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I have a 2005 700 XP that got low on oil and lost oil pressure and had a lifter collapse. I took it apart, inspected the cam and crank bearings, the other push rods, lifters, rockers, etc..all looked good. I replaced the lifter and push rod that was bad and put it back together. Primed the oil pump, started it up and it idles just fine, but as I start to rev it up, it gets very rough, sputtering, popping. I thought maybe one of the lifters and push rods wasn't getting oil and opening one of the valves far enough, but I've ran it a little with the valve cover off and I have oil flow up through all the rods. If I keep accelerating past the rough area, it seems to run just fine.

I replaced the TBAP harness and wires a few years ago with a beefier aftermarket one and have had no issues with that since, and when I wiggle the wires around, I don't hear any change in RPMs or anything like it did before when I had worn wires.

I thought I maybe damaged some of the TPS wires when I took it apart, but those all look good as well.

I sprayed carb cleaner around all the intake boots to see if I have a leak, but found none. Fuel pressure is 39. I also don't have any error codes.

What can I check next?
 

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2020 Polaris Ranger 1000 Premium SOHC
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Sounds like the TPS.
Test the yellow wire with a multimeter. If I remember correctly it should read out right at .710 vdc key on, engine off
You obviously want to be careful when you puncture the wire insulation, and patch it back up properly.
I am trying to recall this from my 07 so if I can remember more about the process I’ll add to it. Sorry, the TPS was the root of my problem with the exact same symptoms but that was years ago
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sounds like the TPS.
Test the yellow wire with a multimeter. If I remember correctly it should read out right at .710 vdc key on, engine off
You obviously want to be careful when you puncture the wire insulation, and patch it back up properly.
I am trying to recall this from my 07 so if I can remember more about the process I’ll add to it. Sorry, the TPS was the root of my problem with the exact same symptoms but that was years ago
I haven't tested it yet, but just out of curiosity, how does the TPS get "out of adjustment"? Its my understanding that they set the screw at the factory, and then it shouldn't ever have to be changed/adjusted, correct?
 

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I haven't tested it yet, but just out of curiosity, how does the TPS get "out of adjustment"? Its my understanding that they set the screw at the factory, and then it shouldn't ever have to be changed/adjusted, correct?
What year model are you working on here? You are correct about not adjusting/changing the adjusting screw. Somewhere around post 2011 models, you are not supposed to touch the adjusting screw.

I would check the wiring. Sounds like some of the wires may be broken down inside the wiring insulation. Pull the wiring out of the loom from the sensor back to the main trunk. Hold the wire at the sensor end and give it a good pull. If the wire is broken down, the insulation will pull apart.
 

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What year model are you working on here? You are correct about not adjusting/changing the adjusting screw. Somewhere around post 2011 models, you are not supposed to touch the adjusting screw.

I would check the wiring. Sounds like some of the wires may be broken down inside the wiring insulation. Pull the wiring out of the loom from the sensor back to the main trunk. Hold the wire at the sensor end and give it a good pull. If the wire is broken down, the insulation will pull apart.
Its a 2005. I took the throttle body off and was going to clean all the connections and made the mistake of taking the TPS off. Shortly after that, I decided to look at the wires still on the machine (from the male plug back to the main trunk, and sure enough, several of them are worn through and a little frayed in several spots, so I cut them off and soldered new wires in..

My local repair shop said those sensors go bad and since I have to bring it to him to get the TPS set correctly anyways, he was going to test it and make sure its good. I'm guessing once he gets it set again, it will run like normal.

My only slight concern at this point is while tracing the purple wire back to the trunk, I made it all the way back to the splice where the TPS wire Ts into the trunk. One of the frays was fairly close to the T, so I had to cut some of the sheathing away so I had enough wire for my solder connection, and I'm hoping that T connection is all still good. If it doesn't run like normal, I'll know that's mostly likely my problem, and it will just require a little more soldering!
 
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