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Discussion Starter #1
Hey , new to the 4 wheel EV game been a EV 2 wheel guy for a couple years (Ebikes conversion and small EV motocross).

I love the Ranger BTW... it's silent it's perfect for what we do with it.

It worked good for a 1 month then the charger gave the famous 6 blink.. I didn't look online and did my own troubleshooting and found the faulty connector (that you call MCA?). I I only bend the tab in the connector and cleaned it and it began charging right away, so the next day after a 10 hour charge, I went to inspect the connector and it was burning hot so I unplugged the charger, ordered a 40a 72VDC breaker online and bypassed the MPC and the fuse, used the right crimps and even used 8awg wires (my ring terminals were for 8awg and bigger... so I overkilled it)

Plugged in the charger in and it kicked in, 18A were flowing on the clamp meter, and my new connection was working great. All good, packed my tools and came back 10min to find the charger dead, lo lights on it... WTF

AC breaker int he house was tripped, flipped the breaker on and it tripped again. (dedicated 15amp breaker).. AC extension is new, 12awg and only 20 feet long.

Opened the charger and the slow blow fuse next to the AC input was blown, changed the fuse to another 20amp and plugged the charger in the wall and the fuse blew along with the small SMD resistor next to the coil. And that horrible smell of burnt electronics.

So looks like something went wrong.. no clue what it is. I'm an electronic tech.. specialized in ebikes.. so I understand how chargers, controller and motors work, but I don't have time to spend troubleshooting the whole charger and don't have any internal diagram.

So right now it's charging on a 52V 5A Li-ion charger just to get some juice in the packs till I find a replacement charger.

So what is so special about the QuiQ charger? I'm used to Li-ion, li-po, lifepo4 cells that only needs a 2 stage charger: CC & CV and then turns off. .... I know charging lead acid is a bit more complex with 4 up to 9 stages.... So can I replace it with dual NOCO 4x charger.. basically charging the cell batts individually (while still connected in series and parallel) I know it's possible. Or could I simply get another charger like this NOCO GX4820 industrial 20a charger with what looks to have the same kind of features and stages?

Any pros and cons or alternatives? I read that the OEM Quiq charger is like 1000USD.. and when I opened it I was not impressed AT ALL, I need better constructed chargers for a fraction of this one ( have a 60V 10A Sur-Ron motorcycle charger that is 125$ and built like a rock).. so I would ratter spend less on something better. Do I really need a specific charge algoririth for using US12VRX packs? TY
 

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Basically the difference is it has the proper connections to the EV harness. Only available from Polaris for 964.00. Works the dash charge indicator. There are companies that repair them. Flight Industrial Products is one. I have a new in box Deltaq with molecular connectors to connect directly to the Polaris harness. Will sell for 600.00 plus shipping. You can use a 48 volt golf cart charger wired directly to the batteries. Lester Summitt II is a good one, also Dusl pro make onboard and table mount chargers. Just be sure it is 48v 18 amps. you lose the dash charge indicator. Depends on you if that’s a big deal or not. You can buy a onboard charger and mount it where the DeltaQ is or off board and connect it to the cart when your ready to charge. They run about 300-350.00.
 

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I offer my Li Ion conversion customers the Zivan SG6 as a replacement 2kw charger. You have to add some additional heatsink, but they will fit into the std space the Deltaq fits into. But as its higher output I also run a new cable back to the live post on the contactor and a new negative. With fuse in the line. Simply bypassing the old lead. It does not however directly interface with the dash charge light, and you have to add a separate interface to do that. So far no customer has wanted to spend the extra cost of that. Just opting for a mains indicator on the dash. The sg6 do need to be set up for the battery being used, (uses same IXXAT Can bus device as DVT) and have options of multiple stages of charge. So can cover all forms of lead and Li Ion with just CC/ CV. There are not many suitable sealed chargers generally available. Although having seen many Deltaq with internal water damage ( I have 3 with me now), I would hesitate to call the Deltaq a water resistant product. They clearly are not.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the responses, so basically the difference between the 965$ OEM one with this 350$ Quiq charger : Delta-Q QuiQ On-Board 48V Battery Charger 912-4800

Is the relay output to disable the controller while charging and the SOC meter on the dash?

Well if it's the case I'll wire the generic one (that I can get for even cheaper than 350usd (around 300$ new), properly waterproof it , can even mount fan to cool it off, set the algo to 11 or 72 and get a SOC meter with a shunt, I'll wire the meter to be on while charging and discharging to get an accurate Ah/Wh reading.
Something like this maybe.. it's only 500a but we don't climb much, we don't pull much and probably will never hit the 500A for more than a sec.


So the difference with the NOCO is the battery desulfation feature yes? if there alternatives or should I spend 600 to get the Noco GX instead of getting the exact same but generic Quiq? Is desulfation really needed on this ranger? IF there is a short answer please explain.. is not I'll read some more in the coming week but I still need to make a quick decision, I need that charger here within a week (I'm in Canada).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Finally bought a Delta Q charger again new for 300$ shipped on Ebay and bought a 500A shunt and power meter for 70$ to replace the original awful fuel gauge. ... I need to find the right wire gauge for the ground wire from the last batt pack to the controller... anyone knows? looks like 1/0AWG if I had to guess. and maybe 2awg for the battery inter links?
 

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I use 1/0
 

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Which shunt battery monitor did u get
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I bought this kit, good for 500a nominal (probably about 350a continuous or 2/3 of the nominal rating) and can take a peak of 750A So looks perfect for the Ranger!

 

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Discussion Starter #10
@boilermkr you did said 3 months ago that you need 2/0 wires for battery to controller? so is it 2/0 or 1/0 for controller +,-?

 

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Check which way it has to be wired. I have units that go in both the + and the - main power lines. So
If positive line This has to go right back to the main contactor where the power feed goes to and from the battery pack. Existing battery cable goes on the battery side of the shunt and a new cable from the shunt to the main contactor live.
If negative line , the current - lead to the sevcon (common neutral point) goes to the shunt and a new line from the shunt to the sevcon.
All connections must be crimped, not soldered.
 

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In the post you refer to from astropower he is referring to the small cables between batteries. I use 1/0 for large cable for mega battery to controller snd to make short cable to attach the shunt for AiLi 350 amp battery monitor
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You said "2/0 cable is overkill for between batteries but necessary for batteries to controller, contactor, and motor."

Necessary between the batt and controller... Sorry for all the questions, I just want to order the wires up front, I work in the city but my Ranger is 2 hour drive away so can't have a peek at the wire size. Just want to be sure that 1/0 will do fine.

Thx Grumpyb, i got it, I wired a few of them on home made battery discharge stations for li-ion ebike batt packs.
 
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