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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Help! Ranger EV 2013

All the panel lights are out. Headlights not working. Stuck in 4wd or AWD. Otherwise, it works fine (forward/reverse, three speed ranges). Fuse box and 3-fuse stub seem fine. I have not been able to remove the Main Power Connector (and don't they make that so easy to reach).

Here are two keys to the diagnosis: When I replaced the batteries, I connected the passenger-side "12V" mystery wire (mystery because I have never seen any official reference or picture of it or its twin on the drivers side and is that 12V positive or negative?) to the wrong battery (resulting in 48volts). The panel lights were VERY bright. For a while.

Second key to diagnosis: The 3-terminal "Auxiliary 12V Terminal Board (EV-LSV?) shows 14V and 0V with switch off and 28V and 0V with switch on. That's not right, but where is the problem?

I KNOW there is someone out there who can identify what the heck I've done wrong.
Maybe the mystery wire needs to go to the negative terminal??? It was corroded and separated when I found it. Bad guess on my part.

Help!
 

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Help! Ranger EV 2013

All the panel lights are out. Headlights not working. Stuck in 4wd or AWD. Otherwise, it works fine (forward/reverse, three speed ranges). Fuse box and 3-fuse stub seem fine. I have not been able to remove the Main Power Connector (and don't they make that so easy to reach).
The controller is looking for 0V on the FWD/AWD signal. The switch is used to 'pull it down to 0V'. If it is locked in 4wd/AWD, you have a problem similar to mine. .. but not quite.

I have not figured it out as yet. My 2011 is OK in 2WD or Turf until I get to about .. 20 kph. Then sometimes it decides to engage the front differential and sometimes it doesn't. It does disengage .. usually .. when I slow down.

It does this regardlesss of whether the plug is disconnected from the solenoid on the front differential.

Here are two keys to the diagnosis: When I replaced the batteries, I connected the passenger-side "12V" mystery wire (mystery because I have never seen any official reference or picture of it or its twin on the drivers side and is that 12V positive or negative?) to the wrong battery (resulting in 48volts). The panel lights were VERY bright. For a while.
I'd guess light bulbs are burnt on the switches and the dash. But that should not affect operation of your AWD

Second key to diagnosis: The 3-terminal "Auxiliary 12V Terminal Board (EV-LSV?) shows 14V and 0V with switch off and 28V and 0V with switch on. That's not right, but where is the problem?

I KNOW there is someone out there who can identify what the heck I've done wrong.
Maybe the mystery wire needs to go to the negative terminal??? It was corroded and separated when I found it. Bad guess on my part.

Help!
I think that your 12V is still OK. If it wasn't, your controller would not allow High or Low speeds, just Medium. I have had forward and reverse .. sort of work .. with the 12V really low. Whatever issue you may have caused with 48V instead of 12V, I don't think it damaged your DC/DC converter.

If you find a problem with the front differential, please post. I've been struggling with this thing for a while now. So far, I pulled the differential apart, cleaned and lubed, then put it back together. No change. I have another front dif I can change it out to. I have not gotten that far. Not enough spare time to play!
 

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Help! Ranger EV 2013

All the panel lights are out. Headlights not working. Stuck in 4wd or AWD. Otherwise, it works fine (forward/reverse, three speed ranges). Fuse box and 3-fuse stub seem fine. I have not been able to remove the Main Power Connector (and don't they make that so easy to reach).

Here are two keys to the diagnosis: When I replaced the batteries, I connected the passenger-side "12V" mystery wire (mystery because I have never seen any official reference or picture of it or its twin on the drivers side and is that 12V positive or negative?) to the wrong battery (resulting in 48volts). The panel lights were VERY bright. For a while.

I KNOW there is someone out there who can identify what the heck I've done wrong.
Maybe the mystery wire needs to go to the negative terminal??? It was corroded and separated when I found it. Bad guess on my part.

Help!
Here is the drawing for the mystery wires, they supply 12 volts to the Constant Power terminal and Charge Status Indicator:

Text Diagram Design Font Parallel



This shows the 12v Bat pink wires connection to the fuse block and to the Constant Power terminal

Text Plan Floor plan Diagram Drawing



This shows cabling and series string voltage to ground on the motor controller, the frame is not grounded to the battery pack:

Text Diagram Line Font Parallel


Second key to diagnosis: The 3-terminal "Auxiliary 12V Terminal Board (EV-LSV?) shows 14V and 0V with switch off and 28V and 0V with switch on. That's not right, but where is the problem?
You didn't say which terminal has voltage and which is 0v?

