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Discussion Starter #1
I am installing the power steering unit and had to remove the floor board. After talking with ranger 29.5 I decided to take a look at the exhaust on my belt cover. It drops down right behing your legs so it would be very easy to take on water. It is coupled with a rubber jointing piece you can find at hardware stores. So today I will be going to Lowes and buy some fittings to take it down to a size of hose I can run up under the hoods as all the others are. I don't know why Polaris didn't go the extra step to do this mod. They run Air Intake, and Belt Intake but that was it. I will get some pictures up later.
 

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josh please post some pics i am wanting to do the same thing i have rased my to intakes under the hood about 5 inch and i am wanting to run my belt exhuast under there to so i need some pic on how to do it
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I purchased my accessories from Lowes. I purchased a 2" pvc coupling, a 2" to 1" reducer and a half a stick of 1" pvc. The 1" PVC is was cut about 4" . Leave enough of the 1" sticking out to attach the hose. The hose is a heavy duty spiral hose. And you will need to hose clamps. I checked the flow of the belt's air coming out the restriction was not enough for me to try to go with 2 hoses or 1 bigger hose. Total cost was 35.00

My parts:



Reducer and Coupling glued up and in place:



 

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Discussion Starter #5
I went under the radiator hose by the aluminum shield, and ran my hose down by the intake snorkel:



You have to rotate this picture to see it right. But I ran the hose under the differential and back over. This clears anything from rubbing. I then wire tied everything in place.

 

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Discussion Starter #6
I had to trim the underhood plastic where the floorboard plastic meets. This is to allow the hose to pass through and to be placed under the hood.



This is where I placed mine under the hood.

 

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Discussion Starter #7
If you for some reason get heat build up from this, you could leave it disconnected until you plan on going in the deep stuff. I suppose I could have added a Tee and had a ball valve to turn for ease.

Hope this helps.
 

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Keep one thing in mind when down sizing the outlet size you will raise your clutch and belt temperatures.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes I have and also have added a t-with a ball valve so I can let the air flow normally until I get in the deep stuff. I will get pictures of that soon.
 

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Just a caution. When working with the fluid dynamics of pneumatics (air flow), do not reduce the size of either the input or output tubes on the belt cooler. Because you are increasing the friction on the column of air by adding additional length to the hose you should increase the hose size by at least 3/8 of an inch over the ID on the OEM fittings.

Take a look at the venting system on the new Teryx, and you will see how they upped the vent sizes to reduce belt heating problems. The same thing applies here, only ours are faster and a lot tougher on the belts! I know the RZR is faster, I kissed a sneaky tree racing against my kid's Teryx. Not to worry, I really tromped him right out of the hole and clear through a quarter mile before the stealth tree snuck out and attacked my front fender! Then he had the nerve to complain about parts of RZR fender and tree bark sailing by as he tried to catch me.

Back to the issue. If you have a laser thermometer and know some Teryx victim run the RZR and the Teryx hard for about an hour and shoot the case temps on the back side of the belt. The RZR runs nearly 120 degrees hotter. Open up those vents, and the RZR will still run about 70 degrees hotter simply because the Teryx has a bigger fan on the back of the primary and can more more air.

I figure this air flow issue will become critical come summer when the air temps are in the 90's and 100's instead of the 30's.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Very good points, I have thought of leaving the tube off until I get in water. If in water the housing will be cooled and then can be removed afterwards.
 

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I was wondering why there were vents on the belt housing, I learn something about my Ranger about everyday here. Anyway would there be a problem running the engine air intake and the belt air intake off of the same snorkel tube????? Or would it be better to run them separate????
 

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I would run the belt housing breather tube, the intake and crankcase breather tube all seperate. the belt housing actually blows out hot air, something you don't want going into your engine.
 

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Double tubed it will be,now my next question since there might be a slight positive pressure on the belt tube. Would that be the best one to plumb in the axle and tranny vents also???
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I am working with an engineer on coming up with a good tube to snorkle the belt exhaust. I think what I have done would work fine if you use it for just getting in deep water. But not running it all the time. I would like an exhaust tube that is big enogh I don't have to worry about switching it back and forth.
 

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I have briefly looked at the option of running the exhaust hose back toward the rear and up inside of the front of the bed wall. There is a gap in the bed wall and the black plastic could possibly be cut allowing the tube to exhaust between the bed and seat back. If it could be done this way, the tube would be much shorter than routing it to the front of the Ranger. This concept needs further examining to see if it can be done.

Colby
 

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Discussion Starter #19
No luck with a tube. Now if it had bucket front seats then you could run your tube up through the center console.
 
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