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Discussion Starter #1
Returned from deer camp last night w 70% charge on Li-ion batteries. Left on trailer and unloaded Ev this morning. Disconnected trailer and got back in the ev and don't remember if it was on or off. But the red wrench light was on and error light on BMS charge indicator was on and only the 10% light was on. After doing some checking the battery pack reads 77%. There is blink code on the controller (4) which means contactor issue. How do i check the contactor or troublshoot it. It does not click when key is turned on but it makes a sound when turned off. I wouldn't call ita click. 48 volt fuses are good and read continuity. Very Confused
 

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There are two smaller wires (coil activation) connecting to the contactor on the passenger side. When I pull one of them off and switch the key, I get the
wrench. It is possible that you have a lose connection there. They seem to be tension connectors similar to spark plug connectors, maybe try squeezing
them with pliers slightly and then slide them back on.

When I tested this I pulled it off with key on... was a bad idea :) There was a small arc there, which I didn't expect at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
There are two smaller wires (coil activation) connecting to the contactor on the passenger side. When I pull one of them off and switch the key, I get the
wrench. It is possible that you have a lose connection there. They seem to be tension connectors similar to spark plug connectors, maybe try squeezing
them with pliers slightly and then slide them back on.

When I tested this I pulled it off with key on... was a bad idea :) There was a small arc there, which I didn't expect at all.
Yes I checked them earlier before posting this this morning. They are tension rings in the boots and one was not very tight so i squeezed it a little bitand it did better but no change. read my reply to Xfaxman.
Thanks for submitting.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Measure the voltage from ground on the motor controller to the input on the contactor.

With the key on it should be the same as the B+ terminal on the controller.

View attachment 20381
Thanks Xfaxman I returned home this afternoon and checked the cart. with the key on. At controller Batter- post to top post on solenoid i got 52V. From Battery- to Battery + post on controller i got 24V.
Strangest thing happened?? All indicator light on dash were on but seemed dim so i thought what about the headlights. I checked them and they were dim or not on as i was viewing from being over the seat. I turned the key off and back on and heard the solenoid click and the turf mode selector clicked. Checked the voltage again as you described and now have same volts at both. The green light on controller is steady and wrench light went away along with the error orange light on the BMS guage. Put it F and it moved. R it moved. Like it never happened. Do you think I shoud consider replacing the solenoid as there may be a reason it sticked and may completely fail later when i could possible be stranded at camp.
 

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With the key off, check the resistance where the red arrows are in the picture below.

Be sure the probes are on the bolt head and the stud, not on the cable connectors. This will show if there is a bad cable or poor connection.

The contacts inside the contactor are the most likely cause. Some solenoid contactors can be taken apart and burnished, but replacement is the best option.
 

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and may completely fail later when i could possible be stranded at camp.
Carry a jumper cable and jumper across the contactor.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
What gauge wire?
 

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Well I was thinking of car jumper cable set, but you would have to put one clamp on the other, to use both cables in parallel.

If you make a jumper it would have to be the same gauge as what is there and other than big, I don't know what gauge it is.

Another idea if there is enough thread, is to carry a wrench, remove both nuts, move the input cable over on top of the output cable and put the nut back on. There will be a spark so hold the cable tight while getting the nut on.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Update

I have not had anymore issues with the Contactor. I ordered a spare from amazon and plan to waiit till after hunting season and replace it. I also made a jumper from some #2 cable just in case it happens again.
 
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UPDATE It wasnt the Contactor...
Got in the EV to do a afternoon hunt after charging the night before and nothing. Turned the key on, no lights on BMS guage,no head lights, only mode switch FNR and of course the RED wrench light. No click from the solenoid or Turf mode. thinking it was the contactor I had ordered a new one so changed it and nothing new. Got to think ing about nothing working that is 12V so I checked(3 POST TERMINAL) the Switched 12v and nothing. Continous12V was present. Disconnected the 12V DC converter and 53V in 0 volts going out. Gave LOU a call and he sugested tapping into the 12v side of the connection and connect to a 12V battery to see if the EV would respond. I have a 12V Blue Top right there i use for the winch and light bar so i connected the 12v from it to the + and - of the converter wires that go into the fuse box and BOOM evrything lit up and back in business.
SOOO... I need a converter. LOU sent me a pic of a used replacement SEVCON from Ebay starting bid is 125.00. Polaris OEM parts are 375.00. Has anyone who has replaced their converter used any other types of converters different from Sevcon. The Sevcon is 36/48V to 14.1V 300 Watts. There are other converters new on ebay and amazon with the same 300-400 Watts and lou says I need at least a 30amp I'm probably gonna try and get this one from ebay cause i need one now I can run on the winch battery until i can get one. the one on ebay is in Oregon.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I was the only one to bid on the 125 dollar used sevcon on eBay. It will arrive Tuesday. Thought about on of the golf cart converters that we’re cheaper but really didn’t want to cut the connector of the sevcon off.
 

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I was the only one to bid on the 125 dollar used sevcon on eBay. It will arrive Tuesday. Thought about on of the golf cart converters that we’re cheaper but really didn’t want to cut the connector of the sevcon off.
Yeah, that was me selling :) Will drop it off at the post office tomorrow.
 

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Original Contactor Problem

Was looking at the 2012/2013 wiring schematic to see if there was a correlation between the original contactor problem and the DC to DC converter not working.

I don't see any connection. The contactor is energized with 48 volts when the key is turned on. The wires come from The ECM through an unlabeled connector:

2013 Contactor Wires.PNG

2013 Motor Controller Connector.PNG


To the contactor:

2013 Contactor.PNG


I finally figured out the connector is on the Sevcon Motor Controller and the ECM is in the Sevcon. The ECM also turns on the wrench light.

Sevcon Motor Controller.PNG


So if the contactor problem returns, check the voltage on the contactor coil.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Converter from eBay installed Tuesday and working good. On my 3rd hunting trip at camp.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yea Xfaxman it has 4 terminals
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I’ve noticed couple times driving out at night w lights on they go from bright to dim. Like all of a sudden they’ll be bright then dim.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I'd like to pick this thread back up and continue the post. I have a digital volt meter attached to the 14V output side of my DC converter that i purchased on ebay. I haven't ridden it much since deer season. It sits in the Car garage. Sometimes I turn the key on its 14.1 and sometimes its 9.5 or 9.6 sitting in the carport. this morning I turned the key on and it was 9.6, went into the house to get camera, took pic, and then it changed to 14.1. There are 50 volts going in. I have cleaned the contacts and applied a little dielectric grease but still no change. Can the output change up and down like this? I figured it either works or not.
 

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