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Hope your refurbish of the Bobcat is moving along well.....I had a bud come help me get the bumper and winch mounted and main power cables are run....will be finishing the cleanup and winch relay install tomorrow.

Then will need to fab some roof mounts for light bars and get those installed.

Will be picking up the supplies next week from dealer to get all fluids and filters changed.
 

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Having issues with consistently starting the 2016 3400XL Diesel. I’ve replaced the ignition switch and have same response. I have also cleaned the brake pressure switch and seems like it’s not the issue as it has not resolved yet. I have working brake lights when stepping on the brake pedal to start the machine so it is sensing the brake pedal is engaged. When I turn the ignition switch sometimes it starts right up and sometimes it just clicks. I then have to repeatedly jiggle the key to the start position and it will finally start up. I do not have to switch gears or pump the brakes to get it to start. Simply jiggling the key multiple times quickly gets it running.

Is there another sensor I should be checking? Like I said I have already replaced the ignition switch it could possibly be a wire problem after the switch but where does that go to check it? Thanks for any help
 

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My brother had same issue with his 2018, which seemed to happen after motor was warmed up. He would just jiggle the key and it would fire up. He was told it was likely a bad relay or sensor but never had time to haul it in as dealer was far away from his place. May google it as I hear it's a common issue so someone may have the fix posted hopefully.

I just finished up the light install after waiting forever on the lights to arrive...I picked low profile pods and got the brightest of this style I could find...needed low profile to not interfere with the main Go Light which is remote control adjustable.....I have had wires run and switches, fuse connections and relays installed for a while waiting on lights....put 1 on bumper which is a spot, floods on top and another flood on rear. Also added a USB charger volt meter switch which will be handy.
 

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My brother had same issue with his 2018, which seemed to happen after motor was warmed up. He would just jiggle the key and it would fire up. He was told it was likely a bad relay or sensor but never had time to haul it in as dealer was far away from his place. May google it as I hear it's a common issue so someone may have the fix posted hopefully.

I just finished up the light install after waiting forever on the lights to arrive...I picked low profile pods and got the brightest of this style I could find...needed low profile to not interfere with the main Go Light which is remote control adjustable.....I have had wires run and switches, fuse connections and relays installed for a while waiting on lights....put 1 on bumper which is a spot, floods on top and another flood on rear. Also added a USB charger volt meter switch which will be handy.
NICE Setup! Where did you get the front bumper/grill guard? I went a head and ordered a new brake sensor and will put that in later this week to see if that’s the fix or not. Fingers crossed.
 

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Think dealer got it from Texas Outdoors as they're not far from dealership and look to make this type bumper....also have some cool roofs and other equipment they make.

Texasoutdoors.com and they have heavy duty stuff.

Hope that sensor is the fix.. ....if ...not im sure it's some sensor or relay heating up.

I like the bumper as I can use receiver for corn spreader and attach D ring for strap hookup when trailering.... works great. Also a good leaning post for sipping a cold beer after work is done.
 

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2013 Bobcat 3400XL Diesel
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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
It's been a while but I thought I would post an update. Since the last update I've put on new tires and did a valve clearance check. All of my valve clearances were within spec, so no power to be gained there for me. One day I may try to research the engine # in mine and see if it was replaced at some point. Performing the valve clearance check was easier than I thought it would be. I was able to turn the crank by hand just by turning the bottom crank pulley and pushing the belt at the same time.

For the tires, I installed Artrax CTX Radials, 26x11x12 and 26x9x12. There was a small clearance issue with them rubbing the tie rod ends. For now I put some 5/16" washers behind the wheels to space them out a smidge. A 1/4" spacer would work well also. No issues with clearance to the back of the wheel well where there are a couple of screws that come through from inside. I chose these tires because they are 6 ply rated, and radials.

Pros: 6 ply rating, radial, price is right, they ride good so far
Cons: They are noticeably heavier. This coupled with the slight increase in tire diameter has affected acceleration in H.

I found a set of used Polaris Ranger wheels so that I could easily swap back to the industrial tires if I ever need to run them...plus the Ranger wheels are already black! If you look for Ranger wheels, look for the ones with the single triangle cut outs between the wheel studs. The wheels with 3 triangles between each stud came on the Sportsman and I am not sure if the offset spacing is the same (someone chime in here). Also know that some newer Rangers (XP?) use larger wheel studs and the wheels use acorn nuts instead of the regular flange nuts, so those won't work...or maybe they would if you found 3/8 acorn nuts? Either way, just be sure you know what you are looking for.

