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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Replacement Gauge Solution (for now):
Not trusting the used Polaris gauge any more than I did my now inoperative original, I installed an auxiliary VDC / % gauge. It is the simple +/= type, neither Hall effect nor shunt types (further keeping it simple with SAE connection to existing BatteryMinder aux charger/desulfator). The latter types yield more info, but my interest is just knowing how much energy I have along a route. I'll keep tabs on the energy levels over time/distance to know where I am and how much I can expect to have going forward as my flooded batteries deteriorate. Actually my 6yr old pack is doing very well:
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Xena an I ran, well she ran, about 15 miles up and down for a couple of hours - came back with 50+%.

BTW: you experts, please help Sue West, giving her due. She writes in somewhat between-the-lines style, but she is worthy of your consideration (a go-for-it-gal with no fear to get involved). If you have daughters/wives you may/may not understand. At this juncture she I thing she needs a DeltaQ replacement. Maybe you have one or two post Li conversions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
The replacement gauge is accurate and the Polaris gauge is inaccurate - it falls off markedly below 48% (no surprise, even after unplug/plugin reset with full charge).

There were some anomalies with the replacement gauge %, but OK enough to know what's up. Perhaps the downhill regeneration charging unsettles it momentarily.
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It’s hard to get out. Keep pressing the tabs and rocking back and forth. Check the 2amp fuses on each side of the batteries with single pink wire. One is passenger side rear battery other driver side middle battery.
That’s how you get out. You just have to keep squeezing and rocking it side to side. It’s a***** to get out. I have one in my shop now that’s not working and very interested in the info here about testing. If you pm me I send you a wiring diagram of the meter wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Thanks,
I did get mine out and replaced it with a used one from a member. Is your display blank like mine was or just inaccurate like the used one (and likely all other OEM gauges) I installed? I think the inaccuracy starts when regenerated power comes into play due to whatever algorithms Polaris used to program the signals from that one battery sending 14v power to it. It is interesting that the OEM gauge only has two wires [apart from power (W) and ground (Br) to receive and process the % charge [R/W = 48 VDC (key switched) and R = 48 VDC (drives state of charge meter by signaling voltage values)], Whereas, a replacement from the same mnf (Curtis) has a total of eight wires in the AMP connector. Maybe Polaris took a simpler but inferior solution in programming the proprietary gauge supplied to them by Curtis Instruments.

To get thew OEM % gauge out I did the following:
*1st remove the connector for the forward/reverse gauge below the % gauge to make room without damaging the forward/reverse gauge. It can also be pushed out without disconnecting it.
*the % gauge connection is now more accessible to disconnect it. I used a small screw driver to open up the pin on one side while an assistant put outward pressure on it from the front with a plastic trim, forked removal tool. There was no way to do it by applying pressure on the tabs as stated in the manual
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* as for testing the gauge:
BN = ground
W = 12 VDC
R/W = 48 VDC (key switched).
R = 48 VDC (drives state of charge meter by signaling voltage values).
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I’m going to replace it with a shunt type halls effect Columb meter that shows battery % and bars
 
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