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Andrew Rianhard
12:05 PM (3 hours ago)
to me
The accident: Pulled out of the barn after a snow storm, locked the rear diff, and gave it the beans in low gear. The rear end spun out, and right away the machine shut down. Dash lights no longer come on. Even though the machine was at 95%, each time I turned on the key it would show the battery draining (it's now at 50%). I tried resetting the system by disconnecting the main connector under the seat, and got it to display that it was charging, and got the dash lights to come on momentarily, and headlights were working, but then I took it out of turf mode, and I think I heard a click and it went back to non-responsive with no dash lights. Disconnected the main power again once it was fully charged, yet still no dash lights. The Delta Q charger has a red flashing light under the normal yellow light.

Note: I would love to figure it out on my own if it was something easy (I already checked the one fuse box but didn't notice anything blown), but not afraid to have a Polaris shop look at it because I work a full time job and I'm not great with wiring. Will report my findings of what it happened, just in case it happens to someone else.


Background of machine and it's RWD issue: '17 Polaris Ranger EV with 120 hours- Bought it used with bad batteries (3 miles range when I bought it, but then 1.5 mile range this summer). Always worked great in 4wd or turf mode. Locking the rear would occasionally have a weird wiring issue, where the dash wouldn't illuminate (intermittent issue only). So I just used it in turf mode all the time essentially. The machine has a few wires that look corroded, or not hooked up. Primary use is moving trees & saplings around on rolling hills. Not riding on trails, just towing or doing dump loads.


Somewhat similar threads:
EV 2013 Panel lights out, stuck in AWD, no headlights (this thread has some wiring diagrams)




Battery woes- I was preparing to do a battery upgrade and achieve 6-15 miles of range for cheap. But now that I have this extra wiring expense on the farm vehicle- I'm curious of your input. Fixing the wiring, along with a lithium upgrade, just doesn't seem financially wise on my end as I start this property maintenance/landscaping business.


Take your vote on the best option for fixing the wiring and getting new batteries:
1. Take it to the dealer to have wiring fixed, and get it running again and then I swap in AGM batteries on my own. I swapped in one lead acid replacement on my own, and it wasn't that bad. AGM battery review: AGM battery conversion 1 year later


2. Have the dealer install just 4 lead acid batteries (and do lithium in 3-4 years when I have more funds). I could install the lead acids on my own, but this is the same shop who I purchase the lead acids from, so might as well have them install it. This thread made 4 batteries sound like a great option for my limited range needs: Double to Single 48v battery bank test results (however, someone said it would prematurely kill those 4 batteries. Maybe that's because they assume they would get depleted too much? I am repurposing my 8 lead acids to be solar storage to power fans in a solar kiln I'm making. So if I got this route of 4 lead acids temporarily, then I wouldn't feel that bad if they only last 3 years, since they will get another life in the kiln, as well)

3. Tow it to the dealer for the wiring issue (1.5 hours south), then tow it to the EV shop to invest into a 5-7kW lithium battery. (another 1.5 hours south of the Polaris dealer) The EV shop said it would be $4300 for a 7kW lithium battery, plus install. By I thought of presenting them the option of building their own, using the Robb Atlass DIY battery kit: DIY 14.4KWH 48v 280AH LFP Battery For Polaris Ranger EV Buy Your Own Cells - Atlas - Energy Storage Systems . What then again, if I went the 4 lead acid battery route, in 3 years when those aren't performing- I would love to do is reuse the cells from my 170K mile Chevy Volt, since it has 1-2 years left before the frame is rotten due to VT winters. I'd be parting out that car anyways.


4. Save myself a massive headache (towing logistics and extra fuel costs for 2 trips for 2 shops) and just have the EV shop try to fix the wiring, and swap in the lithium battery. I would buy the shop a repair manual for the $90: Service Manual for 2015-2022 RANGER EV | Polaris RANGER



Thanks,
Andrew Rianhard
@SunriseValley_
Sounds like DC to DC converter went bad, ck to see if you have 48v in and 12v going out?

