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Thank you. A couple of more things:

1) then to the fuse box at the LSV 2amp fuse, correct? Your reply: "It goes to more fuses."
Which other fuses to check?
"Indicator", it powers the Charge Status Indicator on the 2013 dash, Don't know what it does on a 2015:
25681

Simplistically, I thought the end point fuse in the fuse holder is 2 amp, labelled LSV, which then powers the gauge? I don't see the path in my electronic copy of the service manual diagrams, which shows the battery discharge meter connections.
I don't think it would power the gauge, but that is just my guess.
2) Your reply: "Constant Power is 12VDC from the first battery in each string. "
Thanks for that - I'm learning and can see the first battery (#1 on left and #1 on right) in each series string. So the OEM gauge actually displays the charge information (+12VDC) it receives from from the 1st battery in each series string, right?
Wrong, 12VDC powers it. It displays the output of the 48VDC battery pack.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I will look into this reply and the datasheet from Curtis Instruments:

"This is about the 3000 series enGage 2, the model encodement you have is configured specifically for Polaris
I attached the manual for you which has a basic troubleshooting guide in section 4.0, and also how to configure the gauge’s total hours if you need a replacement in section 2.6
You have the 12-48 Vdc AMP connector on your exact model

You can measure the voltage between Pin 6 (Keyswitch +) and Pin 8 (V-) and you should have your supply voltage, this turns the display on.
If you need a replacement, you should contact Polaris directly to ensure you get the same model as a drop-in replacement."

See attached enGage2_manual.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Jack, please look at your wiring diagram again to confirm the connector wiring information you previously sent:
BN = ground
W = 12 VDC
R/W = 48 VDC (key switched).
R = 48 VDC (drives state of charge meter by signaling voltage values).
Isn't 12VDC power to light the gauge, i.e., W wire?
Again, I do not have a R/BK wire (labeled as power?).

I'm in contact with Curtis Instruments and want to make sure I providing the correct wiring connector information. This is critical because the Curtis pin placement I received so far is different than in my 2015 EV connector.
BTW: the tech rep says the connector is AMP type, not Molex Iphysically they look the same, but the pin positions are different).
View attachment 25668
Also confirm that to at least test if the gauge illuminates, I run + and = leads from from my external motorcycle battery to the corresponding W (12VDC) and BN (neg/earth/ground) male connectors on the back of the gauge, right?

.
 

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Jack, please look at your wiring diagram again to confirm the connector wiring information you previously sent:
BN = ground
W = 12 VDC
R/W = 48 VDC (key switched).
R = 48 VDC (drives state of charge meter by signaling voltage values).
Isn't 12VDC power to light the gauge, i.e., W wire?
Again, I do not have a R/BK wire (labeled as power?).

I'm in contact with Curtis Instruments and want to make sure I providing the correct wiring connector information. This is critical because the Curtis pin placement I received so far is different than in my 2015 EV connector.
BTW: the tech rep says the connector is AMP type, not Molex Iphysically they look the same, but the pin positions are different).
View attachment 25668
Also confirm that to at least test if the gauge illuminates, I run + and = leads from from my external motorcycle battery to the corresponding W (12VDC) and BN (neg/earth/ground) male connectors on the back of the gauge, right?

.
I do believe that if you apply 12 VDC (as you described above) from the Positive and negative terminals of your motorcycle battery and the BN (negative ground) and W (12 VDC) pins of the gauge you will get an indication of power on the gauge. If you have a voltmeter (multimeter) that can be set to safely measure 48 VDC then you can turn on the "ignition" switch and test for voltage at the end of the R/W and separately at the end of the R wire. I think your multimeter probes would be applied as follows: Positive Probe to R/W, Negative probe to Ground. Because there is no way to know if your vehicle has been modified or damaged you must assume the entire risk of performing any of these diagnostic steps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I do believe that if you apply 12 VDC (as you described above) from the Positive and negative terminals of your motorcycle battery and the BN (negative ground) and W (12 VDC) pins of the gauge you will get an indication of power on the gauge. If you have a voltmeter (multimeter) that can be set to safely measure 48 VDC then you can turn on the "ignition" switch and test for voltage at the end of the R/W and separately at the end of the R wire. I think your multimeter probes would be applied as follows: Positive Probe to R/W, Negative probe to Ground. Because there is no way to know if your vehicle has been modified or damaged you must assume the entire risk of performing any of these diagnostic steps.
With your helpful information I've determined that the system is good and the gauge is bad. Thank you for keeping it simple by providing step-by-step instructions without assuming the recipient (me) has much electrical knowledge.

