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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello all!
My name is Kolt. We recently purchased our first UTV. From the get go we had the dealer install the WD street legal kit.

Year: 2023
Make: Polaris
Model: Ranger XP1000 Crew
Package: Northstar Ultimate w/ Ride Command

Recent upgrades:
WD Street Legal Kit
Seizmic Mirrors
Seatbelt Bypass Switch
Wayup 6-Gang Relay System
AUX switch, fuse, & isolator

Current Project:
Mounts for roof rack
Mounts for bed L-track
Mounts for LED bar
LED strip interior lighting

Future mods:
Custom aluminum roof & bed rack


 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
I had all of the supplies laying in a scrap bin so I just put this together real quick. When the seatbelt is inserted into the release it just connects the circuit.
All it took was a set of waterproof connectors, a standard on/off switch and some wire. I just ran two parallel wires - basically an extension - then created a leg off each wire to the switch that connects the circuit as the seat belt would.



The power supply has been a little more finicky as I have messed up a couple of times.

Parts used:
M5 bolts
2 guage weld wire
Blue Sea Battery Switch m-Series (Part# 6006200)
Blue Sea ANL Fuse Block (Part# 5005)
Stinger 200 AMP Battery Relay Isolator (Part# SGP32)



I bought these 12Awg Pulse Power Plug Connector Pigtail on Amazon for $15 to tie in ignition power to the Isolator. However, I don't believe it really is 12AWG.

Wood Gas Font Close-up Metal


I also bought this Wayup 6 Gang Switch Panel Universal Circuit Control Relay System Box on Amazon for $89 to control all of the additional accessories. I liked this version over the other models because the fuses and relays are not sealed so if anything goes wrong they can just be replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I will update this more in a bit but I tried CRAMMING the wires from the Relay box to Relay control through the A-pillar but the head just wouldnt fit in the hole 🤫. I had to cut the wire - behind the dash - and add connectors. It went surprisingly well.

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I decided to dust off the CNC router and make HDPE parts. I was happy to see that both came out just as I had hoped on the first try. Being a hobby fabricator is fun but my local plastic shop closed down so I'm running low on scrap plastics. I only had ½ & ¾ inch HDPE on hand.

This mounting plate will hold the Relay block. I didn't want it to be ½" thick so I cut it to ¼" thick and left the walls for structure. I probably could have left a couple more walls in between but I'm satisfied. I could have made the walls up but I didn't want any water pooling.
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This bracket will hold the relay control panel just below the rear view mirror. I'm quite happy with the fitment of the groove on the back and bolt placements but I had to ream out the top holes as I made them too small. Better to be too small than too large in this case.
I milled this to ⅜" thickness all around and created a 0.125" groove for the mirror mount and the back of the control panel to fit into.
The lower triangle intentionally goes below the visible plane as it doubles as the wire guide.
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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Over the last couple of days I was working on a couple of things. I finished up the main portion of Aux wiring, received some bed rack parts, and test fitted a roof rack.

I am feeling good about the auxiliary wiring. Everything is mounted securely, most of the wires are wrapped in split loom and I heat shrinked the end connectors.
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In the process, I needed to run a good common ground to the roof for all of the aux lighting that I will be adding. To do this, I followed some wiring up the driver side C-pillar. I quickly found out that I needed to remove the headliner to really get up there and, boy, was I supprised to find ANOTHER Pulse Bar in the rear of the roof; along with some extra wires marked for door speakers.
The wires to this Pulse Bar were a bit smaller guage than the hood Pulse Bar so I ran the extra ground to it anyways; easy enough to go through the existing split loom.
There are only a few plastic and a bunch of Torq head bolts holding the headliner up; T25 & T40.
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Finger Thumb Auto part Gas Cable


After finishing I went through with a multimeter and tested the wires at different points with the switch on/off and with the ignition on/off.
Switch off:
Electrical wiring Gadget Electronic engineering Measuring instrument Electrical supply

Switch on:
Measuring instrument Electrical wiring Gas Technology Gauge

Ignition off/on (at isolator):
Electrical wiring Technology Gadget Wire Electronic device

Ignition off/on (at relay block):
Electrical wiring Audio equipment Motor vehicle Computer hardware Technology


I bought these compression anchors on Amazon and I have an idea to attach some L-Track to the sides and front of the bed. The front bar wont move often but I need the rear bar to be able to move - or be removed - in order to get my garbage and recycle cans in the bed.
I'll be adding some LED strips to the track to light up the bed. I may eventually make a canvas cover but that doesn't need to happen right away.
The L-Track has pre-drilled mounting holes every 5" but each bed hole is 6" apart. A couple of new holes can fix that.

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I got the control panel mounted and connected behind the guage cluster. Some split loom covered the extra connectors nicely for a little added protection.
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next I ran some 14awg 4 conductor wire to the roof for a 36" LED bar, a 20" rear LED bar and multiple LED pods for the side lighting. The wire shielding just barely fit into the passanger side A-pillar routing this was as easy since removing the top glove box just revealed the solid plastic dash; no access hole. I was able to unscrew the vent to get the wire down and direct toward the center. Just behind the Ride Command there is a large enough gap to gently reach through so I was able to grab the other end; pictured.
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Now, this roof rack came off of my truck canopy but I was surprised at how well it fit. I do plan on making one at some point so I can put this back on my truck but it will be a great template to build off of.
The brand is UpTop Overland. It is 1"x2" extrusion with CNC aluminum dual sides.
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There aren't that many good places to mount a rack. I created a basic A-frame design to mount the rear bars to the rear bolts of the roof. The gap in the front doesn't have a lot of support and had a 2.5" gap but I won't be putting a lot of weight on it in general. I made HDPE pucks to bolt a metal riser bracket to. It still needs some work.
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have been busy with the family and holiday as well as waiting for some parts to come in so I haven't messed around with this too much.

What I did do is pick up some 1.25" Stainless washers to alter the bed anchors. The basic idea is from a toothed lock washer. I started by drilling out the center to 3/4" so that the T-Nut core would fit inside the washer. Then I slotted it inside with a dremel - until the T-Nut fit inside - and outside with a bandsaw then twisted the wings to grab the rubber anchor if it begins to twist. I kept the top washer it came with to keep the anchor at the top and a countersunk bolt to mount the L-Track to the top of the bed.
Still waiting on the L-Track to arrive. It is expected to arrive in 2 days. I will need to cut it to length and drill holes in the appropriate locations.

Font Circle Auto part Gas Rim

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I made a sample mount for the LED bar but I didn't like where the bar was positioned so I redesigned it and started with V2. I still need to make the mounting holes so I designed a jig to hold it still while I the CNC does it's thing; not perfect but good enough.
Font Auto part Graphics Logo Circle

Hood Automotive tire Bumper Rim Wrist

Font Symbol Circle Automotive decal Logo

Wood Automotive exterior Parallel Bumper Track

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I am also working on a special project on the backburner but I don't think it is worth noting just yet.
 
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