Andrew Rianhard
12:05 PM (3 hours ago)
to me
The accident: Pulled out of the barn after a snow storm, locked the rear diff, and gave it the beans in low gear. The rear end spun out, and right away the machine shut down. Dash lights no longer come on. Even though the machine was at 95%, each time I turned on the key it would show the battery draining (it's now at 50%). I tried resetting the system by disconnecting the main connector under the seat, and got it to display that it was charging, and got the dash lights to come on momentarily, and headlights were working, but then I took it out of turf mode, and I think I heard a click and it went back to non-responsive with no dash lights. Disconnected the main power again once it was fully charged, yet still no dash lights. The Delta Q charger has a red flashing light under the normal yellow light.

Note: I would love to figure it out on my own if it was something easy (I already checked the one fuse box but didn't notice anything blown), but not afraid to have a Polaris shop look at it because I work a full time job and I'm not great with wiring. Will report my findings of what it happened, just in case it happens to someone else.


Background of machine and it's RWD issue: '17 Polaris Ranger EV with 120 hours- Bought it used with bad batteries (3 miles range when I bought it, but then 1.5 mile range this summer). Always worked great in 4wd or turf mode. Locking the rear would occasionally have a weird wiring issue, where the dash wouldn't illuminate (intermittent issue only). So I just used it in turf mode all the time essentially. The machine has a few wires that look corroded, or not hooked up. Primary use is moving trees & saplings around on rolling hills. Not riding on trails, just towing or doing dump loads.


Somewhat similar threads:
EV 2013 Panel lights out, stuck in AWD, no headlights (this thread has some wiring diagrams)




Battery woes- I was preparing to do a battery upgrade and achieve 6-15 miles of range for cheap. But now that I have this extra wiring expense on the farm vehicle- I'm curious of your input. Fixing the wiring, along with a lithium upgrade, just doesn't seem financially wise on my end as I start this property maintenance/landscaping business.


Take your vote on the best option for fixing the wiring and getting new batteries:
1. Take it to the dealer to have wiring fixed, and get it running again and then I swap in AGM batteries on my own. I swapped in one lead acid replacement on my own, and it wasn't that bad. AGM battery review: AGM battery conversion 1 year later


2. Have the dealer install just 4 lead acid batteries (and do lithium in 3-4 years when I have more funds). I could install the lead acids on my own, but this is the same shop who I purchase the lead acids from, so might as well have them install it. This thread made 4 batteries sound like a great option for my limited range needs: Double to Single 48v battery bank test results (however, someone said it would prematurely kill those 4 batteries. Maybe that's because they assume they would get depleted too much? I am repurposing my 8 lead acids to be solar storage to power fans in a solar kiln I'm making. So if I got this route of 4 lead acids temporarily, then I wouldn't feel that bad if they only last 3 years, since they will get another life in the kiln, as well)

3. Tow it to the dealer for the wiring issue (1.5 hours south), then tow it to the EV shop to invest into a 5-7kW lithium battery. (another 1.5 hours south of the Polaris dealer) The EV shop said it would be $4300 for a 7kW lithium battery, plus install. By I thought of presenting them the option of building their own, using the Robb Atlass DIY battery kit: DIY 14.4KWH 48v 280AH LFP Battery For Polaris Ranger EV Buy Your Own Cells - Atlas - Energy Storage Systems . What then again, if I went the 4 lead acid battery route, in 3 years when those aren't performing- I would love to do is reuse the cells from my 170K mile Chevy Volt, since it has 1-2 years left before the frame is rotten due to VT winters. I'd be parting out that car anyways.


4. Save myself a massive headache (towing logistics and extra fuel costs for 2 trips for 2 shops) and just have the EV shop try to fix the wiring, and swap in the lithium battery. I would buy the shop a repair manual for the $90: Service Manual for 2015-2022 RANGER EV | Polaris RANGER



Thanks,
Andrew Rianhard
@SunriseValley_
 
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