NOT OK - Gauge: does not illuminate applying 12VC to power (W) connection and ground (BN)
OK - System check pins at male connector: 14VDC (W and BN), 50.4VDCV (RW and BN), 50.5 (R and BN)

Please share what you may know about how the battery monitoring system works (beginning to end), i.e., how the RW (switched) and especially R (signalling voltage values) to the meter come from and interact. I know there are two leads (one from each of the first batteries in each series) with diodes keeping the current going in one direction from each battery to the meter, but since these are 12 VDC each how is it that the RW and R pins read 50.5 VDC at the connector? Essentially, I'd like to know how system changes in voltage values are interpreted/presented/displayed by the gauge.

Since I have what I needed to know in a practical sense by ruling out system faults. Any other information is background and not essential, but appreciate if/when you have time to increase my understanding of this terrific vehicle. I'm Journeyman level with mechanical stuff (changed all fluids, brakes, researched best tires with adapters, etc. on the EV), not so much with the electrics, but hope to get at a proper level to at least ask the right questions using the correct terms.
 

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I really do not know how the internals of the gauge work. Because there are two 48 VDC inputs I am guessing there is an algorithm that converts various voltages to a percentage of charge. In any event, this is about a $100 OEM part available from several Polaris parts suppliers and on Ebay. Part number is 4012658
 

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You are correct on the PN! Thanks for the correction. On a 2015 Ranger EV the PN is 4015096
25707
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
You are correct on the PN! Thanks for the correction. On a 2015 Ranger EV the PN is 4015096
View attachment 25707
Although my EV is 2015 I had to search for 2016 (the giveaway is the parking brake lever placement -mine is between the seats). Although, the part # 40156 is identical. $178.35 (Jack's source) vs. $195.99 Partszilla (includes shipping)
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Alex (CRICKETO) offered a spare one to a member in a post in 2018. I've contacted him s follows:
"There is an OEM alternative from Curtis Instr (the mnf for Polaris at $80), which has to be configured. If I use that one I'll start another post for help with how to best configure the low/high (RW and R 50.5 VDC wires to the gauge). alternatively, I'll consider the hall effect gauges seen on Amazon for $40.
Is your gauge from at least a 2015? The earlier ones may be different. If it is and the face illuminated when applying 12VDC to where the White and Brown wires connect from the AMP connector to the back of the gauge (I can send a photo if in doubt), what would you like for it to send to zip 28736 (Glenville, NC)?"
Its difficult to ID the gauge since the Polaris part numbers (401096) do not appear anywhere on the gauge. Only the Curtis Instruments (and the Chinese manufacturer) numbers are on the unit:
25709


Your opinion, if I use the Curtis substitute (enGageII 3000 series), should I create another post asking for help in how to configure the gauge it for the RW and R (mine read 50.5 VDC) leads from the connector? Jumping too far ahead I wonder if my 200 hours of use is stored in the EV memory somewhere. I believe that value can be input intow this gauge going forward.
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The bottom pin ports may be where the battery FULL and EMPTY profiles are set (configuration?)