The top terminal should be 0v key off and 14v key on.

Motor vehicle Auto part Engine Vehicle Car



Stuck in 4wd or AWD.
The DC to DC converter has to output 14v to pull in the solenoid to unlock the rear differential. Verify there is 14v on the yellow wire in the connector on the converter.
 

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I just bought a used 2013 ev the head lights don't
work and not sure if awd does but there is no light in the switch. Also the cover of the fuse box is missing. Does any one have a pic of the diagram on top of the cover that they can send me?
 

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I've got a similar problem, see my post made 3 days ago, and I can't get any power from the Switched accessories. None of them work. I've checked and replaced 2 blown fuses, and don't know if I should be looking at a "diode" in one of the connections, or something that's blown at the ignition switch. I know what diodes are, they keep current going in only 1 direction, but where are they and what do the look like? Could the switch be the issue?
 

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wsscott
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Discussion Starter · #1 · 3 d ago

I was pushing snow yesterday with my blade which is hydraulic left right and uses the winch. While pushing I used the winch and it stopped working. The vehicle runs fine, but now none of the switched accessories work, ie. the blade angle, the winch, or the headlights. This happened last year and it was a couple of blown fuses. I've checked the fuses, and found 1 blown 2A fuse in the battery area under the cargo bay that was blown, but replacing it didn't help. I talked to the dealer shop guy and he tried to help but I had already tried everything he suggested. The "live power" accessory works, but there's no power at the Switch Power Strip bar so the Switched Power Accessories don't work. PLEASE HELP. Thanks.


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wsscott
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Discussion Starter · #2 · 3 d ago

Oh, yea I forgot to mention that the headlights no longer work-of course they are a Switched Accessory.


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boilermkr
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2014 Ranger EV
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#3 · 3 d ago (Edited)

The headlights yes work off the top post switched key or when key on. It is supplied by the converter. Check that you have 14v at the top post w key on. The bottom is 12v constant and is supplied by one of the pink wires running to a specific battery to get only 12v and has a 2 amp fuse. Both are 10amp max. Check fuses in the fuse box under the hood and the 48V fuse center which is the fuse holder behind and under the contactor. The middle fuse is for charger one of the outside goes to the contactor. If no volts on 3 prong buss bar check voltage in and out of converter. 48 in 12 out. It’s marked on the converter in n out


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wsscott
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Discussion Starter · #4 · 3 d ago

All of my fuses are good--one 2 A was blown but I replaced that. The #1 position on the auxilliary buss bar, which is the + Switched wiring position, shows no power when the ignition switch is turned on. The #3 position on the buss bar, which is the + Unswitched wiring position, shows 12VDC. I just disconnected the Main Power connection, thinking maybe it would reset something. I'll let you know. Any other ideas in case the reset doesn't work?


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Discussion Starter · #5 · 3 d ago

I reconnected the Main Power connection, and no change. I jumped the winch at its connection with the Unswitched prong on the buss bar and it retracts/releases as normal. Just doesn't respond to the Switched position. Something is blocking power going to the Switched Prong on the buss.


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Discussion Starter · #6 · 1 d ago

So I got the winch to work by connecting its power lead to the Unswitched Power prong of the accessory buss bar, but I still can't get the Plow Angle Control to work. I haven't solved the problem with no response of Accessories hooked through the Switched prong of the buss, but thought I could do the same thing with the Plow Angle power supply by connecting both the Plow Harness Power line as well as the Plow Angle Control harness Power line to the Unswitch 12V supply on the buss. But even when I make that connection, the plow angle control doesn't respond! What's going on? Is there a problem in having both of those power connections (ie. the power leads to the Plow Harness and the Plow Control) on the same Unswitched Power source at the accessory buss bar? Doesn't make sense. What am I doing wrong? Thanks.


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Chris 047
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#7 · 1 d ago

I believe boilermaker stated 10 amp max on those buss terminals, how many amps are you trying to pull thru ?


