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Hi, New to the forum. I'm looking at a used 2015 Ranger-EV. Is there a way to tell how much life is left in the batteries. It has 318 hours on it. I'm guessing everything is original. It looks in real good shape. Any other item I should look at that might cost a lot to replace? How much do new batteries run? Thanks for any info.
 

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Any other item I should look at that might cost a lot to replace?
Check how rotten are the battery trays and/or frame around battery compartment.


How much do new batteries run? Thanks for any info.
Recycle them, and replace with 14 Nissan Leaf G2 modules.
About $1100 for the modules (https://www.techdirectclub.com/nissan-leaf-battery-g2-module-lithium-ion-500-wh-7-6v-per-module-lot-of-14-w-option/), and about $200 for BMS (https://zeva.com.au/index.php?product=135). May need to add another contactor, so like $50 more.
 

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Answering your question.
Check that the batteries are not overly swollen, a poor battery tends to have bulging sides.
Check each battery voltage when charged they should all be about the same ie 13+ volts depending on how long since they were charged, if there is a big difference in battery voltage that could be an issue.

When driven for say 30 mins, re check the battery voltages, if any are obviously low and well below 12v at rest they could be poor.
Check the electrolyte level, some later Trojans have a small dot and If I recall that should be showing white not black.

Look for any exceptional corrosion on the battery terminals. Also tighness.
If you have access to the kit and software for the Delta Q charger , you can see how many times its been charged, if any charges were aborted before completion. It gives an idea of how its been charged. Ie its only got 300hrs on the clock, but its had to be charged after every half hour to get there.

Get some form of guarantee from the seller.
If a vehicle is regularly used , ie a couple of hours each day, then my customers have been seeing about 1.5 to 2 years life. Others who use them a few hrs a week are seeing many years of use.

Lead acid seem to degenerate after about 500 cycles of charge discharge, if properly maintained. That also fits with my users experience when used daily.
Under the seat towards the centre back, is a round bodied contactor with two 5/16 posts. On this is a short harness connecting to a multiway plug, check its not burnt inside. In the same area is a small block of 3 fuses, on the end of a lead, may still be in a plastic cover, check the centre one isnt melty. Both thes issues are associated with the charger and high currents causing failures over time. Not a big deal but both can be a show stopper.
Check the CV and steering gaiters, as well as the suspension bushes.
 

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Why does a aborted charge cycle matter? I have done this a bunch in the past if I just needed a partial charge to finish my day. Thoughts?


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If there are high level of partial charges, that could suggest that the pack has not been given the chance to get balanced on a regular basis (Thats the point of the over charge stage at the end of the charge), That can mean that the pack isnt as overall charged as it could be. That may be sorted by a couple of full cycle chargers. It needs to be taken into context with the number of overall charge cycles. If its a high proportion of the charges are not being allowed to full cycle, that could mean that the weaker batteries have been pushed too low in use and may now not perform as well as they could all through their discharge cycle. The regular over charge also sort of protects the batteries that go high voltage(likely to be the waeaker ones), as it gets the whole pack to a more level voltage so one battery is not constantly going very high voltage .

A flag to check a bit further. Data really just adds to your understanding of what the pack is doing and how its been treated. But its really down to how the vehicle actually runs, and how its been maintained.
If buying a 2015 with original pack, I would assume that I would need to replace the pack in the near future, and factor that into my overall cost expectations.
 

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Check each battery voltage when charged they should all be about the same ie 13+ volts depending on how long since they were charged, if there is a big difference in battery voltage that could be an issue.
Can you expand on "big difference in battery voltage"? I also bought an EV last spring and was told that the batteries were probably 2 years old, though I have been unable to verify that. So last month after I charged it, I took a look at the voltage levels. My highest came out at 12.68 and the lowest was 12.47. I figured that was fine, but then I started researching voltage levels and it seems 12.7 volts is considered 100% while 12.2 is 60% and time to charge it up again. Needless to say, I was surprised. So I began to wonder how much variation there should be between batteries.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
looking at a uused EV

Might be a simple question. To measure battery voltage do I have to disconnect them all from each other and test each battery individually?
 

