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For the ignition , there should be a splice junction with four brown wires , from that junction to battery negative
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Alright I’m not going to lie. A little lost on what the ground on ignition switch could be causing this problem. Wouldn’t the ignition switch not work at all if that was an issue? And honestly I just tied the jumper ground into the grounds that attach to my frame by the battery. Couldn’t find where the splice junction was at. Should I start unwrapping all my wire that are bundled up? Hate to start getting into all that if I don’t need to since it is all neatly wound up together.
 

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Busted - lol I know it should have started unless the keyswitch is bad - not likely .

Everything is leaning towards your ECM is bad , that's where the ignition switch gets the negative from { it switches the negative wire to the solenoid , the solenoid gets the poitive from the brake light circuit - that's why you need to press brake to start . }

If you can't find the negative junction with four brown wires around the dash area go right to the key switch .

On the key switch plug , the brown wire on the end , skin the insulation back and wrap a wire around it and connect it to battery negative and it should now start
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
I skinned the brown wire going to the ignition switch and ran a jumper from the battery negative to where I skinned and got nothing. Same thing as before with the check engine light and buzzing EFI relay when I turn the switch.
24988
24989
 

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The brake lights are working still ?

Leave the brown wire on and run another wire from the battery positive to the EFI splice junction as you did before . and try it
 

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unplug the key switch and on the harness / plug - jumper the brown wire and green wire next to it with a paper clip , should crank over
 

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put your voltmeter on battery and try it again , does voltage stay at 12 volts when trying to start with jumper ?
 

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okay , we'll back up and recheck things , unplug key switch , with you meter on ohms / continuity , check the switch is working in crank position , meter leads on the pins where the brown and green wires go , turn key to crank , should be closed / zero ohms ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Okay I unplugged the switch and the ohms at the brown and green were around 20. I think plugged the switch back in and turned the key to the on position and the ohms read about 5. Unable to crank it and get a ohms reading due to doing this by myself.
 

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key switch checks ok , plug it back in , leave extra wire on brown wire .
Set your meter to dc volts again , black meter lead on battery negative , unplug the two wire connector on the starter solenoid , put the meter red wire into #2 on the plug { harness end , orange wire } turn key on , press brake pedal and you should have 12 volts there - brakes lights should light up also .
 

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The solenoid orange wire comes from the brake splice , it should have four orange wires on two posts , put the meter red lead on that and try again to see if you're getting 12 volts there
You're sure you had the red probe making good contact in the plug ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
I checked again and still nothing there when I turn the key. I’m not going to lie, I don’t have all the wiring exposed where the brake splice would be. Seems like maybe too much for me to get into honestly. So if I’m getting nothing at the solenoid plug, then what could that possibly mean?
 

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The brake splice has four wires , one of them comes from the brake switch supplying 12 volts when the brake pedal is pushed , one wire goes to the fuse center for the brake lights , one goes to the ECM and the fourth is the orange wire at the starter solenoid . If the brake lights are working that means there has to be 12 volts at the brake splice junction , you're not reading power at the solenoid plug would tell me the wire between the brake splice junction and solenoid plug is bad ?

Next thing to try is skin back the orange wire at the solenoid plug and wrap a wire around it and run it to battery positive , plug it back in and try with the key switch again . No need to press the brake when cranking if you do this
 
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