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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My meter is blank. I've searched but only find posts about resetting it after batteries have had a full charge. Mine is completely and inexplicably inoperative all of a sudden. There is no light nor any display. The fuse is good. After a short ride with the batteries down to 86%, I plugged in the BatteryMinder (I usually plug it as a maintainer after a full charge) rather than the IQ this time for the heck of it and now find the meter inoperative. That's the scenario.

Troubleshooting advice, please as OEM replacements are $$$. I'd consider an inexpensive aftermarket meter but also want to have the Polaris meter operational.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
My EV is 2015 with the original lead/acid batteries, which are still serviceable for my light use.
First, how to remove the meter from the dash? I see and squeeze what appear to be "tabs" for the meter housing behind the dash, but it does not come out with moderate force - I don't want to break the mount.
 

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It’s hard to get out. Keep pressing the tabs and rocking back and forth. Check the 2amp fuses on each side of the batteries with single pink wire. One is passenger side rear battery other driver side middle battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
BATTERY DISCHARGE INDICATOR (BDI) - diagnose why gauge is blank (no light-no characters). Want to inspect/test all the wiring and connections to rule out the gauge itself.
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Gauge Removal instructions won't do to get it out - had wife put outward pressure from inside cab while with plastic pry tool while I pried one of the tabs out with a small screwdriver. Forget about squeezing the top and bottom of the retainer to loosen pressure on the tabs.
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BDI: 2 amp fuses: as BoilerMaker noted, there are two (passenger side rear battery other driver side middle battery) - both are intact, meter tested. Where do those leads go to finally connect to the gauge (female plug)? I cannot find the path from these to the gauge. These wires must not connect directly gauge plug since they are pink color and are much larger than any of the four wires that end up becoming the BDI female connector plug.
The BDI cable female connector has four wires: red (R), red-white (RW), white (W), and brown (Bn)
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WIRING DIAGRAM:
Both BDI fuses are connected to the respective batteries through 2 amp fuses. It would be good to inspect/test where these wires as go from here all of they way to the gauge.
The issue is that I do not find in any of the diagrams where these two wires go beyond this page. There is verbiage on the flow arrows at page bottom (hard to read in the electronic copy; sheet 1..diode..?), but cannot find any wiring relative to the Battery Discharge Indicator, i.e. where they lead from the harness they become part of to, ultimately the 4 pin (BDI cable, which then connects to the gauge.
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I don't believe any of the 2 amp fuses in the fuse box have anything to do with the BDI gauge - they were all intact.

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I don't believe the auxiliary terminal board has anything to do with the BDI gauge - the 14 & 12 voltages of the switched and constant power tested OK.
BTW: what is LSV? Does the B2 fuse (battery to terminal block) also protect the BDI gauge? Regardless, it is intact.
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I don't see a listing for any codes relative to the BDI gauge on page 8.14 of the service manual, so not this issue but I'd like to know what connector/software are needed to access fault codes. Is a standard ODB2 reader good enough or is this a special reader specific to Polaris?

DIGITAL WRENCH DIAGNOSTIC PORT:
The Digital Wrench diagnostic connector is located under
the hood (1). Connect the communication cable to the
diagnostic connector. Start Digital Wrench and follow the
on-screen instructions to test various systems, sensors,
and functions.
SYSTEM TROUBLE CODES
The Motor Controller stores trouble codes in memory.
Trouble codes are stored when a sensor reading is
outside of the “plausible” range for normal operation. For
common codes see Indicator Lights, page 8.14 or for a
complete code list see Digital Wrench Trouble Code List,
page 8.38.
When a fault occurs, it is recorded in the “Logged Faults”
memory. If a fault is currently active, the code is also
recorded in “Current Faults” memory and remains until
the fault is no longer occurring. If the problem is
corrected, the “Current Fault” is erased, but the code
remains in the “Logged Faults” memory until it is
manually deleted (cleared) using Digital Wrench
software. Logged trouble codes remain even if the
battery power is removed from the Controller.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
How to test the gauge? I do not see any resistance values for the four wires in the male connection should be tested with each other, nor ohms values for the four wires in the white, female connector. At a minimum, to test the gauge light, which wires can be used and what external 12VDC source battery can be used to see if the light will come on?
Unless a member has a remedy I believe my gauge is defective. If so, does anyone have one?

