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Yeah mine is not going into Turf Mode either, I don't think at least. When I make a sharp turn in the gravel you can tell it seems to dig a little on the inside wheel. I read something in the service manual about a sensor or something, that if not working correctly would not let Turf Mode engage. I plan to work on that too. I did read that the actuator on the rear diff activates for Turf Mode, and is off for regular locked mode. Maybe start by checking to see if that actuator is getting power when it should be?


No idea there, sorry.
Ive experienced that if the parking brake is engaged, even a little, that it will prevent turf mode being engaged and keep the rear diff locked. If its not engaged, I would look into the sensor on the parking brake. .
 

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2013 Bobcat 3400XL Diesel
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
If you remove the bushings that regulate the speed, do you have to replace them with new ones that are a different size?
I bought my 2012 from united rentals and it would only go 17mph so I took it to Bobcat and had a 35mph speed kit installed. On the bobcat website it appears that the Speed kits are just new bushings. Well it only will go 27mph now so I'm trying to figure out where to look and what to look for that could be causing the loss in top speed. Wore out drive belt, stretched throttle cable...?
I'm not sure, but if you look at the Bobcat parts manual online, you can see the actual dimension for the "speed kit" bushing. Another member here said they took the bushing out. I'm not familiar enough with the Polaris clutches to know if you could just take it out entirely. I guess the big concern would be whether the clutch would compress so far as to run the belt out of it. Just thinking out loud that it is probably a second bushing that limits the speed and you would be safe to take it out altogether. It's on my to-do list sometime in the future.

Ive experienced that if the parking brake is engaged, even a little, that it will prevent turf mode being engaged and keep the rear diff locked. If its not engaged, I would look into the sensor on the parking brake. .
Thanks, I'll have to look into that. My park brake light works, and I don't see it coming on, so one would think that it's disengaged, but you never know. If I get a chance I'll look through the manual and see if that is a normally open or normally closed switch and try to simulate it to test.
 

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I just purchased a 2016 Bobcat 3400XL diesel (serial #B3fm12408) from United Rentals and have a few questions regarding the unit. I can not seem to find what Polaris model is it’s “cousin”. I think it’s the same year model Polaris Ranger Crew 1000 but I’m probably wrong. That being said I think I need a new rear axle. There is a clicking/knocking sound while driving and turning the wheel either left or right. My first thought was to replace the front axles but after jacking the unit up and rotating the wheels by hand I found a ton of play in the wheel axle and figured I’d start there first. Any one have any clue where to find good aftermarket axles for the bobcat 3400xl? Also looking to add a lift kit to it. Any suggestions/info is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 

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2013 Bobcat 3400XL Diesel
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I just purchased a 2016 Bobcat 3400XL diesel (serial #B3fm12408) from United Rentals and have a few questions regarding the unit. I can not seem to find what Polaris model is it’s “cousin”. I think it’s the same year model Polaris Ranger Crew 1000 but I’m probably wrong. That being said I think I need a new rear axle. There is a clicking/knocking sound while driving and turning the wheel either left or right. My first thought was to replace the front axles but after jacking the unit up and rotating the wheels by hand I found a ton of play in the wheel axle and figured I’d start there first. Any one have any clue where to find good aftermarket axles for the bobcat 3400xl? Also looking to add a lift kit to it. Any suggestions/info is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I think that you can match up parts from the same year Polaris Ranger Crew 1000 like you said. The 2016 is a newer generation than mine, has double A-arm front suspension, Kohler Diesel instead of Yanmar, etc. I bought a lot of parts through Adept Powersports ( Adept Powersports OEM Polaris Parts ). The parts diagrams on there and other sites are very helpful. If you drill down to a particular part and then view the information for it, it will tell you all of the Polaris models that particular part is used on. That might help you in your search terms looking for cheaper aftermarket parts. Lots of things are used across multiple models and sometimes, especially used parts, they are listed just for whatever they came off of. For aftermarket axles, I can't make any recommendations, but there are some cheaper options on eBay. I have no idea how good/bad they may be.
 

