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Discussion Starter #1
My father and I have been using the Ranger this week, running all of the firewood tools and brush clean up tools about 300 yards behind the house.

The past summer my factory battery died and I installed a car battery. If the machine is parked, it's on a battery tender. I ran up to the house, shut it off - was in gear still rolling and keyed off. Do this all the time.

A bit later, jumped in and turned the key and nothing. Nothing turned on - like I don't even have a battery. Battery tested out fine with my charger. I checked every connection to make sure everything is tight, I looked under the hood, worked the shifter, the gas pedal the brake (in case of a safety switch). Fuses were fine. Switched them out with the spares just in case - nothing. Not sure what to do with the relays - no spares. I pulled them and gave them a tap.

Either way, I don't know what's going on. I've dealt with safety switches on my mowers, my Kubotas etc. The power cable goes from the battery, to a gold 2 lug piece. I used a 12V tool I have and applied 12V to the other lug and I got nothing. It's a nice tool to bypass items and easily apply 12V. Battery voltage is 12.8 - 12.9.

I looked all over this machine and could not find anything loose. I have less than 100 hours on the machine I believe, or less than 150 hours for sure...I would tell you but you know...no working display.

This machine just helps around the property, I'm not going off in the woods and through water etc. Just a normal day and all of a sudden it's dead weight. Pushing it wasn't fun.

Ideas??

Day 2 Update:
Threw another battery with jumper cables on it. Nothing. Put the spare battery jumper directly where the Ranger power cable connects. Nothing.

Wiggled around the back of the ignition - it wiggles a little but everything appears tight. Nothing.

What I did notice - I put my trickle charger (Battery Tender brand) on it over night. Still had a red light which means it didn't charge the battery full over night. However, when I put my digital battery (car battery) charger on the battery, it states 100% and 12.8+ volts.

So that's odd but I'm still 99% sure the battery is fine. It's only a few months old and a car battery that stays on a charger. No signs of mice anywhere.

There must be something that would kill power to the entire machine. I saw on a wire diagram a circuit breaker or something along those lines. I believe I've found it, but I didn't know if it can be reset OR if it dies, it needs replaced. Either way...no idea why it would die all of a sudden. Being a 2014, I don't have seat belt safety switches or anything.
 

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Polaris machines tend to be really finicky when batteries aren’t operating 100%. If you’re smart charger (battery tender) isn’t charging your battery then it very well could be your battery. This comes up a lot on the forums where someone thinks their battery isn’t the issue but then later tries a brand new battery and the battery was the issue the whole time.

If you’re confident all your wiring, fuses and connections are all good then it would probably only leave the voltage regulator (which I have heard can go bad) and/or the ecm.

I have the same year model as you and haven’t had this issue but I did upgrade my stock battery to a Delka etx30 400cca battery and maintain it on Ctek smart charger. It fits perfectly snug into the battery holder under the seat if you want to try a new battery.


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Discussion Starter #3
Polaris machines tend to be really finicky when batteries aren’t operating 100%. If you’re smart charger (battery tender) isn’t charging your battery then it very well could be your battery. This comes up a lot on the forums where someone thinks their battery isn’t the issue but then later tries a brand new battery and the battery was the issue the whole time.

If you’re confident all your wiring, fuses and connections are all good then it would probably only leave the voltage regulator (which I have heard can go bad) and/or the ecm.
I'm pretty confident it's not the battery since I tried a second battery this morning.

I am not sure how to test the voltage regulator or ecm. I believe i saw a wiring diagram with a circuit breaker, right before the fuse panel. Since I'm not getting any power, maybe that went?

Again, I'd like to know why.

I'm mechanically inclined and work with equipment at work but electrical isn't my strong suit. I know enough to do what I need....except for this case.
 

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with the second battery you tried, you said you just used jumper cables, thats not the same as taking the wires off the terminals of the old batteey and connecting them to a new battery. just want to make sure you tried that first.

the voltage regulator is located under the hood above the front passenger tire area attached to the frame. on the midsize models there is no mud protection here so if you dont make mud blockers then mud and water get on it and it heats up and can go bad. same thing for under the seats and infront of the rear tires, there is no mud protection and your ecm is located under the driver seat. make sure it didnt get wet or muddy.

there is lots of wirīng throughout the machine, it could have very easily been a wire rubbing bare somewhere against metal too. usually it blows a fuse first but you mention you checked fuses.

id like you to figure this out too cause i dont want it to happen to me as well. i am trying to help but its difficult when not actually physically there to troubleshoot.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I didn't swap out the batteries - my spare is a huge deep cycle that I keep on the farm for jumping things and running some 12V stuff.

I connected the jumper cables to the battery in the Ranger. That didn't work, so I went jumper cables directly to the post where the + wire from the battery goes to.

I don't even have headlights, so it makes me think a main fuse or something tripped.

