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Discussion Starter #1
My four year-old battery finally ate the big one. It lasted as long as it did because it always sits on a charger. Anyway, I wanted to put a nice new Interstate unit in but the only one in Phoenix was almost 50 miles away and it was $157. Just for giggles, I called the dealer and for the OEM "KRAP-O-TRON" Polaris battery, it was only ten bucks cheaper. The gigantic 24" long Interstate monster that fits in the trunk of my old BMW cost only a few buck more. Proof again: If it's an ATV or UTV part, they'll charge twice as much for it, just like airplane parts. This Homey don't play dat. I wanted a better solution for less buckeroonies.


As survey of the local battery retailers showed nada. Polaris doesn't exist on most auto parts store battery lists. Amazingly, I remember Home Depot selling batteries, so I zipped by. They had one that was the exact height and depth but, it was almost two inches longer. They said I could bring it back so I grabbed it. This baby has 75 more cranking amps that the OEM battery. And, with a Military discount, it ran me $100. (Its sitting in the conversion tray)






The Polaris Engineers decided they would give us just enough room for the specified battery. I had seen a few YouTubes where guys had cut the tabs on the edge of the battery tray to fit larger batteries. I thought it better to leave them and just make a frame to fit under the battery. The first spacer frame was 1/2" steel welded in a square to fit the old tray. Here it is sitting in the tray...





Then, to position the battery, I sat the battery tray on top of the spacer tray and marked it...




Because the battery had been elevated by the two trays, I had to make up a new retainer strap. I used some old steel 1/8" scraps from a plasma cutter and fabbed up a new, taller

strap to secure the bigger battery. I painted them and lined the new battery tray with some motorcycle tube to prevent corrosion down the road...





Pardon my $2 Canon shop camera... Little fuzzy at times. Its all installed now and there was plenty of battery cable even though this battery had the lugs on the other side. Next time I might try and

find this same class battery with reverse terminals so I can put them on the inside of the vehicle. As you can see, it worked just fine...





If you are tired of paying more money for an inferior battery, upgrading the battery to a full-sized automotive battery is really easy.

And, I suspect the bigger capacity battery may last a tad longer. The Interstate in my BMW lasts 7 years because it lives in the trunk

and stays cool. The Ranger battery doesn't get all that warm in summer so if I get a little more, great. If not, I save $50 every time I

replace it. That is a WIN-WIN to me. No longer am I hostage to the goofy sized, over priced OEM battery.


:)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I did mine out of steel because I have a welder I am trying to learn to use. Steel is really overkill. You could make a tray out of wood and paint it and then used a ratchet strap to hold the battery down.


Steel probably lasts the longest. The worst thing your battery could ever see is a roll-over accident. If the retention strap holds it to the frame, there is not much more you can ask. Day-to-day driving, the frame just keeps it in position.


The 33% reduction in replacement battery costs to get a much better battery is the no-brainer.
 

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Since you recomend a larger battery that has more lamps.

Are you sure that your alternator..or stator and rectifier is strong enough for charging a higher amp battery without over loading it.
If you got 4 yrs out of a factory 30 amp battery.
That's. Not bad.
How long do you think a battery is supposed to last with all the vibration and abuse it gets riding in a UTV.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I think it's a 24 mo. Almost there. I use a battery tender periodically so it helps with battery life on my cycles and my Ranger.
I was spraying pre-emergent out of my Ranger and sprayed for almost two hours with the engine off and the battery still started the engine.

Also, if you note the OP photos showing the "spooge" marks from battery "venting." Certain times of year, the OEM battery would puke acid. The new battery looks clean and neat as the day I installed it.

Friend of mine owns a golf cart dealership where they sell and service electric vehicles. He was telling me if you can keep your use of a lead acid in the top 50-60% of its capacity and never go below that, your battery will last the absolute longest. If you are doing any spray operations or doing a lot of starting and stopping where the OEM battery might get depleted, the larger capacity helps protect the longevity of the battery. PLUS, IT'S CHEAPER!

