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Discussion Starter #1
Started getting these error codes the other day and limp mode. Back to the dealer it went and sits over the holiday weekend. Being patient so far. Read about bad plugs, bad belt, and new flash needed or causing this issue. Hopefully my new $20,000 2017 XP with $5,000 in upgrades isn't a lemon. Like I said being patient so far.
 

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RZR's having the same problem. Looks like a bad belt in most cases over there. Maybe the dealer can fix you up.

The code itself appears to be a misfire on #1 cylinder. Bad belt doesn't make sense but...
 

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RZR's having the same problem. Looks like a bad belt in most cases over there. Maybe the dealer can fix you up.

The code itself appears to be a misfire on #1 cylinder. Bad belt doesn't make sense but...
Yes it does seem to be an issue with RZRs also. I guess my only bafflement is why so many machines doing this and if it's known why not update/fix before they deliver that $20000 machine? Maybe the dealer makes a killing on the warrantee repair is my guess..
 

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Yes it does seem to be an issue with RZRs also. I guess my only bafflement is why so many machines doing this and if it's known why not update/fix before they deliver that $20000 machine? Maybe the dealer makes a killing on the warrantee repair is my guess..
With the 1000's being fairly new it will take time to work out all the bugs. 900's were the same way. And beleive it or not the dealers don't make very much money at all on warranty work. That's why they give everyone such a hard time about it and try their best to get out of the "warranty" aspect of it so they can get MORE money out of you....
 

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Call from the dealer. I have an hour glass burn in my belt that is causing the error codes listed. They said it was from belt slippage because of my not being cautious of when my tires grip and belt slips. NOT normally covered under warrantee (the belt $180). Do all UTV's do this? If so whenever the belt slips and gets notched I am liable? They said they will cover it this time. I have 16 miles which I can't believe I have driven after one 4 mile trip and 10 laps around my yard which is less than a 3/4 acre. I did drive very easy and did use plow 3 times for the inch of snow we had. I will be honest though I did stop on an incline and ease up this incline which I did hear a 2 second ratchet sound which could have been the belt slipping. This was a ditch. Didn't know anything about this major issue with a notched belt though..
Regards
Kevin
 

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Yeah its common. Once you burn one its done. And if you smoke it you need to deglaze the sheaves afterwards. It leaves a film on the sheaves and if you don't clean them it will just do it again only sooner. I use 1500 or 2000 grit sandpaper works great then clean up with mild cleaner to get all oils off.
 

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Yeah its common. Once you burn one its done. And if you smoke it you need to deglaze the sheaves afterwards. It leaves a film on the sheaves and if you don't clean them it will just do it again only sooner. I use 1500 or 2000 grit sandpaper works great then clean up with mild cleaner to get all oils off.
John
Thanks for the reply and knowledge. I can see you are going to be a help with guiding me through these new rigs. I rode a lot in the 70's where a belt change when broke, and plugs when fouled, is all you needed to keep a sled running. Its been 30 or so years since that I have had any sport ride. I am willing to learn though, and know they have more to them. I will do some work on it but only some.
Thanks again
Kevin
 

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Basic thing is you can't drive a cvt like you do a torque converter. When you start to take off you need to go and not drive like granny. I don't mean you need to jerk it around but when you mash the throttle off of idle it needs to start moving.
 

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Gotcha Rockit.....I am learning. I was hesitant to step on it a little but understand you want to engage the clutch quickly with the belt.
 

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I am new to this site, but I just picked up my newly customized Ranger XP 1000, I wanted to get some seat time in before a pay-to-ride event a couple weeks after Easter here in Eastern PA, at the 4 mile mark, I started experiencing belt slippage to the point of smoke pouring out from under the bed, and at the 10 mile mark, the check engine light came on, (thank god, I had the dealer install the LCD screen interactive display), after scrolling to diagnostics, it tells me of a Cylinder 1 misfire.
I immediately called the dealer and told him of the issues and he said I need to bring back in to have it fixed - 2 hours back to dealer!
Such BS!, my 2016 RZR XP 1000 never had these issues!
 

