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Premium Member
2013 Polaris Ranger 800 EFI LE White Lightning
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53 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
The only search yielded a thread in the XP1000 forum, so I started this one for us 800 guys.
I got one off eBay, came yesterday and there was no control unit, idiots, anyway, got my refund and found another one that's on the way. It's a Bulldog RS82. I already had things mocked up on paper in preparation for a 1200B. BTW the 2 remotes came with it, maybe they will work with this RS82. Anyway I prepared for this new one and thought I would post some info in hopes of any feedback before I get the unit next week. I'm in extreme northern Minnesota (Lake of the Woods) so takes forever to get anything.
Here is what I soaked in from the XP1000 thread, and my own research.
(FYI) I have a PDF of the Service Manual if anyone needs one.
23243
 

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The only search yielded a thread in the XP1000 forum, so I started this one for us 800 guys.
I got one off eBay, came yesterday and there was no control unit, idiots, anyway, got my refund and found another one that's on the way. It's a Bulldog RS82. I already had things mocked up on paper in preparation for a 1200B. BTW the 2 remotes came with it, maybe they will work with this RS82. Anyway I prepared for this new one and thought I would post some info in hopes of any feedback before I get the unit next week. I'm in extreme northern Minnesota (Lake of the Woods) so takes forever to get anything.
Here is what I soaked in from the XP1000 thread, and my own research.
(FYI) I have a PDF of the Service Manual if anyone needs one.
View attachment 23243
Let me know how it works out. I’m interested in doing the same.
 

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Registered
Joined
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38 Posts
The only search yielded a thread in the XP1000 forum, so I started this one for us 800 guys.
I got one off eBay, came yesterday and there was no control unit, idiots, anyway, got my refund and found another one that's on the way. It's a Bulldog RS82. I already had things mocked up on paper in preparation for a 1200B. BTW the 2 remotes came with it, maybe they will work with this RS82. Anyway I prepared for this new one and thought I would post some info in hopes of any feedback before I get the unit next week. I'm in extreme northern Minnesota (Lake of the Woods) so takes forever to get anything.
Here is what I soaked in from the XP1000 thread, and my own research.
(FYI) I have a PDF of the Service Manual if anyone needs one.
View attachment 23243
The picture you have pointing to the 4 wires, where is that located?
 

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Premium Member
2013 Polaris Ranger 800 EFI LE White Lightning
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53 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
If you pop the instrument cluster out, it's the back side of the Ignition Key Switch. Basically the RS82 is emulating what the key does as you turn it. So by leaching onto those wires, the auto start bypasses the Keyed switches function. I thought it was way more hi techy than that so I would have been scared to try it if not for the posts I found here. I'll be sure to document the entire project here.

23258
 

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Premium Member
2013 Polaris Ranger 800 EFI LE White Lightning
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53 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
As for it starting in gear...Great question and one I had not considered yet. Right now mine will start in any gear. Surprises me they didn't have a safeguard for that. Only way I can think is to tie into the Transmission Switch to lift the "Key On" circuit. I will have to think on this cause it would be nice in general to not be able to start in gear, cause I have done it several times already. Maybe the rev limiter keeps it from going into runaway state. I'll post a fix if I can figure one out.
23259
 

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Premium Member
2013 Polaris Ranger 800 EFI LE White Lightning
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53 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Well boy was I wrong about things. My 2013 is nothing like your examples, or what I expected. Where to start...

Ok, the Ignition switch is so strange. Like the photo I have above:

"A" - Brown - Connects to Dash Ground - Grounds switch terminals "A" to "B" and that engages the starter.

"B" - Green & White - No voltage present if the brake is not depressed and 12 volts when it's depressed. I'll return to this in a bit.

"C" - Red & White - Continuous 12 volts.

"D" - Orange - This feeds the ignition. Zero voltage with switch off, 12 volts with switch in "ON" position.

"E" and "F" are not used.

With this in mind here is how the ignition switch works...

  • Key is turned to "ON" position:
  • Connects "C" to "D" and powers up the Ignition / ECM.
  • Key is turned to the Start position (Momentary)
  • "C" and "D" stay connected and "A" and "B" are momentarily connected to engage the Starter Solenoid.
  • If you recall, when the brake is pressed "B" has 12 volts. Strangely enough grounding the 12 volts at "B" cranks the starter. You can hold the brake down so there is 12 volts present at "A" and it doesn't seem to matter. Once it starts whenever the brake is pushed you measure 12 volts at "B".
  • This means the RS82 will not work without modifications.
What has to be done is crazy but it should work. It was delayed in the mail so I didn’t get it till Saturday afternoon. It was 40 degrees out and wind gusting to 25 today, so didn’t feel like fighting with that. I won’t know for sure if this will work until I test it on the Ranger.

