will you be using a separate battery to drive the bulldog?Here is the final Schematic. I apologize for making everyone endure my project. I am not much of an electronics tech for sure, as I am sure you have all noticed, but I keep pressing forward. Learning how Polaris thinks was the first big leap forward. The starting system is pretty simple but clever as hell at the same time.
You turn the key on, fuel pump cycles dash cluster fires up and so on. Now turning the key does nothing until you press the brake. Safety procedures from Polaris, so you press the Brake and now your can turn the key and she fires up.
I discovered and should have picked it up from the schematics but I was over thinking things.
When the key is in the "ON" position, there is 12 volts at "P2", the Red and Dark Brown Wire on the "IN" side of the brake pressure switch located on the master cylinder up front. When the Brake peddle is pressed 12 volts is sent to the Brake Lights in the rear and via the "Brake Splice" from the Brake Pressure switch. One of the Orange wires branches from the Brake Splice and goes directly to the Started Solenoid located under the hood on the drivers side. When the Brake is pressed you always get 12 volts sent to the Starter Solenoid. If the Key is on and the brake is pressed, you will always get 12 volts on the Orange wire at the Starter Solenoid. This is how the 12 volts gets there to energize the Solenoid and engage the Started drive. As long as your not starting it, doesn't really matter if 12 volts is there or not.
Now you need a ground to complete the circuit. Here is where the Green and White wire on the Ignition switch come in.
When the Key is turned to "Start" position, "A" & "B" are connected. Since "A" goes to ground, then turning the Key to "Start" grounds "B". Since the Green and White wire goes from the Ignition switch directly to the Starter Solenoid, the it grounds the Solenoid and the Starter drive engages. Pretty Slick aint it. Now that the motor is running, pressing the brakes just powers the brake lights.
Once you have this down you have it made.
I did a quick test and it works, I just need to mount and clean things up and give it a true test. Nice thing is you see the brake lights come on and you see that as well. They will remain on until the RS82 turns off. They will only illuminate while the RS82 is being used.
- Engage the RS82
- Unit flashes the Parking lights circuit or test light.
- The 2 "Ignition" sends power up.
- "1" is the Send to the ECM, and connects to the Orange wire on Pin "D" of the Ignition switch. This was the easiest place to tap into it. Now the Ignition is ready.
- "2" is connected to Pin 30 and 86 on the RLS-125 Brake Relay I added. 85 goes to ground. 85 and 86 energize the relay and 12 volts flows from Pin 30 to Pin 87.
- Run a wire from Pin 87 to the Orange Wire located at the starter solenoid under the hood, and leach it on to the Orange wire.
- There isn't much room under there to work, but you need to untape 3 plastic wire protectors grouped together. Just pull the plug off the solenoid and start there. I'll post more pictures tomorrow. I ran a new protector for the wire. Just re tape the wires good for moisture.
- With this accomplished you have sent 12 volts to the starter solenoid emulating the Brakes being pressed.
- The RS82 Will now energize the bottom on-board "Starter/Crank" relay and try to start the motor.
- Connect the Output from the RS82 "Starter/Crank" relay to Pin 86 on the RLS-125. Connect pins 30 and 85 to ground. Connect Pin 87 to either the Green and White wire on Pin "B" of the Ignition switch, or if you don't want to splice into that wire just run an extra wire when you run the wire that connect to the Orange wire on the Starter Solenoid. Either way it still gets a ground there.
- I added fuses inline from both relays to make sure there is no funny business.
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