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2017 Ranger Crew Northstar 6" lift 15" wheels with 32's
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I blew another driveshaft on my polaris and I let is sit for 2 months until the shaft got changed. Also replaced front wheel bearings and A frame bushings.

When I got it back the machine has a hestitation on acceleration issue. If I accelerate normally from a stop the engine kind of cuts out. The radio reboots too for what it is worth.

If I baby it just a little it works ok and I can get it up to speed and it will run no problems. If I hit the accelerator pedal too hard when I am underway the same thing happens.

It didn't do it before I let it sit for a couple months. But it will cut out consistently if I go over what throttle it wants. It isn't a flat out accelleration but a quick start or a quick pickup underway will cause the RPM to go right down and the radio reboot. It is still running but I have to mildly baby it back up. It seems to be doing it too consistently on the acceleration curve to be water in the gas or something. But the loss of power is similar to what water in the gas might do.

Any ideas what could be going on? Any help would be appreciated.
 

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2017 Ranger Crew Northstar 6" lift 15" wheels with 32's
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It is a new Odyssey type battery but maybe I should put it on a charger. I had to switch out the connector so maybe it isn't making good contact. I will check into that. It makes sense thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So far the fuel pressure was at 40 I think it is supposed to be at 58. It was getting good voltage to the fuel pump. Will see how it runs after a new fuel pump assembly and fuel regulator. The plugs look like it is running a little lean so maybe this is it. 🤞
 

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2017 Ranger Crew Northstar 6" lift 15" wheels with 32's
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Looks like the fuel pressure was the problem. Started a lot better also. I'm back in business. Thanks for the help.
 
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2017 Ranger Crew Northstar 6" lift 15" wheels with 32's
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well I spoke too soon. I took it out for another drive at lunch and it is running better. But still, if I am in the performance mode a/c and radio and fan on, and I am going along at 20 mph and hit the throttle too hard it dies down and I have to take my foot off the throttle for it to "reset" and have throttle response again. It never totally dies. Just rpm drops off and speed with it. Also, on my final approach to the garage there is a small hill.20 yards of medium incline. and I stopped at the bottom and it would not let me throttle up at all to even mover toward getting up the hill. I moved the selector from 2 wheel to 4 wheel drive and that finally allowed me to accelerate a little to get up the hill.

The problem is repeatable between 20-30 MPH. Normal operations seem to work but a little over normal foot on the throttle and it cuts out still. radio reboots not sure what else.

This is a picture of the final hill it wouldn't let me accellerate above idol to go up in 2 wheel drive:

Let me know if you guys have any thoughts.
Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Plant
 

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It really sounds like like an electrical issue.

I know the battery is new. But would have it load tested. The ecu is very sensitive to low Amp and volts.
Also... look at your volts on your display as this is happening.

I've heard of one of the alternator wires rubbing through back at the air filter box.

So....if you had it on a charger for a while recently. It ran good for a while and is now acting up again???
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It really sounds like like an electrical issue.

I know the battery is new. But would have it load tested. The ecu is very sensitive to low Amp and volts.
Also... look at your volts on your display as this is happening.

I've heard of one of the alternator wires rubbing through back at the air filter box.

So....if you had it on a charger for a while recently. It ran good for a while and is now acting up again???
It does sound electrical. It seems to be worse after it warms up so that may have created the illusion that the battery charging did something. The fuel pump seemed to help, it is not doing it as easily as it was or as often. I will have to look at the grounding bar area and maybe clean up all the connections I can see.

I will check the alternator wires also.

Low current makes sense and might create a reset reboot kind of effect.

I will check the battery too or maybe I should just put a larger amp hour battery in there.
 

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You should monitor the voltage for awhile. If the display doesn't show it, I'd recommend adding something like the following. You should see 12-13V at rest and 14-15V while running. From idle to full throttle, the voltage should go up a little bit but it should never go above 15V.

 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You should monitor the voltage for awhile. If the display doesn't show it, I'd recommend adding something like the following. You should see 12-13V at rest and 14-15V while running. From idle to full throttle, the voltage should go up a little bit but it should never go above 15V.

How do you get the voltage from the usb ports? I have a port is there a meter that connects or maybe a voltage dongle?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I found a little USB meter and one for the cigarette lighter that should work correct? Or would it be better to wire something in somewhere?
 

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I like the type similar to the one I posted, you drill a hole in the dash to mount and then they are powered with the key on wire. This gets you the battery monitor plus the USB charge ports. The other option is to use the battery monitor built into the original factory display if it has it available. Using a multi-meter is usually not feasible while operating the vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I like the type similar to the one I posted, you drill a hole in the dash to mount and then they are powered with the key on wire. This gets you the battery monitor plus the USB charge ports. The other option is to use the battery monitor built into the original factory display if it has it available. Using a multi-meter is usually not feasible while operating the vehicle.
Ok, I will check on it. I am not sure if my factory display has it or not. Mine is a black and white LED display from 2017. It isn't up there when I start it. Does it require changing the mode to get to the voltage portion?
 

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Ok, I will check on it. I am not sure if my factory display has it or not. Mine is a black and white LED display from 2017. It isn't up there when I start it. Does it require changing the mode to get to the voltage portion?
Depends on the display I think, but if you cycle through the options one might be the voltage. I know the displays on my ACE and RZR have it (2014 and 2015), not sure about the RGRs (2021 and 2022) they have different displays and I don't recall if it's there. It should also tell you in the owner's manual I'd think.
 

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2017 Ranger Crew Northstar 6" lift 15" wheels with 32's
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I did find the mode button and got to a voltage read out. for the first 5-10 minutes it was reading 13.4 to 13.6 never above 13.6. Then it was going between 13.1 to 13.4.

Today it started cutting out when I was going steady with no acclerator. Although, One time we hit a bump and it cut out. The voltage doesn't seem to vary when it cuts out. Just the radio and I have to let off the throttle to get it working again. I had the problem of it basically not willing to go anywhere on a really small incline.

I will check for loose wires tomorrow or Sunday but it might be a trip to the dealer for this one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
It does. The likely candidate is down by the frame and hard to get to. But there are a couple areas of stacked lugs on the plus and minus sides I will have to take apart and polish up.
 
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