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Dont buy any inverter unless its a pure sine wave one. Most of the cheaper ones are a modified sine wave and many motors really dont like them. It would probably be simpler to just use battery tools, they have advanced so much with Li ion batteries.
 

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Battery Tools Rule

Dont buy any inverter unless its a pure sine wave one. Most of the cheaper ones are a modified sine wave and many motors really dont like them. It would probably be simpler to just use battery tools, they have advanced so much with Li ion batteries.

I second Grumpyb. The inconvenience of corded electric tools far exceeds any slight benefit of of their "power and torque" I have switched to all battery powered tools in my forestry work (disclaimer; except felling trees of commercial size). Greenworks and Sthil are two brands that have excellent quality and durability. Pick the voltage you want then buy tools that use the same battery.
 

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The other better option than battery powered tools would be to carry a digital generator/inverter in the box to power the tools. It can also be used to recharge the EV off grid.
I use a Polaris 2000i portable digital inverter/generator. Make sure it is digital and at least 2000 watt output to charge the EV.
 

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Where to get 48V without errors

I got a 3000W 48v inverter to run my power tools in the field. I tried connecting to the 48v battery points and it sparked and caused errors.

Where is the best place to get 48v on the EV for my inverter? Pics appreciated.

Newbie Homey
 

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I got a 3000W 48v inverter to run my power tools in the field. I tried connecting to the 48v battery points and it sparked and caused errors.

Where is the best place to get 48v on the EV for my inverter? Pics appreciated.

Newbie Homey
You may want to add a contactor and a fuse in series with the inverter, but still connect it straight to the batteries. Then wire up a switch that will activate that contactor and switch on the inverter.

bat- === [ inverter ] === (contactor) ==== <fuse> === bat+
|_______________________| |______[switch]__<fuse>__|
 

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I got a 3000W 48v inverter to run my power tools in the field. I tried connecting to the 48v battery points and it sparked and caused errors.

Where is the best place to get 48v on the EV for my inverter? Pics appreciated.

Newbie Homey
I have a maintenance switch on my 2011 Ranger. I would connect the 48V inverter to the + and - terminals on the Sevcon controller. Turn on the maintenance switch. After that, use the key switch to turn on the contactor. It will power up the 48V inverter as well as the Sevcon controller

Since there is a fuse protecting both the controller and the inverter, it should be a safe enough test.
 

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQ4K4ML/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the inverter. Im new to this and don't know what / where contactors, controllers even are on my 2019 EV. The manual I got is pretty basic with no schematics, etc.

I found the 48V terminals on the battery pack per the drawing above but it sparked and beeped when I tried to connect the + and - cables to the inverters' 48V input. Anyone got a pic of where I should be getting the 48v from?

Homie
 

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I used a Power Horse 2000i Inverter generator this year when i left the EV at camp for a week to hunt several days in a row. Although i only needed to charge the EV batteries once because of the Li-ion kit conversion my 48V to 12 Volt converter had gone out and I ran the 12V needed off the winch battery and kept it charged.
 

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQ4K4ML/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the inverter. Im new to this and don't know what / where contactors, controllers even are on my 2019 EV. The manual I got is pretty basic with no schematics, etc.

I found the 48V terminals on the battery pack per the drawing above but it sparked and beeped when I tried to connect the + and - cables to the inverters' 48V input. Anyone got a pic of where I should be getting the 48v from?

Homie
I would connect the + to the fuse where the white positive arrow is pointing on the motor controller.

And the - to the other end of the ground cable shown in the picture. It is labeled "to controller -" on the drawing in post #2.

Electrical wiring Cable management Cable Wire Technology



If you don't want to have the key on when using the inverter you will need a high amperage fuse and connect it to "to controller" on the battery pack drawing.

.
 

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Many thanks for the help!

I tried connecting the inverter 48v directly to "to controller - " and "to contactor +" which I measured at about 50vdc and it sparked badly so I quickly disconnected the inverter. Im thinking maybe the inverter is bad?


Homey
 

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Was the inverter power switch on?

I would try again with a voltmeter connected and see how much the voltage drops.

Fasten the - cable and put the + cable on, holding it down tight. If the voltage drops a lot and the cable gets hot, pull it off.

You could also measure the resistance across the DC Connection terminals with the switch off.

There may be a filter capacitor that was charging up, causing the spark.

Product Electronics Technology Electronic device Audio equipment
 

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Many thanks for the help!

I tried connecting the inverter 48v directly to "to controller - " and "to contactor +" which I measured at about 50vdc and it sparked badly so I quickly disconnected the inverter. Im thinking maybe the inverter is bad?


Homey
That link you sent to Amazon states : No load current draw 1.5A. That's quite a bit of draw, and will be plenty to send a decent spark. If you don't route the thing via main power contactor like others suggested, then connecting it directly to the batteries will fully drain them in less than... 200 hours. That's why I suggested using a separate contactor, something like this : https://www.amazon.com/Friday-Part-...A&qid=1551636369&s=lawn-garden&sr=1-8-catcorr

And couple that with 100-150A fuse. Theoretically that thing can draw some 250A, but again, Chinese vendors often overstate their specs (and use crappy parts), so may be better to go on the side of caution.
 

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You Could have bought a 2000i generator for a few more bucks to run your tools. I know thats not your goal but I've learned the hard way about connecting wires and accessories to connections. The EV has some expensive parts. If anyonr can help it would be on this site. Good luck and take it slow
 

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You Could have bought a 2000i generator for a few more bucks to run your tools. I know thats not your goal but I've learned the hard way about connecting wires and accessories to connections. The EV has some expensive parts. If anyonr can help it would be on this site. Good luck and take it slow
The advantage of going the inverter route is that given beefy enough inverter it can run some pretty powerful things: Chainsaws, welders, even entire house (backup power). All of which are of course possible with a generator, but that would be a relatively big generator that is not as easy to haul around. Plus I personally like when it's quiet :) Personally I would go with something like this :
https://www.wholesalesolar.com/2923403/cotek/inverters/cotek-sd3500-148-gfci-inverter

There is a problem with smaller inverters that they don't do 230/115 - they're all either 230, or 115. Autotransformer can be added to perform the conversion in either direction. In fact even bigger inverters are often recommended (Victron says as much) for use with autotransformers due to more balanced loading.
 

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Again, thanks for the help!

I got it working! I ran my power saw and leaf blower with no problem and zip tied the crap out of all the different wires. I also ran the + and - through the chassis on different sides in case I run over something bad. That way they never get close to each other.

I ran the + - cables directly to the 48V connections since the inverter has its own fuse. I may regret that.

I will post pics of this but I don't know how on this interface. So I tried as attachments.

Homey!
 

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