:)
 

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Last thing I'd want, is to get out in the woods or in a rv park and a battery give problems.
The price of a good battery wouldn't be nothing for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
What would you call better...
More expensive?
Or, more cranking amps?
Which does the starter motor like better? The price of the battery or the current it provides?
 

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Better....

Quality made, Virgin lead. Great warranty.

Shock resistance. Sealed.

Buddy has a red optima in his 2011.

Think i have a 30A battery in mine.

I'd have to check the measurements.

But it would probably be this one.

 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Interstate makes a drop-in that runs about $200. But, even at their pricing, they have lowered their warranty periods.
If the lower quality OEM outlasts the warranty (4 years) with care, why not just pay less money to replace the battery with a higher quality battery, get more cranking amps and an AGM battery that is reliable throughout it's 4-5 year life? I have a buddy that has seen two of the newer Optima batteries fail inside a year on his trucks back east. Choices...choices.

"Ya pays your money, ya takes your choice."
 

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No put it in a boat.

Go offshore about 20 miles..run all your bilge pumps, and electronics.
Then come back.
See if the factor of how much the battery cost.
I I haven't owned a interstate in about 20 yrs.

OPTIMA® Batteries - Special Charger | Support | OPTIMA® Batteries
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Put an aircraft battery in. They are even better and cost about $900-$1200. Don't risk it.
 

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Interstate makes a drop-in that runs about $200. But, even at their pricing, they have lowered their warranty periods.
If the lower quality OEM outlasts the warranty (4 years) with care, why not just pay less money to replace the battery with a higher quality battery, get more cranking amps and an AGM battery that is reliable throughout it's 4-5 year life? I have a buddy that has seen two of the newer Optima batteries fail inside a year on his trucks back east. Choices...choices.

"Ya pays your money, ya takes your choice."
Got a buddy that bought a red optima for his 2.7 ford truck.
He is not happy with it.
 

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My four year-old battery finally ate the big one. It lasted as long as it did because it always sits on a charger. Anyway, I wanted to put a nice new Interstate unit in but the only one in Phoenix was almost 50 miles away and it was $157. Just for giggles, I called the dealer and for the OEM "KRAP-O-TRON" Polaris battery, it was only ten bucks cheaper. The gigantic 24" long Interstate monster that fits in the trunk of my old BMW cost only a few buck more. Proof again: If it's an ATV or UTV part, they'll charge twice as much for it, just like airplane parts. This Homey don't play dat. I wanted a better solution for less buckeroonies.


As survey of the local battery retailers showed nada. Polaris doesn't exist on most auto parts store battery lists. Amazingly, I remember Home Depot selling batteries, so I zipped by. They had one that was the exact height and depth but, it was almost two inches longer. They said I could bring it back so I grabbed it. This baby has 75 more cranking amps that the OEM battery. And, with a Military discount, it ran me $100. (Its sitting in the conversion tray)






The Polaris Engineers decided they would give us just enough room for the specified battery. I had seen a few YouTubes where guys had cut the tabs on the edge of the battery tray to fit larger batteries. I thought it better to leave them and just make a frame to fit under the battery. The first spacer frame was 1/2" steel welded in a square to fit the old tray. Here it is sitting in the tray...





Then, to position the battery, I sat the battery tray on top of the spacer tray and marked it...




Because the battery had been elevated by the two trays, I had to make up a new retainer strap. I used some old steel 1/8" scraps from a plasma cutter and fabbed up a new, taller

strap to secure the bigger battery. I painted them and lined the new battery tray with some motorcycle tube to prevent corrosion down the road...





Pardon my $2 Canon shop camera... Little fuzzy at times. Its all installed now and there was plenty of battery cable even though this battery had the lugs on the other side. Next time I might try and

find this same class battery with reverse terminals so I can put them on the inside of the vehicle. As you can see, it worked just fine...