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Can you expand on "big difference in battery voltage"? I also bought an EV last spring and was told that the batteries were probably 2 years old, though I have been unable to verify that. So last month after I charged it, I took a look at the voltage levels. My highest came out at 12.68 and the lowest was 12.47. I figured that was fine, but then I started researching voltage levels and it seems 12.7 volts is considered 100% while 12.2 is 60% and time to charge it up again. Needless to say, I was surprised. So I began to wonder how much variation there should be between batteries.
It may depend on where they are in each string, and if you have anything connected to the 12+ constant live terminals.

Do the voltage checks and note the positions as I have suggested.

Do you let the charger finish? (ie do the over charge) have you watered recently?
 

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If there are high level of partial charges, that could suggest that the pack has not been given the chance to get balanced on a regular basis (Thats the point of the over charge stage at the end of the charge), That can mean that the pack isnt as overall charged as it could be. That may be sorted by a couple of full cycle chargers. It needs to be taken into context with the number of overall charge cycles. If its a high proportion of the charges are not being allowed to full cycle, that could mean that the weaker batteries have been pushed too low in use and may now not perform as well as they could all through their discharge cycle. The regular over charge also sort of protects the batteries that go high voltage(likely to be the waeaker ones), as it gets the whole pack to a more level voltage so one battery is not constantly going very high voltage .

A flag to check a bit further. Data really just adds to your understanding of what the pack is doing and how its been treated. But its really down to how the vehicle actually runs, and how its been maintained.
If buying a 2015 with original pack, I would assume that I would need to replace the pack in the near future, and factor that into my overall cost expectations.


Ok makes sense. Thanks for the explanation


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It may depend on where they are in each string, and if you have anything connected to the 12+ constant live terminals.

Do the voltage checks and note the positions as I have suggested.

Do you let the charger finish? (ie do the over charge) have you watered recently?
I am not real familiar with thread etiquette, but I feel like I am stepping in on someone else's thread at this point. If I am, I apologize. But to answer your questions, my process is to charge the batteries around the first of each month. Keep in mind that I don't run this thing long distances, just around my property. I check the water levels prior to charging to make sure the cell plates are covered. Then I let the batteries charge over night. The next day I check to make sure the 100% LED on the charger is green. I wash all the batteries off with baking soda and then top each one up with distilled water. Last month I did voltage checks prior to and shortly after (3 or 4 hours after unplugging) charging. Here is what I found.

Pre-charge voltage......49.3
After Charge..............50.6

Individual Battery Charges
................Before.......After
Driver side
Front ........12.40.......12.65
Middle.......12.19.......12.47
Rear..........12.30.......12.53
Outside.....12.35.......12.62
................49.24.......50.27

Passenger side
Front .......12.29.......12.58
Middle......12.40.......12.68
Rear.........12.33.......12.57
Outside.....12.27.......12.57
...............49.29.......50.40

Initially, I didn't think anything of the differences and figured the voltage levels were good. However, my son who installs solar panel systems for a living, mentioned something about never letting the batteries go below 12 volts. So I started researching and was somewhat surprised to learn about normal voltage levels in deep cycle batteries. But I haven't found anything that mentions just how much difference there can be between batteries in a pack. I will be repeating this process, probably tomorrow, to see how it compares.

When I bought this thing, the headlights had been replaced with LED lights wired directly to one of the batteries. While rebuilding, I removed that wiring and the lights now run of the normal headlight circuits. So there is noting running directly off any of the batteries.
 

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Just a point Trojans are traction batteries, not deep cycle. Deep cycle batteries are not designed for high rate discharge. Trojans as traction batteries are.

Your pack doesnt look too bad . I would suggest that you do a bit of load testing, and read the voltages under load. See how they drop. Thats not easy, possible with a helper and no seat or fix the meter probes to the battery terminals. Drivers side middle is possibly worth a bit more checking and may be going low under load. Worth checking.
 

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Trojan and US batteries run for 8 about 1445.00 including tax and cores. I would not recommend even thinking about assembling any lithium batteries without the knowledge how to assemble and connect all the components required to maintain them. That’s why most are going to the voltronixs kit route because most of us don’t have the background knowledge and it’s a lot easier to have it already done. Yes that’s where a lot of the expense in those kits are. Someone else already done that for us we just want to hook it up and go.
 

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Just a point Trojans are traction batteries, not deep cycle. Deep cycle batteries are not designed for high rate discharge. Trojans as traction batteries are.

Your pack doesnt look too bad . I would suggest that you do a bit of load testing, and read the voltages under load. See how they drop. Thats not easy, possible with a helper and no seat or fix the meter probes to the battery terminals. