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Discussion Starter #1
Good morning, been following these threads for a few years now and have gotten some really good info and advice.

I am pretty much at the end of my rope on this machine.

A little backstory.

It is a 2015 900 crew EPS. Has around 500 hours on it. I bought it used in 2017.

So far Ive replaced:

-Motor this past summer. Air box somehow took a punch while trail riding, dust in engine, instant motor failure.
-All new suspension a few months ago. Wheel bearings, A arms, ball joints, shocks
-New battery 3 weeks ago. Went to turn it over one evening and just clicked
-Prop shaft carrier bearing last week. Went out while riding a few weeks ago/ Replace U joints as well while it was out.

I literally baby this machine. Use it majority of the time riding paved roads throughout our neighborhood, and once or twice a month at our deer lease filling feeders etc. Never, ever in any deep water or mud. Always wash the bike and grease after every trip.

The newest issue after getting it back from shop for carrier bearing is a lag or jump in the throttle. Happens mostly at low throttle when its just getting started. I ran it wide open yesterday down the road to see if it did it at high speeds, and it did, but not as bad. More of a miss at high rolling speed and punching the gas. At low speed, from a stop and easing into the gas it jumps and jerks a bit then catches up. Idles perfect.

I am going to try the easy stuff first, bad gas, sea foam etc. Checked air filter last night. Little dusty but normal. I cleaned it out.

I am sick and tired of dumping money into this thing.

Any other things to check before this thing takes another trip to the shop?
 

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I totally understand your attitude at this point. But, I think your problem may be super easy and relatively cheap to fix.


The intake manifold gaskets on these Rangers is super fragile. Friend of mine bought a used Ranger and his mechanic buddy said it would be a great idea to swap them out while they had the intake manifold off, so they did. Amazingly, getting the new ones on, they got one a little crooked on the side that bolts down to the head. (He said one side is a hose clamp and the other used bolts and nuts that mash that end to the head.) In a couple hours of operation, the engine started running poor and the test was simple. Get a $3 can of starting fluid from WallyMart. Warm your motor up and then spray the starting fluid in around the base of the manifold. If the engine ACCELERATES, it's sucking air in from one of those intake adapters. I think my buddy said they were $15 apiece new. His engine accelerated so he threw another adapter on and it solved the issue.



The key to installation is getting the head side tightened down symmetrically so that it doesn't tweak the "adapter" and cause a stress tear, resulting in a leak. I haven't done the swap but I am gonna try the starting fluid test to see if there is any leak. That is downstream from your air filter and a lot of guys never know they are sucking in dirt when they actually are. Whomever installed your new motor probably used the old intake manifold and may have tried to use these old adapters. Even if they used new ones, they may have developed a leak.


I have a '99 4Runner and I have a tiny manifold leak that only shows up when the engine is hot. I am going to use the rest of my starting fluid to find that leak and tighten the manifold down better after doing an injector replacement. It's always the easy stuff!


Sounds like your machine is a keeper. Let us know what you find out after testing your intake...
 

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Thanks for that reply. I saw that on another thread here on this forum and is written down on my list of items to go over when I get home today. Really appreciate it.

Also going to check for any fluid in the belt housing, although it hasn't seen water in a year, maybe washing it caused some to get in. Ordered a new belt today just to see if that fixes the jerking and slipping.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Any recommendations on where to buy this manifold to replace? I have tried searching the web and coming up blank.
 

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Go to this link.... https://www.polarispartshouse.com/oemparts/a/pol/57b496aa87a8661338c1c271/engine-intake-throttle-body-all-options


Part 7: Throttle Body Adapter. You will need two. $28 or so bucks here. I just pulled this site down because it came up first (and Babbits is not cheap!!!). Shop around. They all drop ship from Polaris. I use Rocky Mountain ATV most of the time.


My housing leaks like a sieve. Any engine wash results in a slippy belt. You'd think Polaris would make that cover fit against a rubber seal, BUT NO!!!! I guess we didn't pay enough for that level of detail. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Really appreciate the help here. I will post up tomorrow how it goes with the spray and see if it changes the idle.
 

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One last thought: If the intake manifold is tight and you aren't getting any extra air into the mixture, you might have a goofy pedal rheostat. These utes have fly-by-wire throttles and 80% of the time the part that goes stinky is the pedal end. Remember, the pedal drives an actuator on the throttle coordinator to control the ponies. Sorting out which one is bad is hard to do. The pedal mechanism is something like $70 so I am pretty sure it's the cheapest of the two.


The fact that you are getting the "jerkies" during throttle transition either points to mixture changes with the leaking manifold adapter, or something weird in the pedal-actuator loop. You'll know which one it is tomorrow after a few spritzes of starting fluid.


I had no idea about these manifold adapters until a friend told me about them. If your perfect-running engine suddenly starts running odd, they would be one of the first things you'd want to check.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok, I couldn't wait until tomorrow. As soon as I got home I started it, let it warm up just a bit and sprayed carb cleaner all around the boots you had in mind. No change in idle at all. The thing purrs like a kitten at idle, holds RPMs steady.

