at the bottom of the solenoid when you are under load?I replaced the contactor before renewing the batteries. I charged each battery separately. That seemed to work. But a couple of trips it started all over again. So I replaced all batteries, changed speed sensor, changed FNR switch, changed charging indicator, changed dash indicator. Still can't figure it out. I ordered a new LMH switch just to see. My voltage drops from 50 to 27 when you try to accelerate. Could It be the pedal sensor?
Did everything except last step by putting wire from bottom of contactor to the top. Need more input on this. I think you right about a lemon contactor. 195.00 his hard to swallow. Is there a aftermarket cheaper?I read through the thread .. is your voltage still 50V at the top of the solenoid and 27V at the bottom of the solenoid when you are under load?
In my opinion, the pedal sensor is not the problem. The pedal sensor is what 'asks' for the speed. It can't drop the voltage of your pack. That is done by the controller trying to accelerate and the pack not supplying the current that the controller wants to use. Likely because the voltage is dropping across the contactor
Did you clean up the cable ends when you replaced the contactor? The cable ends get some corrosion ... and this can interfere with the current flow from your pack to the controller.
Take the contactor cables off, one at a time. Use a wire brush or emery cloth to knock the corrosion off the connector face, where it sits against the contactor lug. Put it back on and torque it down (don't break off the bolt though). Repeat for the other connection on the contactor. Test it and see if the problem went away
If not ....
THIS NEXT PART TAKES YOUR KEY SWITCH OUT OF THE CONTROL CIRCUIT!! THERE WILL BE A SPARK AS YOU CONNECT! MAYBE PUT THE POLARIS ON JACK STANDS FIRST!
My next step - if it was my Ranger - would be to move the cable from the bottom of the contactor to the top of the contactor (bypassing the contactor) to see if this solves your problem. Perhaps you got a dud for your new contactor? If you already cleaned up both cable connections above, you still need to clean the 'top' of the top connector, where the bottom cable will touch it. As before, use a wire brush or emery cloth to knock the corrosion off before bolting them together on the top post.
After that is done, and you have obviously verified that the polaris is not trying to move, you can try accelerating while it can't move around and see if you still see the problem. Or you can take it off the jack stands and go for a test drive.
Anyone want to chime in on whether this should be OK for a test? I have not tried this myself .. but it should be the same as turning the key to ON .. right?
So the contactor is not bad .. but you still see a voltage drop of about 1/2 your pack voltage from the top connector to the bottom? That's pretty strange!Ok, I changed the contactor again with aftermarket. Still no go. Only creaps a couple of inches. Stops, flashed 11 times, service tool comes on.
I'll try that this pmSo the contactor is not bad .. but you still see a voltage drop of about 1/2 your pack voltage from the top connector to the bottom? That's pretty strange!
Are you up for jacking up your ranger, moving the bottom contactor wire to the top contactor wire?
I changed the sensor in the front on the gear housing
They do have a rectangle look like a sensor on the very back of the motor.I changed the sensor in the front on the gear housing
What's a good time tomorrow?That’s not the one. It’s in the motor. If you want you can call me and I will try to help. Lou217 430-3101