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Discussion Starter #1
Since I bought this 2016 EV, there is a front right rattle at high speeds. I was hoping it was the brake shoes but it is not as all four wheels have tension springs in place and pressing the brake pedal does not stop the noise.

Has anyone had this rattle on their EV and discovered the source? Thanks.
 

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I might suggest opening the hood while stationary and vigorously shaking the steering back and forth to check for a loose tie rod end. May not be possible to see so you might need a helper.

Then bounce the suspension up and down vigorously to see if there is any looseness in the upper strut mount or lower a-arm bushings.

Another possible culprit is the right side CV joints. Not too likely on one this new. You could trouble shoot these by raising just the right front wheel and rotating it back and forth while watching the joints for any signs of play or noises.
 

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Nevermind.... All except for the last part. Took mine out on the pavement today for some max speed running in max range. Whaddya know, I have what I bet is the exact same rattle, except in the LEFT front.

Stopped, opened the hood and shook each one of the axle shafts. They both rattled with the same sounds, as near as I could tell, at the joint between the inner CV joint and the front gear housing. Evidently this joint is just not very tight from the factory. Probably some good reason. It is quite annoying, even more so now that you have brought it to my OCD attention!!

:tickedoff: ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks! I will check this out in the morning and post the results.
 

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amazing the squeaks and noises of mechanical working parts when there is no gas engine noise. mine has a pop when it first moves then goes away until you stop and move again. changed out everything on the front suspension but the strut . still does it. new tires, bearings, super saves bushings in a arms, pivot bearing, shocks, and tie rod ends. I've come to accept that some can b solved others just have to accept moving parts make noise.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Occasionally I get that pop too when stationary, turning the wheel and accelerating forward. If you solve the mystery, let me know the source. Thanks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Does the noise diminish when the EV is on four wheel drive? If it does its normal and the rattling is from the front differential cage.. They all have it to some degree.
 

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amazing the squeaks and noises of mechanical working parts when there is no gas engine noise. mine has a pop when it first moves then goes away until you stop and move again. changed out everything on the front suspension but the strut . still does it. new tires, bearings, super saves bushings in a arms, pivot bearing, shocks, and tie rod ends. I've come to accept that some can b solved others just have to accept moving parts make noise.
Me, too, on my 2013 EV. I've learned to, if not ignore it, live with it.
 

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Does the noise diminish when the EV is on four wheel drive? If it does its normal and the rattling is from the front differential cage.. They all have it to some degree.
I'll test this on mine. My guess is that it will definitely at least CHANGE the noise in some way simply because the loading on the CV joint and axles will be different.

I also have a hunch that if me and Capn played around with our front tire pressures just a bit, that we could make it change from the left to the right or vice versa.
 

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One thing you might Che k is if it stops when you apply a little pressure to the brakes it is possibly the pads. So remedy this place a thin shim between the brake pads holes that are square. The brake pad holes are square and the rods they ride on are round. Common for them to rattle on the front. Go figure square on round
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You were spot on the source of my front end rattle YRobyn. The right front drive axle has play in it and I can rattle it by hand. The left is a little tighter and no noise at top end speed on that side. I am changing wheels and tires this summer and hope it may reduce the noise?

Lou in 2 wheel and 4 wheel drive the speed is down to about half of top end and there is no noise. Only when in high and one wheel drive does the drive shaft rattle.

Boilermkr, I pulled the front wheels and they have tension springs from the factory. I did try the brakes at top end and it did not help.
 

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It would be nice to know if this could be fairly easily corrected with some shimming or something. With yours being quite new, maybe the dealer would help. Or at least send in a query/complaint to Polaris.
 

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Looking at the service manual, there is apparently nothing holding the front axle shafts ("drive shafts") in the front gearcase except being held from moving very much outward by the struts and a "spring ring".

Removal:
8. Pull strut assembly out while pivoting front drive shaft
downward until it clears strut assembly.
9. Pull shaft sharply outward to remove. Repeat if necessary
until drive shaft is released from front gearcase.
10. See “DRIVE SHAFT SERVICE” on page 5.27.

And then:
Front Drive Shaft Installation
1. Install new spring ring on drive shaft. Apply an anti-seize
compound to splines. Align splines of drive shaft with
front gearcase and install by lightly tapping on drive shaft
with rubber faced hammer.
2. Install drive shaft into strut housing.

So what we are hearing is the "drive shaft" spline slop.
 

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But then there is this:

Fine-Tuning Backlash Adjustment For Noise Reduction
Perform this fine-tuning adjustment of backlash setting only if
noise is evident after the gearcase is installed and tested. Note
there are two procedures based on the type of noise detected.
• Adjustments should be made in very small movements
of the backlash adjustment screw (about 1/32 turn at a
time).
• 1/32 turn removes or adds approximately .001 in.
(.025mm) of backlash at the ring gear.
• Test the vehicle after each adjustment.
• Damage or added noise can result from improper
adjustment. Be sure to follow the guidelines in the
adjustment procedures.
• Identify the type of noise as described below and
perform the appropriate fine-tuning adjustment that
follows.

Rattle or clicking noise at higher speeds when in two-wheel
drive (2WD)

1. Turn the backlash adjustment screw in (clockwise) 1/32 of
a turn.
2. Test drive vehicle to re-evaluate noise performance.
3. If noise is still present, turn the screw in an additional 1/32
turn and re-test. DO NOT continue to make adjustments.
Anything more than this may result in slight binding of the
gear onto the front shim and may cause excessive wear on
the thrust button and shim.

Gear mesh noise in 2WD or 4WD:
1. Turn the backlash adjustment screw out (counterclockwise)
1/32 of a turn.
2. Test drive vehicle to re-evaluate noise performance.
3. If noise is still present, turn the screw in an additional 1/32
turn and re-test. Repeat the procedure if necessary up to a
maximum of 1/8 turn out from the base setting (4
increments of 1/32 turn each time). DO NOT continue to
make adjustments past 1/8 turn or the rattle / clicking noise
previously mentioned could result.

I believe that the noises that the manual is referring to is ring/pinion lash noise, which I DON'T think is what we are hearing IMHO. Rather than risk damage to the front gearcase, I think I'll leave mine alone and try to get accustomed to the rattle! Or tighten it just the tinyest bit and see what effect it has. The backlash screw is a hex screw in a recess on the passenger side, middle rear side of the gearcase. Manual says it has RED Loctite, so will require a heat gun to move.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for the information. Waiting on a 2016 manual to become available but probably no change from your year model to mine. For now, I will live with it. The dealer I bought it from in out of state but plan to call and talk to a mechanic about the issue as they sell and service a lot of EV Rangers.
 

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heya, if you end up having to replace the CV joint (which - I agree with others, sounds like a possibility) try AmericanCVStore.com - theyve got a good range of aftermarket parts.
 

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Would someone explain what is backlash. I've read that section also as I have a 2011 and 2014. I bet the front gearcase hasn't changed from different model years.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Update on my front end rattle. After getting my 2015/2016 EV shop manual, I adjusted the front drive differential set screw in an 1/8 of a turn, test drove, until the rattle stopped. I can run on high/turf mode and is completely quite now. I found the adjustment screw backed out a long way with no loctite on it. I could reach down and grab the right drive shaft, shake it, and duplicate the rattle so I knew it was too loose. I bought the EV used so I do not know if it came from the factory that far out. There is another procedure to adjust the backlash that requires taking the differential apart and making the adjustments to the set screw while off. It does state that over tightening can cause premature ware on the rings inside. I took that risk and time will tell if i made the right decision.
 

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when you describe shaking the right drive shaft are u referring to the axle shaft w cv boots?
 
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