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2013 Bobcat 3400XL Diesel
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Spent several days fixing wiring problems. When I got the machine, Turf Mode would not activate, and the turn signals and brake light on the right hand side was not working. So I finally started working on those things. The electronic service manual that I bought previously was invaluable. The wiring diagram alone was worth the cost of the manual. At first I had to undo the "fixes" that someone previously did. To get 4wd working someone had cut the Drive power wire coming out of the fuse block and spliced it directly to the rocker switch on the dash. This would make the front diff engage, but the rear diff would not disengage. The way the machine works is that power is applied to UNLOCK the rear diff, or power is applied to ENGAGE the front diff. This means that power is never applied to both front and rear diffs at the same time. If the rear diff is not getting power, it just stays locked all the time. Once the previous person cut that power wire to splice in, there was no longer power going to the rear for the backup alarm....so they pulled the oil switch wire from the engine and used that to power the backup alarm. You can't make this stuff up sometimes..

Without going into a lot of detail, I'll just mention for anyone troubleshooting wiring, that there are a handful of wire colors that are used in several places. The drive power wire is one example. There are two of the same wire color going to the rear of the machine: one for the rear diff relay and one for the backup alarm power. The one thing that the service manual does not show is the wiring for the turn signal kit. Here's my understanding of how that system is wired: From the factory there are 3 wires going to the rear lights which provide for running lights and brake lights (both tied together). When the turn signal kit is installed, those three wires are disconnected at the rear and the add-on harness is connected. So then what happens is that the brake light power wire feeds back up to the front where the flasher relay will be located. From there it goes back to the rear as two separate wires, so it can independently blink either rear brake light. I'm not sure which side of the vehicle that the add-on harness is supposed to be ran, but mine was ran down the drivers side all the way.

I had to repair several broken wires. All of them were also badly corroded from the insulation being damaged. Took lots of repeated fluxing and applying solder to get the ends cleaned up enough to make a decent solder joint. The problem with the Turf Mode ended up being one of the drive power wires being broken about where the center hump plastic cover is located in the front. Took me a long time to find that and fix it. Other damaged wires included: drive wire at fuse panel and at rocker switch (fixing previous "repair"), 3 wires in the rear turn signal harness, both wires on the front turn signal LED assembly, engine oil switch wire, Neutral indicator wire coming off the gearbox position switch, one rear brake/turn wire further back in the harness closer to the bulb holders, and probably one or two more I forgot about.

One more note about Turf Mode: it will not engage if the parking brake is set. Make sure your parking brake dash light works. The same switch activates that light and is located on the back of the parking brake handle assembly if you need to test it. If you have Turf Mode on, and then stop and set the parking brake, it will disengage. When you release the parking brake it will automatically re-engage. It functions this way so that parking brake is always applied to both rear wheels. If Turf Mode stayed on, you would only have parking brake on one rear wheel due to the open diff, or really both wheels could still turn under the right conditions since the brake is on the pinion side of the diff.
 

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Great info. Hopefully I can avoid that headache in the future. I replaced all the bushings and the rear CV axles. The rear axles were STUCK. Had to rent a CV puller to get them off. Also replaced all the brake pads and one entire brake caliber needed to be replaced on the front driver side. All pretty simple stuff. The clicking/knocking sound is gone now so I assume it was the rear cv joint.

I’m not having any luck finding a lift kit due to the rear suspension is a solid axle. I did adjust the shocks to their full height but I’d like a couple more inches of clearance if possible.

Anyone have a rear view mirror that will fit without the windshield on? Looks like the one from bobcat just sticks to the windshield and I don’t see a mounting tab on the top bar like the Polaris has
 

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2013 Bobcat 3400XL Diesel
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Great info. Hopefully I can avoid that headache in the future. I replaced all the bushings and the rear CV axles. The rear axles were STUCK. Had to rent a CV puller to get them off. Also replaced all the brake pads and one entire brake caliber needed to be replaced on the front driver side. All pretty simple stuff. The clicking/knocking sound is gone now so I assume it was the rear cv joint.

I’m not having any luck finding a lift kit due to the rear suspension is a solid axle. I did adjust the shocks to their full height but I’d like a couple more inches of clearance if possible.

Anyone have a rear view mirror that will fit without the windshield on? Looks like the one from bobcat just sticks to the windshield and I don’t see a mounting tab on the top bar like the Polaris has
Glad you got your issues figured out. I have seen some aftermarket rearview mirrors that just use a wrap around clamp mount that should work to secure to the roll bar. Not sure if the roll bar on the newer models like yours is round tube, or some molded shape?
 