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wsscott
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Discussion Starter · #8 · 1 d ago

much less than that, plus it’s just short bursts of use, and it only needs 12 VDC, so not much amp draw should be possible I would think. No power is being used until you change the blade angle or use the winch to raise or lower the blade. The wiring harness for the plow angle controller has an in-line fuse (and it’s still good), plus 2 relays-1 for each angle directional button. So it’s a well protected circuit.


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Chris 047
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#9 · 1 d ago

I have seen other folks setting up their winched ev vehicles with a separate / dedicated battery for winch use only. I figured too low of amperage from the accessory bar to properly operate the winch was the reason. It should be easy enough to check the amp draw required for your winch.


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Discussion Starter · #10 · 1 d ago

The winch runs fine. I assume its not drawing any voltage when its not being used. And I'm not using it at the same time as I'm using the plow angle motor. Its just that I can't get the plow angle to respond at all. Like something in the circuit is dead. I can't imagine its both of the relays. I can hear them click. Its probably something stupid I've overlooked.


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#11 · 9 h ago

Connect your winch contactor and remote to your winch battery


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wsscott
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Discussion Starter · #12 · 6 h ago

I don't have a separate accessory battery. They all run off the main set. That's been fine for the last 2+ years, and the winch is working when I wire it to the UnSwitched terminal. Also, the Service Manual which I purchased states that the Switched and UnSwitched Power supplies both share the same 10A fuse.


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#13 · 2 h ago

wsscott said:
Also, the Service Manual which I purchased states that the Switched and UnSwitched Power supplies both share the same 10A fuse.
What year is your EV?

Voltronics 160Ah Li-ion conversion kit is installed in my 2013 EV.

Hold the Control key down and click on a picture or a link, or a Thread, to open it in a new Tab.


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Discussion Starter · #14 · 2 h ago

2020


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#15 · 45 m ago

It is hard to believe your winch draws less than 10 amps.

In previous year models, with the key on the switched voltage should be about 14 volts, it comes from the DC to DC converter through a 10 amp fuse.
The constant voltage should be just over 12 volts and there are three 2 amp fuses in the circuit.



Motor vehicle Gas Automotive exterior Engineering Auto part




Voltronics 160Ah Li-ion conversion kit is installed in my 2013 EV.

Hold the Control key down and click on a picture or a link, or a Thread, to open it in a new Tab.


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Discussion Starter · #16 · a moment ago

I have a WARN Vantage 2000 winch that uses 12V power supply. It doesn't say what size fuse to use. It was connected to the Switched terminal on the Accessory Buss, but when the circuit got overloaded pushing some snow and putting either too much stress on the winch or on the plow angle motor, I lost power at the Switched terminal--That's what I've been trying to figure out how to fix, but no luck so far. So temporarily, I moved the winch power over to the 12V B+ terminal so I could raise and lower the snow blade. So not really any major stress on it to consume a lot of amps. I'll move it back to the Switched terminal when I get power there, but I've checked and replaced a couple of blown 2A fuses, but the other fuses are fine. So I can't figure out why I'm not getting power from the Switched terminal when I turn the Key to On. Nothing happens including lights or the plow control. Any ideas on what to check for the lack of Power? Could the "Ignition" Switch have failed? How do I test that? Thanks.


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Discussion Starter · #17 · a moment ago

OK, I just checked out the voltages on the Sevcon. With the key turned On, I have 50+VDC going in, but only 0.4VDC coming out. I'm reading only mv at the Switched terminal when the Key is On.


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No I haven't done that. Which pins are hot for the input and output, and what do you use for the GND? Thanks.

OK, I just checked out the voltages on the Sevcon. With the key turned On, I have 50+VDC going in, but only 0.4VDC coming out. I'm reading only mv at the Switched terminal when the Key is On.
No I haven't done that. Which pins are hot for the input and output, and what do you use for the GND? Thanks.
 

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No I haven't done that. Which pins are hot for the input and output, and what do you use for the GND? Thanks.
Place voltmeter probes on the two back terminals . (Positive is the wire further back and negative is the wire in front of the positive) you should be getting around 48-52 volts. Then check the voltage of the two front wires( the wire up front is the positive and the one right behind it is the negative) you should get 12-14 volts with the ignition on. If you have any qyyou can call me .217430 3101
 
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