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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm having a really hard time understanding how to wire a switch (a five pin switch, like the stock switches) from the pulse bar. The thing is I only want the switch to light up and it to provide power to the light bar or whatever I use it for when the ignition is turned on. I don't want the switch working while the ignition is off and although I've watched several YouTube videos, none seem to explain how to wire the three (red,yellow, black) wires from under the hood and on the pulse bar to the back of the five pin switch to achieve what I want, which is basically it just working like a stock switch (only when the Ranger ignition is on). Please please help!!! 馃檹馃徏

Many thanks to anyone who can explain how to do this so a moron like myself can understand.
 

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Are you wiring just a switch or are you using a relay as well?

The proper way is to wire a relay as well. IIRC, the black is ground, red is 12V battery, and yellow 12V ignition. You can use a DMM to check to be sure.

Typical 5 pin switch (did yours come with a wiring pinout?)


Typical relay wiring:


So you have 2 circuits connected together with the relay.

The first is the low power side (lighted switch). Use the 12V ignition for this circuit. Wire 12V ignition to pins 2&6 on the switch. Wire pin 3 on the switch to pin 86 on relay. Wire pins 7&8 on the switch, and pin 85 on relay, to ground. The 12V ignition already has a built in fuse, so no other fuse is needed on this circuit.

The second is the high power side (the light itself). Use the 12V battery for this circuit. Wire 12V battery to pin 30 on relay. Wire pin 87 on relay to the positive side of light. Wire the negative side of light to ground. You should also have a fuse on this circuit for protection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Are you wiring just a switch or are you using a relay as well?

The proper way is to wire a relay as well. IIRC, the black is ground, red is 12V battery, and yellow 12V ignition. You can use a DMM to check to be sure.

Typical 5 pin switch (did yours come with a wiring pinout?)


Typical relay wiring:


So you have 2 circuits connected together with the relay.

The first is the low power side (lighted switch). Use the 12V ignition for this circuit. Wire 12V ignition to pins 2&6 on the switch. Wire pin 3 on the switch to pin 86 on relay. Wire pins 7&8 on the switch, and pin 85 on relay, to ground. The 12V ignition already has a built in fuse, so no other fuse is needed on this circuit.

The second is the high power side (the light itself). Use the 12V battery for this circuit. Wire 12V battery to pin 30 on relay. Wire pin 87 on relay to the positive side of light. Wire the negative side of light to ground. You should also have a fuse on this circuit for protection.
I'm wanting to use the 5 pin switch which I haven't ordered but will soon so no wiring diagram as I've yet to order it. I am just wanting to wire the switch to work like the stock ones, when the ignition is one it is on and can power the accessory (light bar or whatever) and when the ignition is off it's completely off and can't be turned on till the ignition is on.

So, do I have to purchase a relay then?
What type of relay and where can I purchase it? Do you have a link?

This helps a lot because many posts and YouTube videos showing coming directly off the yellow ignition on middle pulse bar wire as the power source to the switch and light and saying it's safe and works fine of course using a inline fuse.

So I'm unfamiliar with some of the acronyms you used, what is IIRC?
I'm thinking DMM is digital multimeter right?
Also what gauge fuse should I use and guage of wire?

Please bare with me, I'm completely new at this so I need it explained with a poster and big crayon I guess haha. Seriously please have patience I just can't seem to find a universally agreed upon answer but I have noticed most use a relay, but does it truly have to have it to be safe?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Oh also I see you explain how to connect each circuit. The relay and the switch but how is the relay connected to the switch?

Can you draw a diagram for me please. I read your instructions and think I understand but as far as the ground coming from the device I need a fuse here as well? What size? Also where can I ground this, is it ok to ground it to pin 85 as well since it goes to ground?

Lastly, this will work like a stock switch and only have power when the ignition is on and the device only be powered then as well?

Sorry I'm still confused, dumb here sorry.
Is the below relay the correct one to order?
Circuit component Product Passive circuit component Font Rectangle
 

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Yes, that relay will work fine. It's just a standard automotive relay. That particular one is good to 40A so it should be fine.