25654
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

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Besides eBay it’s your only option if you want to replace it with OEM. If you are K with a non OEM accurate SOC I have used these. They work well and there are several types. These are shunt type halls effect current sensors. They operate by measuring flow of current not by amount of volts. This is a cheap simple one off Amazon or eBay. I have installed 5-6 of them and so far good results. There are other more expensive ones mainly they give more info by Relion and Battle Born lithium battery
they work on any type battery
25657
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank you, I will research these OEM alternatives and likely ask you about installation instructions going forward. Is the Aili one the same size as the OEM to fit same location and can I modify the existing wiring to work with it?
I sure would like to rule out my existing gauge beforehand.
 

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How to test the gauge? I do not see any resistance values for the four wires in the male connection should be tested with each other, nor ohms values for the four wires in the white, female connector. At a minimum, to test the gauge light, which wires can be used and what external 12VDC source battery can be used to see if the light will come on?
Unless a member has a remedy I believe my gauge is defective. If so, does anyone have one?

View attachment 25654
How to test the gauge? I do not see any resistance values for the four wires in the male connection should be tested with each other, nor ohms values for the four wires in the white, female connector. At a minimum, to test the gauge light, which wires can be used and what external 12VDC source battery can be used to see if the light will come on?
Unless a member has a remedy I believe my gauge is defective. If so, does anyone have one?

View attachment 25654
I have found some of the wires associated with the gauge in my service manual. As you showed in the picture of the connector: BN is ground, RD/WH is 48 VDC Switched from key, RD is a 48 VDC that drives the SOC meter by signaling voltage values. WH is 12 VDC. RD/BK is labeled as power. Hope this helps.
 

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It’s a bit larger and does not connect to any existing wiring. As the pic diagram shows it has a shunt or brass block that connects to the negative battery. A short cable is used to connect inline with the neg cable that goes to controller
 

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WIRING DIAGRAM:
Both BDI fuses are connected to the respective batteries through 2 amp fuses. It would be good to inspect/test where these wires as go from here all of they way to the gauge.
On our 2013 the wires don't go to the gauge, they go through diodes that may be hidden in the wiring harness, then to the fuse box.

I don't believe the auxiliary terminal board has anything to do with the BDI gauge - the 14 & 12 voltages of the switched and constant power tested OK.
BTW: what is LSV?
The 2 amp fuses and pink wires supply the constant power.
LSV is Low Speed Vehicle. It came with turn signals, horn and emergency flashers.
Can't help with your meter since it is different than the 2013 that we have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have found some of the wires associated with the gauge in my service manual. As you showed in the picture of the connector: BN is ground, RD/WH is 48 VDC Switched from key, RD is a 48 VDC that drives the SOC meter by signaling voltage values. WH is 12 VDC. RD/BK is labeled as power. Hope this helps.

I have found some of the wires associated with the gauge in my service manual. As you showed in the picture of the connector: BN is ground, RD/WH is 48 VDC Switched from key, RD is a 48 VDC that drives the SOC meter by signaling voltage values. WH is 12 VDC. RD/BK is labeled as power. Hope this helps.
Jack, yes I'd like to test the gauge. I have only four wires in the Molex connector, which plugs into the gauge. Including your data, they are:
BN = ground
W = 12 VDC
R/W = 48 VDC (key switched).
R = 48 VDC (drives state of charge meter by signaling voltage values).
I do not have a R/BK wire (labeled as power?). Isn't power = W wire?
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...so to at least test if the gauge illuminates, I run + and = leads from this moto battery to the corresponding W [(12VDV looking at connector from front is top/left position)] and BN [(neg/earth/ground, on bottom/right position) male connectors on the back of the gauge, right?

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
On our 2013 the wires don't go to the gauge, they go through diodes that may be hidden in the wiring harness, then to the fuse box.


The 2 amp fuses and pink wires supply the constant power.
LSV is Low Speed Vehicle. It came with turn signals, horn and emergency flashers.
Can't help with your meter since it is different than the 2013 that we have.
Thank you, Xfax, that explains the path from the two, + battery wire connections [(with 2 amp integrated fuses) for constant 48VDC power], through diodes (what is their purpose? do they lower the 48VDCs to some manageable VDC, like 2VDC?), then to the fuse box at the LSV 2amp fuse, correct?
.....also, it is only the spare, nonactive fuses that have the orange rubber on the contact legs, right?
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Thank you, Xfax, that explains the path from the two, + battery wire connections [(with 2 amp integrated fuses) for constant 48VDC power],
Constant Power is 12VDC from the first battery in each series string.
through diodes (what is their purpose? do they lower the 48VDCs to some manageable VDC, like 2VDC?),
A diode allows current flow only in one direction.
then to the fuse box at the LSV 2amp fuse, correct?
It goes to more fuses.
.....also, it is only the spare, nonactive fuses that have the orange rubber on the contact legs, right?
Right, they are spare fuses.
 