Anyway, here's mine. One of these days I need to sand and paint the panels to get rid of the rental numbers!
24434
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
A couple of other things I hope to work on sometime soon: Working on the bed side panel screws, and LED lights. About half of the screws that go around the top edge of the bed are stripped on mine, so I need to figure out a good way to fix them so the bed won't rattle so much. For LED lights, I'd like to find an LED replacement bulb to fit the headlights, but so far have not found one. Anyone here know of one? I have also thought about adding a curved LED light bar just underneath the roof. That way it wouldn't get snagged as easily by some of the low limbs and branches.
 

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My 3400 had a cloth cab enclosure. The front windshield and doors are gone. the rear window has been cut out.

This leaves me with a fabric top under the plastic roof. I plan to remove the fabric and just run the plastic top...

Any concerns about this not staying on while trailering? The fabric was still attached at the four corners.



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Just picked up a 2013 with VERY LOW HOURS!!! 702 hrs to be exact! There is just one thing....
I need to put it back together! Lol I appreciate any help in advance, also any upgrades I need to do now while it is easily accessible I would love to know y’all’s opinion. My friend bought a brand new 2020 Polaris and went with a bigger wheel and tire setup so he let me have the brand new take offs! It has the Yanmar Diesel which I was excited about but it only goes around 18 mph which is fine right now but if there are simple adjustments to get to around 30 mph I’m open to any suggestions!


8F126467-AE0F-4D19-82C8-4ECF93739F7D.jpeg
 

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I've been fighting getting the hard roof back on mine.

I get 6 of the eight clamps to lock. And doing it as a one man job, I keep getting it shifted corner to corner.

I gave up on it last night and will try again when I have more patience.

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Got her put back together! All new fluids and filters! She runs sooo good I’m a really happy with how it turned out. If anyone has in depth details with pictures on how to remove the speed limiter plastic bushing that would be greatly appreciated. Also if you have removed the bushing how much faster was the machine? This one goes only about 25 mph right now. Thanks in advance!

24589
 

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2013 Bobcat 3400XL Diesel
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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
My 3400 had a cloth cab enclosure. The front windshield and doors are gone. the rear window has been cut out.

This leaves me with a fabric top under the plastic roof. I plan to remove the fabric and just run the plastic top...

Any concerns about this not staying on while trailering? The fabric was still attached at the four corners.



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Sorry for the late reply on this. I would be careful trailering it until you have the top fairly secure. I learned that lesson the hard way. The top flew off mine when I was taking it home from buying it. Didn't realize until I got home! Luckily the guy I bought it from was able to find it close to his shop and held it for me to come back. I was sweating bullets when I realized I had lost it. So anyway, what I did on mine was to 1: get a second person to help secure all the clamps. I crawled up on top and pressed down on some of them while the other person used a pair of pliers to close the clamps from the bottom. 2: once all of the clamps are secure, run a long zip tie around the bar and clamp, going through the small gap at the top of the clamp, and putting the head of the tie against the edge of the clamp at the bottom. It's a little tough to describe, but so far so good. It keeps the clamps from popping open. Later I had to stuff a couple of shop rags folded up, under the edge where the two sections meet, to keep it from rattling. The diesel engine at idle will help you find all the rattles!

Got her put back together! All new fluids and filters! She runs sooo good I’m a really happy with how it turned out. If anyone has in depth details with pictures on how to remove the speed limiter plastic bushing that would be greatly appreciated. Also if you have removed the bushing how much faster was the machine? This one goes only about 25 mph right now. Thanks in advance!
I too am interested in taking out the limiting bushing. If I read the manual correctly, I think you just take out the 6 screws holding the halves together and then you can remove those parts and the bushing. It's on my to-do list to pull the clutch and give it a shot.
 

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Took my new toy out for her maiden voyage at the sporting clays course this morning.

The bobcat performed great, my tow vehicle struggled getting it home in the wind.

Plenty fast for a sporting clays course.


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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
I finally got around to doing a bit more work on mine. I removed the speed limiter bushing and replaced the parking brake pads. This past weekend I trailered the bobcat for the first time in forever, and the zip ties through the roof clamps did the trick. The top stayed secure!

Removing the speed limiter bushing was not that bad. Once you have the drive clutch off the machine, you only have to take off the top/side plate to get the bushing out. The spring underneath is under tension, but I was able to hold it down enough with my hand to get the bolts started back during reassembly.
Torque specs:
  • Driven Sheave Bolt: 13ft-lb
  • Drive Clutch Bolt: 47ft-lb (left hand threads also)
  • Clutch Top/Side Plate Bolts: 100in-lb


Here's the bushing, visible under the spring. It's the white plastic piece. This is a side view of the clutch:
25065


Top/side plate removed, spring and bushing still in place:
25066


Top/side plate removed, spring removed, bushing still in place:
25067


Spring and bushing both removed:
25064
 
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