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I'm late to the party, but I have a 2012 3400XL with the yanmar that I'm swapping out for a 2013 same model. Main reason is the 2013 only has 295 hours and mine has 1150. Both great running machines and have been in the family since new.

We've swapped all 4 axles on both machines and have a few thoughts to share...on these the right rear (turf drive axle) cv is first to go as we run them in this mode most often.

The best axles I've found are the Rhino axles from SuperATV, but they only make em for the fronts on this model. The rear axles I got from a place out of Florida I'm trying to recall name of....in did learn they sell 3 different lengths for the rear and Bobcat doesnt share crap on their parts, so hard to match up. After playing the shipping game, a parts rep lady (sharp lady) suggested I pull the old axle and measure length compressed and extended....she got theirs rom shelf and walla.

These buggies both have the 2 inch lift and struts set in lowest position....a good combo for ride and mild lift....rear struts are position and twist adjustable.

I will be taking bull pumper and winch off my 2012 and putting on the 2013...then time to swap diff, tranny and motor oil and all filters... plus install the light bar, but it already has a motorized GoLight with red lense covers for hog hunting.
 

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I can attest to the Yanmar Deisel being the good son. We also had a 2018 3400XL with the Kohler deisel and these yanmars out run and out power the new machine all day long, engine brake and hill climbing 100 percent better also.

Only thing is the Yanmar is a much louder deisel. One other thing is the check the valve lash....after setting mine back to spec, my 2012 has been shifting much better for some reason. Before you invest in the duraclutch I would see if you have engine braking issues as both these machines have none. Last unchecked they didnt make the duraclutch for these deisel models but that was over a year ago.

For those not in the know....remove the front seat kick panel and grease up that carrier bearing. If you get a loud rattle under the floor, this bearing is known to give it up if not greased.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I can attest to the Yanmar Deisel being the good son. We also had a 2018 3400XL with the Kohler deisel and these yanmars out run and out power the new machine all day long, engine brake and hill climbing 100 percent better also.

Only thing is the Yanmar is a much louder deisel. One other thing is the check the valve lash....after setting mine back to spec, my 2012 has been shifting much better for some reason. Before you invest in the duraclutch I would see if you have engine braking issues as both these machines have none. Last unchecked they didnt make the duraclutch for these deisel models but that was over a year ago.

For those not in the know....remove the front seat kick panel and grease up that carrier bearing. If you get a loud rattle under the floor, this bearing is known to give it up if not greased.
I really like that front bumper setup! Who makes it? Do you feel like the added weight had much affect on the front end as far as turning and suspension? I would also love to see some close up pics showing the components of the lift kit. I thought about a mild lift on mine at some point. I recently bought a set of Artrax CTX Radial tires that I am going to mount soon hopefully. I've been looking for a set of used steel wheels to mount them on so I can keep the industrial tires mounted that I have now. I may just end up and swap the tires because I'm not sure I would ever run the industrials. Do you ever notice a rattle on yours at certain RPM/load conditions? It's more of a vibration that sounds like it might be the exhaust heat shield.

I also set the toe-in on mine to be closer to factory spec. With no turf mode and about 3/4" of toe in, it was hard to back up in a sharp turn! I think I have mine set pretty close to neutral right now. Just something else everyone should probably check on a used machine they purchase. Factory spec calls for a touch of toe out, but I am leaving mine close to 0 for now.
 

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I never checked bumper manufacturer, but will as I remove it. Nothing on front side of it and only had it off once, but I'm going to pick up my new to me buggy this weekend and get started on the swap.

I will take pics of the lift, but it's just brackets and shackles...as explained using this 2 inch lift then backing off the strut tension to minimum resulted in little less than 2 inches but kept the ride quality.

I'm getting the new to me buggy from my brother so I've driven it several times over past few years....without the heavier bumper the ride is actually a little rougher...the added weight of bumper actually helps with the ride and doesnt hamper the turning at all. It's not incredibly heavy...I played on my back and installed it myself, so guess maybe 100 lbs or so with winch. I like this bumper and use it and winch.... ...not just for show that's for sure. The rcvr hitch on bumper is used for corn spreader...I also have a hitch for it with a clevis ring I use to strap from of buggy when trailering....it may be overkill, but simple to hook 3 straps to front (left and right corners plus a straight on short strap to center)....rear is strapped to sides of rear rcvr hitch left and right...i dont want to eat the buggy in case of a wreck.