I saw the voltage regulator and the ECM yesterday. Both are spotless, like I said, this thing just gets driven around my property. No mudding or offroading.
 

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I think you need to do a total battery swap first and not just a jumper cable test to totally rule the battery out. Make sure the connections are nice and tight. Like I said these things act weird when batteries are even slightly less than 100%


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Discussion Starter #10
I'm dropping the battery issue because I have a perfectly good, new battery. I tried a second battery. Even using jumper cables I should get some supply of 12V, even to just turn on the headlights. When my OEM battery was going dead during the summer, I would just connect the jumper cables and off she went.

Your continued responses of swapping batteries and everything would make it appear that the Ranger needs a perfect battery, all of the time, which is not remotely reasonable - especially on a UTV. The factory batteries are junk.

The more I look this machine over, the more I wish I didn't buy it. Everything is so cheap. Zip ties all over the place like this thing is a beater to get you to and from work. I should have stuck with my Kubotas.

I appreciate the help, but my diagnostic skills are telling me the battery is not the issue. It is electrical, but not the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Nope nothing. No electrical power working.

There appears to be a metal covered circuit breaker which I believe feeds the fuse panel. Unfortunately, I'm headed out of town for work and can't go see if my dealership has one to swap it out. If it went bad, then that would explain the sudden loss of electric.

I've had this happen on my tractors and it's always been a safety switch or something.
 

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Do you have a meter ? You should have 12 volts + on the white/red wire at the ignition switch .

It's not a interlock / safety switch because you would have headlights .
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Do you have a meter ? You should have 12 volts + on the white/red wire at the ignition switch .

It's not a interlock / safety switch because you would have headlights .
I'll have to check on Friday or Saturday. Went to use my meter and it died, so the new one is on its way. I'm out of town for work - which makes this even more frustrating because I can't work on it in the evenings.


I'm willing to bet the circuit breaker before the fuse block tripped. But I will check for 12V on the ignition switch first.

Out of curiosity - Does anyone know if I pull the ECM and Diode - could the dealership check those out to see if they are okay? I don't want to take it in....just thinking of worst case.
 

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Volt/ohm meter time.
Make sure you have a good ground at the battery to the frame.
Start checking the circuit from the battery to the fuse/relay box to the ignition and ECU for continuity.
 

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Not So Quick!

Don't be so quick to dismiss the battery as the source of your problem. I have noticed that in recent years batteries in general are different from those in the past and I have had batteries that acted the same as yours. The only way to reliably check them is to do a stress test or drain test and see what that tells you. I have had batteries go bad in just a few months and in one case two in a row.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Sorry, got busy with work and lost any free time to reply back.

As far as I can tell, the "circuit breaker" (metal outside cover) did not / was not resetting. I'm not 100% convinced I have it fixed, as I have the original still on the machine. I got it to reset, I drove it around a little bit and now it's back in the barn.

It's a long story but everything points to the "circuit breaker" that is right before the fuse panel. I don't have the Polaris part number in front of me but it was $20 and the dealer didn't have it in stock. It's a 15A circuit breaker, so I ordered an automotive one off Amazon for $3 to have a spare. Same thing, just isn't from Polaris.

The circuit breaker should be acting like a relay and I've had relays stay shut for no reason before on cars and equipment. My concern is what made it trip? I keyed off the machine, it didn't shut off on its own.

Polaris was absolutely useless for help (contacting them directly and the dealership). They were more than happy to give me a tiny discount on a new machine, of course. To make matters worse, I inquired about a price of a new machine from my dealer online and they never contacted me. Guess they are just selling them so fast this time of year that they don't want my business.

So I highly recommend going on Amazon and getting yourself a $3 15A 12V circuit breaker. You'll be glad you did.
 

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I had a similar issue with my 2015 model. It was the ignition switch. At first I was able to get it started by wiggling the wires to the switch behind the dash, but as time progressed this quit working and I replaced it. My dealer had one in stock which tells me this is not that unusual.
 

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If you don't have cluster lights on the dash, it's probably either a bad ground somewhere, or an ignition circuit problem. Is power getting to the cluster? Is power getting to the ignition switch?

Sometimes ground wires can get chaffed and/or loose. Trace them down and check for good ground connection.

Check the connections to the back of the cluster for corrosion. Put a dab of dialectric grease on the connectors and and replace.

I have had electrical problems with my Ranger 570...My wife and I were 10 miles up on the road to my mining claims and the Ranger just lost all power and died. But, unlike you, I had cluster lights and power to the ignition switch. After several months of troubleshooting it myself (disconnected every electrical system [lights, CB, compressor, etc] except the starting circuits and still nothing worked), I traced every circuit to check for ground. I finally broke down and took it to a Polaris repair shop. It took them a while to find out what the problem was. The starter broke inside and turned into a generator..that's right, so strange...it sent a low phantom voltage signal to the computer, which shut everything down. Replaced the starter and voila! She runs like a champ. Howa-bout that!
 
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