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I think you will be safe to check for DC voltage on the wires going into the SOC meter (Battery Discharge Meter) at the connector. Turn the key to the on position; then with a multimeter set to DC Voltage check to see if the 12 volt is present. Positive probe from Multimeter in the W connector and Negative probe in the BN connector. Next with the key in the on position and the multimeter set to DC voltage (and if equipped; to more than 48 volts) Positive probe in the R connector and negative in the BN connector. I am not a technician so be aware!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Constant Power is 12VDC from the first battery in each series string.
A diode allows current flow only in one direction.
It goes to more fuses.
Right, they are spare fuses.
Thank you. A couple of more things:

1) then to the fuse box at the LSV 2amp fuse, correct? Your reply: "It goes to more fuses."
Which other fuses to check?
Simplistically, I thought the end point fuse in the fuse holder is 2 amp, labelled LSV, which then powers the gauge? I don't see the path in my electronic copy of the service manual diagrams, which shows the battery discharge meter connections.
2) Your reply: "Constant Power is 12VDC from the first battery in each string. "
Thanks for that - I'm learning and can see the first battery (#1 on left and #1 on right) in each series string. So the OEM gauge actually displays the charge information (+12VDC) it receives from from the 1st battery in each series string, right?
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BTW: I first saw my gauge was blank after charging with the BatteryMinder, yet from my limited knowledge that could have ruined the gauge (if the prob is the gauge) since I've used that charger intermittently/interchangeably with the IQ charger. Although this time the discharge was 86% and I used the BatteryMinder rather than waiting for a full charge with the IQ.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I hope I'm not "muddying up" the waters, but the information all in one post may help someone else with the same issue going forward, who is satisfied with the Polaris gauge and wants to keep the EV original.
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BoilerMaker, if you see this please keep in mind that I may end up using the type of gauge you sent information about. ---------------------------------------------
This is my inquiry to Curtis Instruments, who supply Polaris with the gauges:

Sent: Monday, August 16, 2021 6:12 PM
To: '[email protected]'
Subject: Curtis model 3003R-57X-0009 replacement or substitution_battery discharge gauge/hour meter
Hello,
My Curtis battery discharge and hour gauge (model 3003R-57X-0009) is inoperative (blank display with no characters). This is on a 2015 Polaris EV (product number is 4015096). I’d like to test it and/or replace it as follows:

1) How to test the gauge to confirm whether the gauge is defective or not. It may be that the gauge defective since all three of the 2amp fuses protecting it are intact (one on each of two battery packs running through diodes up to the main fuse box). There haven’t been any untoward electric issues when charging the system or in using the UTV. The gauge is inexplicably blank after disconnecting the charge cable after a normal charge cycle. All of the other systems in the EV perform as usual.

2) If defective, replace it with the same Curtis 3003R-57X-0009 or substitute it with a generic version from your product list, i.e., one with the same functionality and compatibility with my EV.

BTW: how can a new gauge maintain the correct hours already on the clock. Perhaps this value is stored elsewhere in the system and will be made available to a replacement gauge.
This is my existing gauge:
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These may be a generic substitutes from Curtis:
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Unsure if the operating voltage is high enough. The EV at full charge is 51.1 VDC for gauge to read 100%.
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No hour meter on this one:
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I think you will be safe to check for DC voltage on the wires going into the SOC meter (Battery Discharge Meter) at the connector. Turn the key to the on position; then with a multimeter set to DC Voltage check to see if the 12 volt is present. Positive probe from Multimeter in the W connector and Negative probe in the BN connector. Next with the key in the on position and the multimeter set to DC voltage (and if equipped; to more than 48 volts) Positive probe in the R connector and negative in the BN connector. I am not a technician so be aware!
Ha, Jack, you know much more than I at this stage of life.
I will take those readings (it makes sense) as soon as there is a break in the rain to get up to the barn. That storm, Fred, around Mobil is bringing much rain up here to the mountains of Western NC. Additionally, to see (pun) if the gauge illuminates, I think I'll use my spare 12VDC motorcycle battery and connect to the W (power) and BN (ground) reciprocal ports on back/top of the gauge...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Mr. Jack, I like seeing your name. My name is Joaquin and when we immigrated from Spain it was too difficult and unknown at the time so Jack was, and is, to select people from back in-the-day, my name too - a simple and strong name. BTW: my surname begins with A too - something about a doppelganger happening here.
 
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