What light are you looking to power? The size fuse will be dependent on the Amp draw of the light as well as the size of the wiring (which also is dependent on the Amp draw of the light).

DMM - digital multimeter (you are correct)
IIRC - if I remember correctly

All the grounds can connect to the same place, they are the same.

You're going to need to connect them with wire. Gauge size will be dependent of Amp draw of light for that circuit (probably 12-14 gauge would be good). Probably 18 gauge wire for the 12V ignition circuit.

You can connect into the pulse bar with a connector off amazon/ebay/etc. (I kinda assumed you had this already since you knew the colors - different brands can be different on the wire color)


You can use any inline fuse holder, blade or miniblade are probably best. I'd figure out what the other fuses on your machine are and go with that.


You can connect the pulse connector and fuse holder with buttsplices (I like the ones that have heat-shrink built in), use the right one for the wire size


You also want to use the proper crimp tool to install


you want to use spade terminals to connect the wire to the relay and switch, again you'll find them in different colors, match to the wire size your crimping to and if combining multiple wires you might have to use the next size larger.



Use a ring terminal for the ground on the closest ground stud, or bolt to frame to make a good ground. Same as above for color and size. Make sure the ring is the right size for the bolt as well.


Wiring like I showed will result in the switch only turning the light (and the LEDs in the switch) on when the key is on.

I will try and draw up a wiring diagram if I get some time.
 

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There are wiring harnesses available for a pulse bar that include the switch, relay, fuse, etc, if you prefer to go that route. Search polaris pulse lightbar harness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes, that relay will work fine. It's just a standard automotive relay. That particular one is good to 40A so it should be fine.

What light are you looking to power? The size fuse will be dependent on the Amp draw of the light as well as the size of the wiring (which also is dependent on the Amp draw of the light).

DMM - digital multimeter (you are correct)
IIRC - if I remember correctly

All the grounds can connect to the same place, they are the same.

You're going to need to connect them with wire. Gauge size will be dependent of Amp draw of light for that circuit (probably 12-14 gauge would be good). Probably 18 gauge wire for the 12V ignition circuit.

You can connect into the pulse bar with a connector off amazon/ebay/etc. (I kinda assumed you had this already since you knew the colors - different brands can be different on the wire color)


You can use any inline fuse holder, blade or miniblade are probably best. I'd figure out what the other fuses on your machine are and go with that.


You can connect the pulse connector and fuse holder with buttsplices (I like the ones that have heat-shrink built in), use the right one for the wire size


You also want to use the proper crimp tool to install


you want to use spade terminals to connect the wire to the relay and switch, again you'll find them in different colors, match to the wire size your crimping to and if combining multiple wires you might have to use the next size larger.



Use a ring terminal for the ground on the closest ground stud, or bolt to frame to make a good ground. Same as above for color and size. Make sure the ring is the right size for the bolt as well.


Wiring like I showed will result in the switch only turning the light (and the LEDs in the switch) on when the key is on.

I will try and draw up a wiring diagram if I get some time.
Man your so awesome thank you! A diagram will be so great! This already makes so much sense now. The draw of the lights I'm actually doing is probably very little as they are just 4 small emergency strobes for the grill. The guy from Polaris actually already added my light bar but I didn't see a relay and his switch sucks so bad, just a simple metal flip switch ugh.

Now I have a lot of 16 guage wire, can I use that to wire everything?

Also, say I want to add another switch to power another light or something, will I need to get another relay and do this very same thing using the next pulse bar bus or can I use the same relay and wire the switches and devices in line? I saw a guy mention leaving extra wire off his switch to do this on a YouTube video actually but didn't go into any detail on how that would be wired. Sorry I have so many dumb question man and thank you so very much for explaining all of this and having patience with me and my ignorance.