If you are tired of paying more money for an inferior battery, upgrading the battery to a full-sized automotive battery is really easy.

And, I suspect the bigger capacity battery may last a tad longer. The Interstate in my BMW lasts 7 years because it lives in the trunk

and stays cool. The Ranger battery doesn't get all that warm in summer so if I get a little more, great. If not, I save $50 every time I

replace it. That is a WIN-WIN to me. No longer am I hostage to the goofy sized, over priced OEM battery.


:)
See you have a exude battery.

Exide makes a good battery.

Everybody don't carry them here.
 

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My four year-old battery finally ate the big one. It lasted as long as it did because it always sits on a charger. Anyway, I wanted to put a nice new Interstate unit in but the only one in Phoenix was almost 50 miles away and it was $157. Just for giggles, I called the dealer and for the OEM "KRAP-O-TRON" Polaris battery, it was only ten bucks cheaper. The gigantic 24" long Interstate monster that fits in the trunk of my old BMW cost only a few buck more. Proof again: If it's an ATV or UTV part, they'll charge twice as much for it, just like airplane parts. This Homey don't play dat. I wanted a better solution for less buckeroonies.


As survey of the local battery retailers showed nada. Polaris doesn't exist on most auto parts store battery lists. Amazingly, I remember Home Depot selling batteries, so I zipped by. They had one that was the exact height and depth but, it was almost two inches longer. They said I could bring it back so I grabbed it. This baby has 75 more cranking amps that the OEM battery. And, with a Military discount, it ran me $100. (Its sitting in the conversion tray)






The Polaris Engineers decided they would give us just enough room for the specified battery. I had seen a few YouTubes where guys had cut the tabs on the edge of the battery tray to fit larger batteries. I thought it better to leave them and just make a frame to fit under the battery. The first spacer frame was 1/2" steel welded in a square to fit the old tray. Here it is sitting in the tray...





Then, to position the battery, I sat the battery tray on top of the spacer tray and marked it...




Because the battery had been elevated by the two trays, I had to make up a new retainer strap. I used some old steel 1/8" scraps from a plasma cutter and fabbed up a new, taller

strap to secure the bigger battery. I painted them and lined the new battery tray with some motorcycle tube to prevent corrosion down the road...





Pardon my $2 Canon shop camera... Little fuzzy at times. Its all installed now and there was plenty of battery cable even though this battery had the lugs on the other side. Next time I might try and

find this same class battery with reverse terminals so I can put them on the inside of the vehicle. As you can see, it worked just fine...





If you are tired of paying more money for an inferior battery, upgrading the battery to a full-sized automotive battery is really easy.

And, I suspect the bigger capacity battery may last a tad longer. The Interstate in my BMW lasts 7 years because it lives in the trunk

and stays cool. The Ranger battery doesn't get all that warm in summer so if I get a little more, great. If not, I save $50 every time I

replace it. That is a WIN-WIN to me. No longer am I hostage to the goofy sized, over priced OEM battery.


:)
Went downstairs and looked at my battery.
They got it down in a tray, below 2 braces.

Didn't leave no room, to move in any direction.


Guess your bracket. You musta put it on top of the braces.
Didn't pay close enough attention to how you held the bottom battery brace down.
See you made a strap to hold the battery down.

Looks like you did a great job.

Did you power coat the brace you made ?
 

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Was looking at my Buddy's Ranger 2011 Xp 800.
He has a motorcycle battery in it.
He said he's gonna get a a brace and stick another motorcycle battery in it.

He looked at my battery.
And was saying you got a battery the size of a car battery.
A group 31 battery.
Dauym.

If I replaced the battery in my Ranger which measures.
8x7x7 1/4

I would want to see if I had the room to put this battery in it.
Don't know how much modification I would have to do.

 

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Or you could get a expensive battery. That's lasts a long long time. I think I had to make a new tie down strap for the box. But the fit was close.
 
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