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If the above fails , locate the EFI splice junction , it will have six red / dark blue wires on one side and four red /dark blue wires on the other side , with key on this should have 12 volts positive , if no power here , you have a bad ecm '
For a test run a jumper wire from the battery positive to this junction and everything should power up .
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Okay I swapped around the fuses and no change there.

So to test the power of the EFI splice junction, how do I check the voltage there or where will it be hot at?

Also, what should I use as a jumper to run the test?

Sorry just not familiar with testing this kind of stuff.
 

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Okay I swapped around the fuses and no change there.

So to test the power of the EFI splice junction, how do I check the voltage there or where will it be hot at?

Also, what should I use as a jumper to run the test?

Sorry just not familiar with testing this kind of stuff.
With your voltmeter , put the red lead on the EFI junction post , the meter black lead on battery negative , meter set for DC volts , key on .
For a jumper a piece of #14 o 12 guage wire , from the battery positive to the EFI junction .
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Alright I checked all the relays and they all showed 12.9 volts except for the headlight relay. I made sure the lights were in the on position but did not get any voltage from the lights. I attached a picture of my fuse box cap showing the relays. Everything seems intact. Should I try jumping the headlight relay?
24981
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 · (Edited)
I did not try to jump the headlight relay yet. Is it safe to try to jump it the same way you said to jump the EFI junction? Run a 14 gauge wire from the positive battery terminal to the backside of the headlight relay junction where it enters the fuse box or where do I need to run the wire to?

And yes, my headlights are ran off the key switch.
 

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The lights are fed from a seperate junction , it will have four red/yel wires on one post and one red/yel wire on the other post , five wires at that junction , put the temp jumper wire from battery poitive to the thiis junction and you should have lights .
How did you get power to the relays , by using the jumper from battery ?

If so , did you try to start it it ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
I turned the switch to the on position and then checked the voltage of each of the relays with my voltmeter. The Fan, EFI, Fuel Pump, Chassis and the optional EPS relay all gave me a voltage of 12.9. The headlight relay did not give me any voltage at all. Does that make sense?

I have not yet tried to jump the headlight rely to start it but I’m assuming that’s what I need to do to see if the headlights and taillights come on and if it starts. I’m assuming my headlights relay should read 12.9 volts as well?
 

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I turned the switch to the on position and then checked the voltage of each of the relays with my voltmeter. The Fan, EFI, Fuel Pump, Chassis and the optional EPS relay all gave me a voltage of 12.9. The headlight relay did not give me any voltage at all. Does that make sense?

I have not yet tried to jump the headlight rely to start it but I’m assuming that’s what I need to do to see if the headlights and taillights come on and if it starts. I’m assuming my headlights relay should read 12.9 volts as well?
Is this with the jumper wire from battery to EFI splice ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
No, I haven’t used a jumper wire to anything yet. I only checked the voltage at each of the relays. Does that make sense?
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Sorry but just wanting to clarify, run the jumper to the EFI splice or the headlight relay splice? The EFI splice has 12.9 voltage from the battery but the headlight relay has no voltage.
 

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If the EFI splice has 12 volts , it should start ?
Did you measure voltage from the headlight splice , it should read 12 volts with key on ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
The EFI splice is showing 12.9 volts. I just checked it again but my ranger won’t start or even try to turn over. The EFI relay simply just buzzes when I turn the key to start it.

The headlight splice is not giving me any voltage reading when the key is on.
 

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On the ignition switch , the brown wire on the end of the connector is the keyed ground wire for the starter solenoid , run a wire from ground or battery negative to this brown wire and see if it starts with the key . .
{ You can also run the battery negative to the ground splice junction in the dash area , it has four brown wires , three on one post , one on the other post . }

Will check back in the morning ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Update: I tired a jumper cable from the battery positive to my Headlight relay and my taillights came on, AWD/Differential Lock switch lit up, my winch worked and my LED bar worked. However, my headlights did not turn on. I have extra bulbs that I even tried to make sure but no luck. So I certainly am having an issue getting voltage to my headlight relay.

I haven’t tried the ignition switch yet. So basically I can remove the brown wire from the back of the ignition switch and then run a wire from the negative battery terminal to where the brown wire was to see if it starts?
 

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Run the jumper from battery positive to the headlight splice junction .

For the ignition , use the second option above , from battery negative to the ground splice in the dash area .
 
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