As far as vibration rattle...remove that slide in plate at front of front seat. Reach down and see if you can shake the front drive shaft at the carrier bearing...if so, that may be the culprit. Either loose or worn...keep that greased as it's one of only few grease points either other being at rear drive shaft.

Also...you may want to remove muffler plug and start to blow out buildup.

If your model has the full undercarriage protection which is some heavy thick poly material....take some time and remove it...you will be amazed at debris, sticks and dirt you can clean out.
 

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2013 Bobcat 3400XL Diesel
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I never checked bumper manufacturer, but will as I remove it. Nothing on front side of it and only had it off once, but I'm going to pick up my new to me buggy this weekend and get started on the swap.

I will take pics of the lift, but it's just brackets and shackles...as explained using this 2 inch lift then backing off the strut tension to minimum resulted in little less than 2 inches but kept the ride quality.

I'm getting the new to me buggy from my brother so I've driven it several times over past few years....without the heavier bumper the ride is actually a little rougher...the added weight of bumper actually helps with the ride and doesnt hamper the turning at all. It's not incredibly heavy...I played on my back and installed it myself, so guess maybe 100 lbs or so with winch. I like this bumper and use it and winch.... ...not just for show that's for sure. The rcvr hitch on bumper is used for corn spreader...I also have a hitch for it with a clevis ring I use to strap from of buggy when trailering....it may be overkill, but simple to hook 3 straps to front (left and right corners plus a straight on short strap to center)....rear is strapped to sides of rear rcvr hitch left and right...i dont want to eat the buggy in case of a wreck.

As far as vibration rattle...remove that slide in plate at front of front seat. Reach down and see if you can shake the front drive shaft at the carrier bearing...if so, that may be the culprit. Either loose or worn...keep that greased as it's one of only few grease points either other being at rear drive shaft.

Also...you may want to remove muffler plug and start to blow out buildup.

If your model has the full undercarriage protection which is some heavy thick poly material....take some time and remove it...you will be amazed at debris, sticks and dirt you can clean out.
Cool, I would appreciate knowing who makes that bumper. I really like that! I might take mine to the outer banks and fish out of it. I think it would be perfect with a rod holder. The carrier bearing on mine doesn't seem loose, but the slip yoke does have a little play. I'd like to remove it and drill/tap for set screws like I did on the rear. I just didn't feel like all the work to remove it right now. Mine does have, or had, the thick plastic under protection in the middle section at least. I took it off when I was doing the gearbox work and haven't put it back. To my dismay I found that the 3 main crossmembers underneath are also bent, but they aren't bad enough to cause any problems. Maybe, just maybe, I'll cut them out and weld in something better one day. I have also removed the muffler plug and revved it up a few times but nothing came out. It looks like you have some 1" wheel spacers on the front of yours too? Have you seen the chainsaw holder that they made for these? It hooks into the holes in the bed rail areas. I may have to make something like that for this fall!
 

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No spacers to my k knowledge....the tires on mine are Essex brand kevlar, but they went out of business.

The cross supports must have hit some rocks etc...not a big deal if side rails still good. Not sure the poly covering would help that anyway to be honest. Just more of a stick blocker to allow you to pass over debris without jamming up into engine compartment.

I've seen the chainsaw holders and personally dont get it. I got a cheap 1/2 stall mat from TSC and just throw tools in the bed....chainsaws stay in their carry case. Not like you are going to be quick drawing a chain saw like chainsaw massacre Jason....I've also seen tool boxes mounted which I think is a waste for my use.....i just got 3 milk crates to chunk tools in and they dont move a bit on that stall mat....plus I can just grab a crate and pull it out if needed. Simple is best most of the time.

Not sure of your intended use...but I picked up a cheap corn spreader from Buccees along with a bbq sandwich....the feed is adjustable so intend to use it to spread fertilizer at the house also. It was less than 100 when fertilizer spreaders are 300....crazy!

I will getya bumper info next week....a bud has same style on his Kawasaki Mule.

Make sure you swap diff and tranny fluids. They all have magnet drain plugs. A fine metallic accumulation is ok....chunk metal not good. As mentioned before, make sure to check and adjust valve lash. Mine was way off at 1k hours and runs way better post adjustment.
 

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2013 Bobcat 3400XL Diesel
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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
No spacers to my k knowledge....the tires on mine are Essex brand kevlar, but they went out of business.