  • Connect 12 volts to the Bottom RS82 Relay, the one in the diagram with a Yellow and Black Starter/Crank wire. Not sure what the deal is but there is 12 volts on both RS82 relays when only one is plugged in. They must be bridged internally. (Please note the B+ is the left lug and the Load is the right lug.)
  • Top RS82 Accessory relay with White and Black wire is for like the heater blower and such on a car. It can be used. It turns off slightly when the Crank sequence starts, otherwise it's constant.
  • Connect the White Ignition #1 wire from the RS82 to the "D" Orange wire on the ignition switch.
  • Ignition #2 is not used for now.
  • Black goes to ground.
  • Brown to a test light or any light source you choose. I plan to use a cab light I installed. For example the RS82 Brown wire with the fuse holder will connect to the Positive (+) wire between the light switch and the light. That will bypass the switch and turn on the lights.
  • Black and blue Brake wire from RS82 is connected to the “B” Green and White wire on the switch. (There is going to be 3 wires in total connecting to this wire).
Here is where it gets fun. You need an RLS-125 or equivalent 5 lug automotive relay. These are easily found at the auto parts store.

  • Connect chassis Ground to Lug #85 and Lug #30 on the RLS-125.
  • 2 Connections with need to be made from the Yellow and Black Starter / Crank wire. Wire #1 will go to lug #86 on the RLS-125. Wire #2 will go to the Green and White wire on the Ignition switch.
  • Connect a wire from lug #87 on the RLS-125 to the Green and White wire on the Ignition switch. This was the 3rd and last connection to the Green and White wire on the Ignition switch.
  • Lug #87a is not used.
If my theory is valid then when the RS82 is triggered on:

  • Lights will flash.
  • RS82 Ignition #1 will power up the Ignition and the Accessory relays.
  • After a few seconds for the ignition to cycle, the RS82 will power up the Starter / Crank relay and also turn off the Accessory relay for a second.
  • When the RS82 Starter / Crank relay engages, it sends a 12 volt pulse for a second.
  • This will send 12 volts to the Green and White starter wire as well as trigger the RLS-125 and ground the Green and White ignition switch wire at the same time.
  • This should emulate the Pressing of the Brake pedal and the Grounding of the Brown Switch wire to the Green and White wire when the ignition switch is turned. This should work since it only needs to occur for a second. I did test this in the Ranger using a jumper to bridge A an B on the switch and it cranked so I hope this works.
I am going to draw up a schematic to make it easier to follow. I’ll take some picture and made a video even if it doesn’t work. It is fun and something to do for fun anyway.

PS: At this point I see no way of locking out the starter if in gear. The Gear position sensor sends a resistance variable to the ECM and that goes to the Tachometer cluster. You would need to read that somehow to kill the RS82. Way beyond my abilities.
 

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As for it starting in gear...Great question and one I had not considered yet. Right now mine will start in any gear. Surprises me they didn't have a safeguard for that. Only way I can think is to tie into the Transmission Switch to lift the "Key On" circuit. I will have to think on this cause it would be nice in general to not be able to start in gear, cause I have done it several times already. Maybe the rev limiter keeps it from going into runaway state. I'll post a fix if I can figure one out.
View attachment 23259
Thanks. I just ordered my remote starter today.
 

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Premium Member
2013 Polaris Ranger 800 EFI LE White Lightning
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53 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Was going to post some and found and error so I pulled it, stand by...
 

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Premium Member
2013 Polaris Ranger 800 EFI LE White Lightning
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53 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
My brain is racing, after I posted that PDF I got to thinking maybe I'm looking at this backwards. I had a thought and just went and tested it. I turn the key on and hold it on start. OK without the brake pressed there would be no voltage on the "B" Green and White wire at the switch. So me holding in the start position will send ground to it. Without the brake being pressed nothing happens of course. So while still holding the key in the start position I press the brake and the motor starts right up. Once running neither pressing the brake or turning the key has any effect. Starter never tries to engage. So... I can energize the RLS-125 with the #2 White and Red ignition wire from the RS82. That will give me constant voltage to the relay after the RS82 fires up. That way I can have a constant Ground to the Green and White wire on the "B" switch connection. This will be the same as turning on the switch and hold it the start position. Now I can use the Yellow and Black Starter/Crank wire, run it to the Green and White switch wire also. The when the RS82 triggers the Start relay it will send the 12 volts and be the same as pressing the brake pedal.