The Curtis rep said the Polaris gauge used AMP, not Molex connector.
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This may be all for nothing if I get Cricketo's old gauge of if I take BoilerMkrs suggestion to use a hall effect substitute gauge (I have to research this type using magnetic current as the changing value of battery discharge vs. reading decrease in volts as the Curtis/Polaris gauges do. What the differences are and what the preferred type (accuracy) perhaps should be for a different post as I'm all-over-the-place on this one. But, I'm learning with your help as questions lead me from one aspect of Battery Discharge Indicators to another...
 

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In my experience all SOC (State of Charge) indicators are estimations based upon a wide variety of inputs and in some cases very complex algorithms. Even though my Tesla (2021, Model S) seems pretty accurate I wager it is not 100%. In reality what do you want the SOC to do for you? I use it as a guide; when down to only 3 bars showing (approximately 30% of rated charge remaining) I plug it in to charge. To me it does not matter if the indicator is +/- 10% of absolute accurate. It is just an indication...
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Señor, having read posts here about the inaccuracy of the std gauge I've been sensitized and become apprehensive
about running too long in the mountains of NC. I´m with you on ±10% unless its an altimeter or depth gauge. As long as I have faith in the gauge info, I'm good to keep rolling.

I use the EV for pleasure with my companion, Xena, - at times we get into "trails to nowhere" far from home.
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My batteries are the originals (6 yrs. old) and give about 20, up and down, miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
REMEDY ON THE HORIZON: Cricketo is sending his old gauge to me tomorrow. He kindly suggested I try it out.

If good then good. If not, I'll open a post asking about configuring the Curtis gauge or the Hall Effect ones - given that I don't have to enlarge the hole in the dash. Initial research shows they are a little larger diameter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
The substitute gauge is good. I am thankful for the information used to rule out anything other than my old gauge.

I've created a new post as to how to reset the substitute gauge correctly:
Consensus: Battery Discharge Indicator reset
 

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"Indicator", it powers the Charge Status Indicator on the 2013 dash, Don't know what it does on a 2015:
View attachment 25681
I don't think it would power the gauge, but that is just my guess.
Wrong, 12VDC powers it. It displays the output of the 48VDC battery pack.
Hello , first time in the forum . it seem as though i'm having the same problem and issues with my 2010 ev ranger 500 , i bought it back in 2015 , it ran great but the all the wiring harnesses were plugged into this 20 prong connection and thats how they would shut it off , anyway eventully it didn;t work any more , the batteries decade and would"nt refurbished, years later i bought all new Trojon Deep cell 12 volt 8 of em. plus i figured out the wiring myself:unsure:quite proud of that . it worked my two days then the Delta Q wouldn't charge , and couldn't troubleshoot the Algorythems . sorry guys trying to make a long story short . ok that meter your talking about mine is stuck at like 14.8 hours never realy saw that it worked anyway but my point is on mine that does conect to the ignition to make mine go . just yesterday i received from amazon the solenoid starter , thinking it might be that because im not get any reading from multimeter i can't find the same kind of hour/ voltage gauge. well that's my story and i'm keeping to it .Anybody .... could give me a clue on how to convert the charging process to the wall outlet, iv'e tryed the solar Panels got no charge with 4 panels system. iv'e had to charge one at a time but it seems to not charge the system of all 8 batteries to the polaris . if i haven't mention i have a 2010 polaris4x4 500 ranger . well i hope all this made sense thanks for letting me vent and get this off my Chest! sue west P.S i live in the arizona desert with land and can't really afford another untill i fix this one. B F N
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Consider beginning new posts with different subject(s). Your issues appear greater than the gauge in this conversation. Your questions are a bit confusing, e.g., there is no starter solenoid on the electric Polaris.

I've received much help here and hope that I can now provide some valuable information relative to your issue.

With regard to the Battery Discharge Indicator Gauge, see #29 conversation above to identify the Polaris gauge and an alternative for Curtis Instrument who make it for Polaris. The Curtis one is less than half the cost, but the data sheet instructions for programming it formidable, so not for me. I found a used Polaris gauge, which does work, but with low accuracy. I think that is a common fault with them.

