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I have a 2003 Ranger, series 11, carbed, with external fuel pump. "Junior" ran great until this spring. The fuel pump stopped operating: ie, didn't prime when ignition was turned on. Wanting to save some money, I opted for an aftermarket pump. It worked for about 2 weeks, and then exhibited the same signs of failure. I then decided to change out the pump with a polaris pump. I replaced the pump 2 weeks ago. Today the result is the same. The Ranger wants not to start and I do not hear the pump operating. Has anyone seen this symptom and have an idea as to why these pump appear to fail. The fuel line is new. The filter is new. The tank vent is clear. I have tested the the elec to the pump with a test light, but not a multimeter. Could a reduction of VDC to the pump cause a failure which would indicate a module problem? Any help would be appreciated. Jim:(
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'll check that out. It seems that it wasn't shutting off the instant I turned the key off. Perhaps that's the ignition switch?
 

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Could be. You can check where the wiring harness plugs onto the ignition switch. My buddy had one that kept getting dirty, it helped to unplug and plug it a few times.
 

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2003 Ranger 6x6 : I have the same basic problem, my fuel pump does NOT run with the stock setup anymore, but if I disconnect the wires and run 12 Volts (spare battery and jumper wires) directly to the fuel pump it primes and works.
What could my problem be?
 

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2003 Ranger 6x6 : I have the same basic problem, my fuel pump does NOT run with the stock setup anymore, but if I disconnect the wires and run 12 Volts (spare battery and jumper wires) directly to the fuel pump it primes and works.
What could my problem be?
I understand this is an old post but I was wondering if you got it fixed an if so what the problem was I'm new to the utv community an this same thing is happening to mine
 

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2014 Ranger 6x6
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Even though I don't have this issue...yet (probably), like sjrudy did - start tracing individual components, wires and connectors. Not hard to do, just takes time. From experience with many vehicles, I'd check connections first (static and moving them around), then visual check on wires, then components, then finally do a continuity check on the wires while moving them around.

Most times stuff like this happens it's either the component going on the fritz, or a connection that's bad.
 
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