I put a small amount of sea foam in it and took it for a spin. Same thing, but maybe getting slightly worse.

Weird thing, it does NOT do this at all in reverse. I can mash on it in reverse, maybe a slight delay, but does not sputter, lurch or anything. Acts as it always has in reverse.

When I put it in any gear, high or low, I can ease into the pedal, literally like an 1/8 of an inch and it will start idling up and rolling. BARELY a small increase in pressure in the pedal and it lunges forward, starts popping from the back, sucking air (I think thats the sound) and takes off and will generally run fine if I stay in it at the pace. Any increase in pedal and it hiccups a bit more.

I was pulling it into the garage, easing into the pedal and it popped wheezed and lunged so much I had to mash the brake afraid of ending up in my living room with it.

So frustrating. Literally just picked it up from the shop Monday, for a new prop shaft bearing and U joints. Get it home and its something else. My wife may leave me if I break down and tell her its something else. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok, so after further inspection of the boot in question, it appears there may be a crack as mentioned.

Why would it still idle fine as well as seem to run in reverse fine?

I have ordered the boots already to start there. Are they hard to replace? Do I need to remove any other part of the throttle body etc to get them out?
 

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The boots are not hard to install. I think you have to loosen the manifold to get the boots off and the new ones on. Just be sure to screw the boots down evenly. Leave the hose clamps very loose and maybe WD or lube the area where the adapter fits to the manifold so it can wiggle without putting strain on the adapter while screwing the screws down. THEN tighten the hose clamps. Visualize lowering the adapter to the head evenly and parallel to the head before tightening either screw.


Pistol's problem is weird. Good idea to try it in reverse. Almost sounds like a loose electrical connection. Lunging or lurching is a sign of the engine leaning out momentarily. I wonder if your fuel pump is not getting fed on forward acceleration (or hard decel) because the fuel pick-up has fallen off, rotten, or gotten clogged? Might be worth a peek into the white tank part under the driver's seat. Look at the pick-up for abnormal shape or blockages.


??????
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Alright, ordered boots from quad logic and paid extra for overnight. Going to work on getting them off tonight and new ones on tomorrow night.

Was planning on riding it this weekend, hoping this is the fix..
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Got the boots off last night... think there was a problem there? LOL.

Will know tonight if this fixed the problem or not, but regardless I am glad I started here. They definitely needed to be replaced. Now I am crossing my fingers it didnt dust the motor again. It just started really acting up this week, so hoping I caught it in time. Will dump the oil and filter and start fresh

I will post more tomorrow on the outcome.
 

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AYE CARAMBA!!!


Hopefully, it was a minor leak. The Polaris engineers need a spanking for such a crappy so-called "adapter." Those things suck. I am thinking they probably crack under heat stress and it's probably a time-compliance part that needs swapping out every five years or so.



Hope its running great now.
 

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Well, that was it! Got both boots installed last night, took it for a spin and she ran like a top.

Really appreciate all the help CCRay and this site in general! Probably saved at least a couple hundred dollars by not having to take into the shop (again)
 

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Just as a side note, it never ceases to amaze me as I tear into different parts of the machine the lack of thought that had to go into manufacturing these. Im no engineer, but those tiny bolts to get the boots on and off where a pain, I was wishing I had mini hands to get in there. They could have moved the injectors and fuel rail back 2 inches and it would be plenty of room.
 

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WHOO-HOO!

Glad to hear it was something simple. These modern computer-managed fuel injected motors run really crappy if extra air gets in, even a little. The engines run so lean to "save the children" that even a tiny bit of air screws up the mixture. The clue I picked up on was the surge in power as you got on the gas. Just like a model airplane engine that dogs while it's rich and then screams as it leans out.

Polaris should be shamed (or sued!) for such a deficient part. I know it's hot on top of the head but there are temperature tolerant materials that could do a much better job (silicone) than these creepy adapters. When one of these craps the bed, you are sucking in unfiltered air. Good you caught it soon enough!

LESSON TO ALL POLARIS OWNERS: IF YOU EXPERIENCE A SUDDEN WEIRDNESS IN YOUR THROTTLE, OR SURGING, THAT WAS NOT THERE A FEW MINUTES AGO, SHUT DOWN AND INSPECT YOUR INTAKE MANIFOLD ADAPTERS. As Pistol 58 will vouch for, it's very hard to see and even the starting fluid "test" is not always accurate in troubleshooting the issue. And if you EVER pull your intake manifold off, just plan on replacing these adapters while you are there to save problems in the future.

Thanks for keeping us informed as to what you found. Happy riding. Now take the wife out to dinner somewhere nice! :)
 

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Glad CCRay helped you get your bike back on the road.
Sounds great.
And it seems it didn't set you back much.
 
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