It would be nice to not have to get another relay and do this to every single switch and device I add but I'll do it how you think it should be done, you seem very knowledgeable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
There are wiring harnesses available for a pulse bar that include the switch, relay, fuse, etc, if you prefer to go that route. Search polaris pulse lightbar harness.
Wow thanks! Heck that's a lot easier, I assume this is what the dealership used when wiring and adding my light bar. I think it will be better to learn how all this goes together now though. Plus I really want to know how to add additional switches and devices and hoping I don't have to add a relay to each switch and device. CrazyElecE I think will be able to answer that too, he's got this stuff down to a science, he's probably a pro and has done many installs. You may be as well, so any additional info means the world!
 

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You have to be careful with some of the prewired harnesses they can be wired differently. Some are wired so that they work off battery power so they can be used with key off. Some are so generic they just want hot and ground so if you power with the 12V ignition lead it's too much draw, but if you power with 12V battery the lights in the switch will stay lit.

16 gauge is probably fine for anything on the switch side, but the lights might draw to much for it. You'd have to know the specs or test it to be sure.

If the lights are less than a 10A draw then you could get away with powering directly from the 12V ignition lead, but IME (in my experience) that just leads to issues in the future when adding other circuits.

If you want to power an additional light, yes, best practice is to add an additional circuit including switch and relay. If you wanted everything to come on at the same time with one switch, you could just tap into the high power side of the relay and wire the additional device in with the original as long as the total power draw doesn't compromise the circuit, or tap into the switch side and add an additional relay and new high power circuit.

This is a typical wiring diagram for a simple 3 terminal lighted switch I found



I drew this one up quickly in paint for the 5 position, you'll have to reference the pin-out in my original post though
Rectangle Slope Line Parallel Font

The only real difference is that a 5 pin switch has 2 lights, one is lit with key on and the other when the switch is on wired this way. Again this is the typical wiring, you might have to test or check against a pinout of your particular switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Wow thanks so much! So it IS definitely best to use a relay and switch per bus for each additional accessory if I'm understanding correctly?

Also what is the max load the pulse bar key-on yellow wire will support? For instance as I said I saw a guy on YouTube wiring some small pod lights and just running them from that pulse bar key-on terminal bit he mentioned it was small load and thus would be fine. So is he correct? He too seemed very assured and looks like he had done some pretty in depth wiring on his side-by-side. Here let me send the YouTube video link...

I know it would be nice to know I can use the key-on pulse bar terminal for low amp devices with a switch.

Oh and again thank you so much for informing me some of the wiring harnesses aren't the same, I really would rather learn from you how to wire everything myself so I know for certain things will work accordingly.

Also the switch I intend to use will be the L type just like the factory 5 pin switches.

 

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Rectangle Slope Font Parallel Schematic

Here is one showing the pin-out using the pulsebar only for lower amp Acc. If you want the switch to be backlit only with the dashlights, connect #6 to a dash light circuit. If you want the switch to be backlit while the key is on, jumper #2 to #6.

For large Amp acc, you can wire it from the battery.
Rectangle Slope Font Parallel Pattern

honestly, most lightbars and pods these days come with a harness that includes the relay, fuse, and switch. On those harnesses, it is super simple:
Connect the red harness wire to the red Pulse wire
Connect the Black Harness wire to Black Pulse wire
Remove the connector from #2 on the switch, and run the yellow pulse wire to #2. Done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
View attachment 25859
Here is one showing the pin-out using the pulsebar only for lower amp Acc. If you want the switch to be backlit only with the dashlights, connect #6 to a dash light circuit. If you want the switch to be backlit while the key is on, jumper #2 to #6.

For large Amp acc, you can wire it from the battery.
View attachment 25860
honestly, most lightbars and pods these days come with a harness that includes the relay, fuse, and switch. On those harnesses, it is super simple:
Connect the red harness wire to the red Pulse wire
Connect the Black Harness wire to Black Pulse wire
Remove the connector from #2 on the switch, and run the yellow pulse wire to #2. Done.
Both of these diagrams show a relay.

I mean in the YouTube video mentioned, (I also added the link if your curious) the guy runs the yellow pulse wire to the switch which is jumpered #8 and #7 to ground then #2 and #6 getting power from the yellow terminal on pulse bar and then #3 going out to the light bar itself, I think.

