I am debating about building my own 2" lift kit for the RZR. They are cheap enough to buy, but I like to design and build my own stuff. Anyone have any input on the kits they put on? What didn't you like about the ones you bought? What did you like about them? Any thing you would do different?
Lift Kit
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
The ones superatv carries are super easy to install. The only thing I would change on that kit is the rear mounting tabs. It is suppose to raise the rear up by adding a couple brackets, but I would have a solid block to raise the rear as well. Like a piece of square tubing big enough for the shock to mount in and it bolt to the factory holes. probably a rectangle tubing 1/4 thick.
Joined
·
373 Posts
I help in the design phase of The Rubberdown kit. I have one on my own RZR and by far the best built kit out there. Made from solid steel. If you wnat one let me know.
Joined
·
373 Posts
Mine has been perfect so far.
Joined
·
22 Posts
What happened to the 2 previous post? They're gone. :-\
IMHO, when you raise the center of gravity of a vehicle, you need to account for that in the suspension. Changing the angle of the coil spring (shock, in this case) stiffens (or weakens) the suspension which then is offset (or compounded) by the increased ride height. This has been heavily discussed on another Polaris Ranger Forum. As with most anything, you get what you pay. The question to ask is, "what do you want?" and what are you going to do with it? Then what is the best product for that application.
When a lift kit manufacturer states in a public forum,
"Weather you change the top point or bottom point, the way to achive a lift it to increase the angle of the a-arms, thus lifting up the center of the machine. Top or bottom wont matter as long as you get the EXTENSION in ride height. Thats just my opinion.";
I want a product designed by someone who has a better understanding of vehicle suspension geometry.
If you like the stock ride; don't change the suspension at all. With any modification, there is a trade off.
Colby
IMHO, when you raise the center of gravity of a vehicle, you need to account for that in the suspension. Changing the angle of the coil spring (shock, in this case) stiffens (or weakens) the suspension which then is offset (or compounded) by the increased ride height. This has been heavily discussed on another Polaris Ranger Forum. As with most anything, you get what you pay. The question to ask is, "what do you want?" and what are you going to do with it? Then what is the best product for that application.
When a lift kit manufacturer states in a public forum,
"Weather you change the top point or bottom point, the way to achive a lift it to increase the angle of the a-arms, thus lifting up the center of the machine. Top or bottom wont matter as long as you get the EXTENSION in ride height. Thats just my opinion.";
I want a product designed by someone who has a better understanding of vehicle suspension geometry.
If you like the stock ride; don't change the suspension at all. With any modification, there is a trade off.
Colby
I'm expecting to hear when you get your UHMW skids built that there is no need for the lift!
I had been considering one for my RZR but the UHMW slides right over everything like Greased Lightning so I have no worries any more.
I also think by raising the suspension we could be adding a little stress to the front CVs or axels and my take on this is not good given the problems with the AWD system I am just now learning about.
I don't care what Polaris or Hilliard have to say about how the front end locks up only when it senses slip of the rear wheels. Mine locks up alot when the AWD button is on and that could spell disaster unless we are very careful.
I'm also a bit perplexed regarding buying Gorilla axels if I ever break one. Am I wrong in thinking if I buy stronger axels that won't break that there is a real possibility something else like the gears inside the differential will then have to take the preasure and could be destroyed??
My Jeepin buddies are always breaking axels, mostly in the front ends and almost always when in full lock and in tight spots. Just when they need it most! Something has to give and I sure would rather it be the cheapest part to repair or replace.
Gary
I had been considering one for my RZR but the UHMW slides right over everything like Greased Lightning so I have no worries any more.
I also think by raising the suspension we could be adding a little stress to the front CVs or axels and my take on this is not good given the problems with the AWD system I am just now learning about.
I don't care what Polaris or Hilliard have to say about how the front end locks up only when it senses slip of the rear wheels. Mine locks up alot when the AWD button is on and that could spell disaster unless we are very careful.
I'm also a bit perplexed regarding buying Gorilla axels if I ever break one. Am I wrong in thinking if I buy stronger axels that won't break that there is a real possibility something else like the gears inside the differential will then have to take the preasure and could be destroyed??
My Jeepin buddies are always breaking axels, mostly in the front ends and almost always when in full lock and in tight spots. Just when they need it most! Something has to give and I sure would rather it be the cheapest part to repair or replace.
Gary
Gary, I think you are correct on this. Think of your axle the same as a fuse in an electrical system. It is designed to fail in order to prevent further costly damage to other componenets. I am sure an axel is much cheaper than a differential.
Agreed! I have watched my Jeep buddies go first to larger axels. Then they went from Dana 30 up to 44s and then to Dana 60s.
Beefing up the weakest link only changes the weakest link and does not solve the problems.
We would need to go to a much heavier differential with much heavier axels and CVs to totally alieviate this problem.
I only use AWD when I am for sure stuck and going in a straight direction. Kind of sucks but thats why I have a winch and rather then to break stuff forcing my way over or out I will winch.
Gary
Beefing up the weakest link only changes the weakest link and does not solve the problems.
We would need to go to a much heavier differential with much heavier axels and CVs to totally alieviate this problem.
I only use AWD when I am for sure stuck and going in a straight direction. Kind of sucks but thats why I have a winch and rather then to break stuff forcing my way over or out I will winch.
Gary
Joined
·
373 Posts
Actually, replacing parts in the front gear box is cheaper than an axle. 289.00 There is a plastic cage, the weakest point internally, that brakes. 180.00 It is more time consuming to fix but less expensive.
Many of us have been thru this time and time again. I think the key to a well designed system is in making the weakest link, the part that will break, fairly easy and inexpensive to repair.
I remember back a long time ago when outboard boat motors had Shear Pins for the props. Hit a rock and the pin would shear. My dad got tired of shearing pins and had a friend make him a few new pins from a much harder bar stock.
First time he hit a rock he broke the shaft and it cost him 1000 times what a simple shear pin would have.
The idea is to look at the entire system when we start thinking about beefing things up. There is no such thing as UNBREAKABLE but you can buy some very heavy duty axels for these things that will probably never break. What will break just might be worse though.
I'm pretty fortunate to have some great friends who are big time jeepers. They have been through alot of these scenarios already and can usually point out the weakness and the possible results I might get by upgrading certain parts. I don't have any experience with the full size rangers but in my opinion the Gorilla axels are some very heavy units and we have to wonder what part will become the break point if we beef up just the axels.
I also think if I wanted to do a substantial lift on my RZR I would also look into shimming the differential down some to reduce the strain caused by seveer angles.
Gary
I remember back a long time ago when outboard boat motors had Shear Pins for the props. Hit a rock and the pin would shear. My dad got tired of shearing pins and had a friend make him a few new pins from a much harder bar stock.
First time he hit a rock he broke the shaft and it cost him 1000 times what a simple shear pin would have.
The idea is to look at the entire system when we start thinking about beefing things up. There is no such thing as UNBREAKABLE but you can buy some very heavy duty axels for these things that will probably never break. What will break just might be worse though.
I'm pretty fortunate to have some great friends who are big time jeepers. They have been through alot of these scenarios already and can usually point out the weakness and the possible results I might get by upgrading certain parts. I don't have any experience with the full size rangers but in my opinion the Gorilla axels are some very heavy units and we have to wonder what part will become the break point if we beef up just the axels.
I also think if I wanted to do a substantial lift on my RZR I would also look into shimming the differential down some to reduce the strain caused by seveer angles.
Gary
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!