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Some thoughts. If you stress the belt at low RPM it will slip and when it does it will lead to limp mode and those codes. Sounds like you stressed the belt. Mine went back they replaced the belt at no charge ( this time only). Educate yourself on the clutch, belt and driving your rig in the right mode/range
 

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I just bought a 17 ranger 900 crew today. Had .4 miles when I loaded on trailer. At .6 miles the check engine light came on and it was these codes. I cleaned both spark plugs and reseated the spark plug wires. Rode it today a little and no more check engine so far. I'll ride it a bunch next weekend so I can see how it does before warranty expires.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
 

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Isn't that the same misfire code the RZR Turbos had? My friend called me all freaked out cause his brand new RZR Turbo threw the code and I told him to replace the spark plugs like most owners have said on the RZR Forum and boom code gone.
 

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I too have had "Check Engine" light with error code 65590 (with a 7 above the 9 and a 1 below the 9) on my new (1 hr on it!) 2018 Ranger XP 1000 EPS. The 3rd time with the dealer they replaced the belt and the error code disappeared. The original belt had some glazing on it that caused some slippage.

Polaris highly suggests Low gear during break in and varying speeds between 5-20 mph.

Like others, I never had a problem with my Sportsman 700 EFI.

Something tells me I'm going to have to learn how to change a belt for myself on this model. Any suggestions on belt replacement videos for new Rangers?
 

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have read many posts concerning engine code 65590, but, I think my situation is a little different...?

I have a 2019 Ranger 1000 XP. Long story short I took unit in for a service due to a "whining" when in motion about 6 weeks ago. There was a service advisory for the primary clutch concerning the rollers and 1-way bearing. Mine were bad and had failed. They replaced them. Since that service, I get a check engine light with code 65590 about 30 seconds after I start it only when the engine is cold (not ambient temperature). It is a true misfire as I can hear the Ranger change and start missing. I shut it off, restart and drive for about 1/4 mile and the check engine goes off. If the engine is warm it will sit and idle indefinitely with no miss or check engine light. If I start it cold, put it in neutral, rev the motor to about 2500-3000 rpm for a minute it will not happen.

I have taken the unit back to the dealer three times since for the same misfire issue. 1st trip back they said the belt had grease on it from the replacement parts being over greased. They replaced the belt and said the issue was solved. Next cold start I experienced the same issue, misfire. 2nd trip back they said that they replaced the bearing again... same misfire issue the next cold start. 3rd trip back they replaced plugs and plug wires, inspected the belt and bearing again. They kept it two days just to verify the issues was resolved... First cold start, check engine and misfire again.

I've lost faith in my service center, looking for advice as to where to go from here.
 

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This is a common problem and is usually caused by an overly sensitive ecu program or a glazed or hourglassed belt or a bad spark plug.
The misfire doesn't hurt anything unless it is persistent. I would drive it a few days and see if the problem goes away. If it doesn't I guess you could go to a different dealer.
My owners manual says to raise the engine rpm a few times while the engine is warming up to engage the clutch and warm the belt a little bit. This is what I do and I haven't had the problem. If you time it just right maybe you won't get the code.
I think Gilomen Innovations has a tune for the ecm to reduce the sensitivity if you want to pay to have it fixed.
 

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Thanks. You are correct, if I keep the RPM's up until the engine is warm I don't get the check engine light. Belt, plugs, plug wires and 1-way bearing have all been replaced (twice on the bearing). My original 1-way bearing was failing, all of the replaced components look excellent with no evidence of wear or misfire.

I never had this issue until the first service, why would replacing the 1-way bearing affect the ECU tune?
 

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Replacing the bearing didn't affect the ECU tune.
The dealer doesn't have a fix for this problem. It is a Polaris tune problem unless the dealer messed up some wiring or ??.
It might just be coincidence that the miss started after they worked on it.
Did you change grades of gas or did the weather get colder?
Are you using regular 87 octane gas or premium?
Regular is recommended especially in cold weather.
You might check to make sure the intake boots aren't leaking.
 

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My Ranger is 10 months old. It's seen cold and hot weather before with no issues. To be clear, I'm not referring to ambient temperature (it doesn't seem to have any effect on this issue), I'm referring to engine temperature. My gut tells me the my first shop visit is a direct relation to the check engine light/misfire, but you are correct it could be coincidence. Same fuel as day one, 87 octane.

Intake boots.... Now that you mention it I found the air filter boot loose and tightened it. They said that it wasn't doing it at the shop, I left it there two extra days for them to perform cold starts. That's the only thing different since I brought it home...
 
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