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Discussion Starter #1
I just got the door set for my Ranger EV and got it installed, but the doors have excess rubber gasket seals extending from the bottom edges of the frame so the doors won't shut, and before I cut it off, I wanted to see if that's what I'm supposed to do or if there's some other solution. I can't imagine why the excess rubber sealing gasket was left. Any ideas? Thanks. Stephen
 

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Can you provide the part number for your doors? I am assuming they are Polaris brand.
 

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I think they left the extra on there so you can trim it to the correct length to fit snug without a leak.
On some of the aftermarket doors the gasket seals come in a roll and you install and trim them to fit. I don't see this as any different.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks. That's what I thought but found it kind of weird it wouldn't have even been mentioned in the instructions--such as they are. I would have been better off, and saved time, if I had just installed the doors without even looking at the instructions.
 

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I am curious to know how the door install worked out.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
As I said, it would have been quicker if I hadn't tried to follow the instructions. I am pretty mechanically adept though. I had problems getting the first door (driver's side) on the hinges, and it seemed to be that the hinges for the right and left sides are different somehow. They didn't want to line up so they would just slide down over the hinges. I couldn't tell by looking at them however that there was maybe a difference, and the instructions didn't say anything. The lower hinges didn't seem to matter which side they were installed on. The few parts numbers that are in the directions and show RH or LH don't seem to be correct. I guess its possible that the metal frame that the canvas attaches to could have been slightly bent or something. In any event I was able to get them on the hinges after a real struggle for about 2 hours or so. The passenger side went on without a problem and took about 15 minutes. Then getting the door to close took awhile because you have to figure out how much of the excess weather stripping to remove, where to cut it, and then getting the door latch to work. I had anticipated that the door mechanism and closing and latch would be as smooth as silk, but its kind of rough--like I imagine a WWII jeep would have been. The info. page on the website says 30 minutes!! Not so. Still, it closes up and seems snug, and definitely keeps out the cold air, so for the price, but which seems about $400 too high, I'm happy with it and it serves my purpose. It definitely would be easier to remove the doors than the other more expensive kit. Oh, and the video that's shown for the door installation is NOT the door that you're getting-its the more expensive door and the hinge set is different, etc.--causing more confusion.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The only issue bothering me with the doors is the door latch mechanism. You have to really slam the door for it to close and latch, and you really have to yank on the door to open it from outside, or push really hard to open from the inside. It seems that the latch doesn't open far enough to release from the circular catch and there's no way to adjust it--other than moving it horizontally, and I've got it moved as far towards the outside as it will go. There is no vertical adjustment. Does anyone have any suggestions for adjustment, or do they all act like this? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I worked on it yesterday, and found that I am able to adjust the vertical movement on the latch attached to the body frame. I was able to get the passenger door to close properly. Now the passenger side is even tougher because the rubber gasket that goes around the door is so large that it makes it difficult to close. So more work on that! Any tips would be appreciated.
 

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I have the exact same doors since 2015. Yes it takes a bit of adjusting but they fit and seal good once adjusted.
 
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