How about this diagram I saw on another post?
Product Rectangle Parallel Font Schematic



The bottom diagram shows the light bar wired without a relay. However would this allow the switch and light bar power to be switched off with the ignition or would it stay on?

Also do you have a link to a wiring harness that your describing?...Just in the event later I decide to take a short cut on running wires and getting relays in the future.
 

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Yeah, if you are going to run directly off the 12V ignition you don't need the relay, the switch can handle that current on it's own anyway.

The 12V ignition source on the pulse bar is fused at 10A draw. Anything less than that should be ok to power directly. The "problem" with doing so is later using it for something else, and later after that using it again. It's 10A total for all the circuits using it.

honestly, most lightbars and pods these days come with a harness that includes the relay, fuse, and switch. On those harnesses, it is super simple:
Connect the red harness wire to the red Pulse wire
Connect the Black Harness wire to Black Pulse wire
Remove the connector from #2 on the switch, and run the yellow pulse wire to #2. Done.
The only issue I have with that, is that ends up leaving wires connected directly to the 12V positive floating around in the machine. Also they are always either too short and have to splice some in, or way too long and have to bundle a bunch up or cut and splice. To be fair though, I am very very anal about my wiring, for most it would be fine.
 

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I wouldnt ever wire it up without a relay. I dont trust the rocker switches to carry the current, even if they say they are listed for it. Do it the right way, with a relay.

I'm not sure what the rules are for linking, so here is a picture and you can do your own search for a harness. Installation would be as mentioned earlier.

Harness red to Pulse plug red.
Harness Black, to pulse plug black.
At the switch, cut the wire going to #2, Tape up the relay side, and wire Pulse plug yellow to the switch side of the cut. Yellow to #2 and 6 allows power and backlight, only with key on.



Map Rectangle Font Parallel Slope
 

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Yeah, if you are going to run directly off the 12V ignition you don't need the relay, the switch can handle that current on it's own anyway.
I'll defer to CrazyElecE, as they probably have far more experience than me. I've burned up a couple of cheap switches, so my choice, I do it with a relay. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yeah, if you are going to run directly off the 12V ignition you don't need the relay, the switch can handle that current on it's own anyway.

The 12V ignition source on the pulse bar is fused at 10A draw. Anything less than that should be ok to power directly. The "problem" with doing so is later using it for something else, and later after that using it again. It's 10A total for all the circuits using it.



The only issue I have with that, is that ends up leaving wires connected directly to the 12V positive floating around in the machine. Also they are always either too short and have to splice some in, or way too long and have to bundle a bunch up or cut and splice. To be fair though, I am very very anal about my wiring, for most it would be fine.
I think I'll do it the way you recommend. Also you said some harnesses have different wiring so I will probably wire the relay and everything myself, better safe than sorry. Right?

So all that said which diagram would you personally use to make sure it powers on when the switch is on???
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The 12V ignition source on the pulse bar is fused at 10A draw. Anything less than that should be ok to power directly. The "problem" with doing so is later using it for something else, and later after that using it again. It's 10A total for all the circuits using it.
So your saying that the pulse bar yellow lead on each connector can only carry 10A or that in total for every yellow lead connection on the entire pulse bar that 10A is the max it can carry???

Sorry that kinda confused me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I wouldnt ever wire it up without a relay. I dont trust the rocker switches to carry the current, even if they say they are listed for it. Do it the right way, with a relay.

I'm not sure what the rules are for linking, so here is a picture and you can do your own search for a harness. Installation would be as mentioned earlier.

Harness red to Pulse plug red.
Harness Black, to pulse plug black.
At the switch, cut the wire going to #2, Tape up the relay side, and wire Pulse plug yellow to the switch side of the cut. Yellow to #2 and 6 allows power and backlight, only with key on.



View attachment 25862
So in this diagram the switch and light would only come on with the ignition on or would it come on with the ignition off as well and how about the LEDs in the switch itself would they remain on all the time or only come on when the ignition on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thank you so much! You and CrazyElecE have been such a great help. I'm going to order things I need for this install and if I need further assistance or get to a problem with the install I hope it will be ok to ask for help again.
 
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