This is how to test the system that powers the gauge. If all checks out then your gauge is bad.
1) check the two 2amp fuses on these two batteries.
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BTW: you test total pack voltage here:
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2a) check the 10amp fuse (LSV) in the fuse box.
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2b) The other 2amp fuse labelled INDICATOR to the right of LSV fuse relates to the charging light on the dash. It shows the system is charging (blinking) and charged (steady on). You mention the DeltaQ charger so maybe it relates to your issue(s). Look at the DeltaQ charging progress/troubleshooting on the unit itself:
25745


3) Test the connector (#16 post, page 1 in this conversation from Jack), which plugs into the back of the gauge:
Check for DC voltage on the wires going into the SOC meter (Battery Discharge Meter) at the connector.
Turn the key to the on position; then with a multimeter set to DC Voltage check to see if the 12 volt is present (Schwaco: (White to Brown ground, this powers the gauge display). Positive probe from Multimeter in the W connector and Negative probe in the BN connector.
Next with the key in the on position and the multimeter set to DC voltage (and if equipped; to more than 48 volts) Positive probe in the R connector and negative in the BN connector (Schwaco: These (Red and Red/White to Brown negative connector wires) relate to the energy coming from the two batteries with the 2amp fuses (see #1 above in this conversation). If not >48VDC, your gauge is shot like mine was.
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In addition to the Polaris gauge, I'm researching alternative gauges to increase my confidence to know that there is enough energy left to get me home during extended runs.
So far I find that (A) provides more accurate information, but the installation is more involved than the (B) type.

I will create a new conversation since this one has become too long and less relative to diagnosing the Polaris gauge itself.
25752
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
The last part of your question is missing so cannot guess how to help.
Regardless, I'm in process of researching which way to go with regard to gauge accuracy, display with %/bar graph, easy to read, and installation (don't want too many wires in the way when watering batteries).

First rule out your gauge is the issue. I took care to guide you step-by-step through that. Do that and come back to me about gauges. Anything else, create a new post(s) so someone with that knowledge can respond.
 

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The last part of your question is missing so cannot guess how to help.
Regardless, I'm in process of researching which way to go with regard to gauge accuracy, display with %/bar graph, easy to read, and installation (don't want too many wires in the way when watering batteries).

First rule out your gauge is the issue. I took care to guide you step-by-step through that. Do that and come back to me about gauges. Anything else, create a new post(s) so someone with that knowledge can respond.
Hello ,Schwaco, about that Pink Wire the the Gauge has a 6,7,8,9,10, red and white and a ground . i do see pink wire that comes out of the charger im working on it now are you available its 3:29 arizona time .
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
9:30 EST now and way past suppertime.

The pink wire(s) related to input for the gauge (see above for location and how to test to know if your gauge is good or not good). That and replacement gauges is what this post is about. I know nothing about the charger, sorry.

A service manual for your year EV will help, although the wiring diagrams in the electronic copy are not much help. Since you are deep into wiring consider getting a hard copy, which will be easier to follow the wiring paths. You can create separate, specific posts in this forum and folks with the hard copy will help.

If your issue is beyond the scope of this post create a different one. To help figure out the best wording when asking for help, look at the list of past posts in this forum. You will see that the very general ones will not get the help sought because one would not know how to respond. For example consider a title like: DeltaQ charger wiring, blah, blah, blah... Look at the posts and you'll get the idea. Besides direct, simple titles help all who follow when searching like/similar issues.

The the only pink wires I've dealt with relate to those sending the gauge signals. Check those 2 amp fuses.
The only wires in my 2015 gauge connector are Brown, White, Red, Red/White. Above are the test values. If the connector fails it is your gauge.
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I like your gumption to take on a job, that given my limited knowledge, I wouldn't attempt at this point of the learning curve. My only hope would be to create simple and specific inquiries. Most technical folks are not good at reading between the lines about a problem. Especially using this type of format, and not face to face to communicate.
 

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