The cross supports must have hit some rocks etc...not a big deal if side rails still good. Not sure the poly covering would help that anyway to be honest. Just more of a stick blocker to allow you to pass over debris without jamming up into engine compartment.

I've seen the chainsaw holders and personally dont get it. I got a cheap 1/2 stall mat from TSC and just throw tools in the bed....chainsaws stay in their carry case. Not like you are going to be quick drawing a chain saw like chainsaw massacre Jason....I've also seen tool boxes mounted which I think is a waste for my use.....i just got 3 milk crates to chunk tools in and they dont move a bit on that stall mat....plus I can just grab a crate and pull it out if needed. Simple is best most of the time.

Not sure of your intended use...but I picked up a cheap corn spreader from Buccees along with a bbq sandwich....the feed is adjustable so intend to use it to spread fertilizer at the house also. It was less than 100 when fertilizer spreaders are 300....crazy!

I will getya bumper info next week....a bud has same style on his Kawasaki Mule.

Make sure you swap diff and tranny fluids. They all have magnet drain plugs. A fine metallic accumulation is ok....chunk metal not good. As mentioned before, make sure to check and adjust valve lash. Mine was way off at 1k hours and runs way better post adjustment.
On the valve clearance adjustment: Did you turn the engine by hand by rotatng the drive clutch, or did you use the starter to bump it, or something else? I see in the service manual it calls for .15-.25mm clearance. I hear ya on the chainsaw holder. I was just thinking that would keep the cargo bed empty for more firewood to haul. I've been meaning to pick up some milk crates to haul random stuff, but for now I have several squared buckets that I use in that manner. They have worked great for picking up random trash, rocks, carrying a few tools, etc. I like your spreader idea too, and something like that would be handy. I use mine just as a general purpose chore and fun vehicle and I wanted something big enough to take the kids. Now when you say you picked up the spreader and a bbq sandwich...was that a brisket sandwich? If the TX in your name is for Texas then I have to think so. Reminds me I need to learn to smoke a brisket too! I miss that TX bbq from doing work travels.
 

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I rotated by hand and removed the flywheel cover to make sure I was spot on with markings. Just loaded up new to me Bobcat and starting drive home tomorrow...spent few days hunting hogs...we got 6.

I will be cleaning it top and bottom, swapping bumpers and installing light bars front and back... .then swapping all filters and fluids....this will take 2 weeks working evenings I'm sure. Also need to run accsry plugs for front and rear as I use sprayers and the spreader as mentioned.

Yes....bbq
20200822_111217.jpg
 

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Got the bull bumper and winch removed and ready to install on newer buggy, which is the black camo unit...no markings on either bumper to show maker though. I imagine these are same for the similar model 2012 and 2013 Polaris models. The dealer installed them originally
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Got the bull bumper and winch removed and ready to install on newer buggy, which is the black camo unit...no markings on either bumper to show maker though. I imagine these are same for the similar model 2012 and 2013 Polaris models. The dealer installed them originally
Good looking machines! I appreciate you checking the bumper. It looks similar to a Ranch Hand, which is really popular in TX, so it could be something they made. Who knows. Both of those are in better shape than mine, ha ha.
 

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2020 Ranger 570 Full Size Crew, OEM top, aftermarket front and rear windshields, Maxxis Ceros tires.
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I rotated by hand and removed the flywheel cover to make sure I was spot on with markings. Just loaded up new to me Bobcat and starting drive home tomorrow...spent few days hunting hogs...we got 6.

I will be cleaning it top and bottom, swapping bumpers and installing light bars front and back... .then swapping all filters and fluids....this will take 2 weeks working evenings I'm sure. Also need to run accsry plugs for front and rear as I use sprayers and the spreader as mentioned.

Yes....bbq View attachment 23894
Very nice hunting rig. Curious how you haul your game out since you have the bed mounted seats. Trailer? Another machine?

Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
 

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Those hunting seats are easy to remove and are only on now since I just picked them up with my new to me machine....used for hog hunts and removed for deer season.

Beds are hydraulic lift, so I tilt up and sling a rope around rops to lift deer or axis if alone.
 

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Before running winch and light wiring harnesses, I dropped side panels and the full length skid panel for a detail cleaning....its amazing how much dirt, rocks and debris hides under panels. This is after I cleaned underneath machine with hose and air hose.




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20200827_184914.jpg
 
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