So does that sound any better, that would take the need for diodes out. I am still not sure about diodes anyway. I'm learning this as I go.
 

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Premium Member
2013 Polaris Ranger 800 EFI LE White Lightning
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53 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Well, guess it makes a pretty picture but it don't work. I'm sure you tech guys got a good laugh. Glad I put fuses in all the power wires, blew em. However I think I might have another trick to try... Stand by...
 

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2013 Polaris Ranger 800 EFI LE White Lightning
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53 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
We have a winner. Found all the correct wires I needed and spliced in, got too cold to work so I came in and will bench test everything. Keep your fingers crossed this!!! Snow coming tomorrow so will have to play it by ear getting out to work again.
 

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2013 Polaris Ranger 800 EFI LE White Lightning
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Discussion Starter #18
Here is the final Schematic. I apologize for making everyone endure my project. I am not much of an electronics tech for sure, as I am sure you have all noticed, but I keep pressing forward. Learning how Polaris thinks was the first big leap forward. The starting system is pretty simple but clever as hell at the same time.

You turn the key on, fuel pump cycles dash cluster fires up and so on. Now turning the key does nothing until you press the brake. Safety procedures from Polaris, so you press the Brake and now your can turn the key and she fires up.

I discovered and should have picked it up from the schematics but I was over thinking things.
When the key is in the "ON" position, there is 12 volts at "P2", the Red and Dark Brown Wire on the "IN" side of the brake pressure switch located on the master cylinder up front. When the Brake peddle is pressed 12 volts is sent to the Brake Lights in the rear and via the "Brake Splice" from the Brake Pressure switch. One of the Orange wires branches from the Brake Splice and goes directly to the Started Solenoid located under the hood on the drivers side. When the Brake is pressed you always get 12 volts sent to the Starter Solenoid. If the Key is on and the brake is pressed, you will always get 12 volts on the Orange wire at the Starter Solenoid. This is how the 12 volts gets there to energize the Solenoid and engage the Started drive. As long as your not starting it, doesn't really matter if 12 volts is there or not.

Now you need a ground to complete the circuit. Here is where the Green and White wire on the Ignition switch come in.
When the Key is turned to "Start" position, "A" & "B" are connected. Since "A" goes to ground, then turning the Key to "Start" grounds "B". Since the Green and White wire goes from the Ignition switch directly to the Starter Solenoid, the it grounds the Solenoid and the Starter drive engages. Pretty Slick aint it. Now that the motor is running, pressing the brakes just powers the brake lights.

Once you have this down you have it made.
  1. Engage the RS82
    1. Unit flashes the Parking lights circuit or test light.
    2. The 2 "Ignition" sends power up.
      1. "1" is the Send to the ECM, and connects to the Orange wire on Pin "D" of the Ignition switch. This was the easiest place to tap into it. Now the Ignition is ready.
      2. "2" is connected to Pin 30 and 86 on the RLS-125 Brake Relay I added. 85 goes to ground. 85 and 86 energize the relay and 12 volts flows from Pin 30 to Pin 87.
        1. Run a wire from Pin 87 to the Orange Wire located at the starter solenoid under the hood, and leach it on to the Orange wire.
          1. There isn't much room under there to work, but you need to untape 3 plastic wire protectors grouped together. Just pull the plug off the solenoid and start there. I'll post more pictures tomorrow. I ran a new protector for the wire. Just re tape the wires good for moisture.
      3. With this accomplished you have sent 12 volts to the starter solenoid emulating the Brakes being pressed.
    3. The RS82 Will now energize the bottom on-board "Starter/Crank" relay and try to start the motor.
      1. Connect the Output from the RS82 "Starter/Crank" relay to Pin 86 on the RLS-125. Connect pins 30 and 85 to ground. Connect Pin 87 to either the Green and White wire on Pin "B" of the Ignition switch, or if you don't want to splice into that wire just run an extra wire when you run the wire that connect to the Orange wire on the Starter Solenoid. Either way it still gets a ground there.
    4. I added fuses inline from both relays to make sure there is no funny business.
I did a quick test and it works, I just need to mount and clean things up and give it a true test. Nice thing is you see the brake lights come on and you see that as well. They will remain on until the RS82 turns off. They will only illuminate while the RS82 is being used.
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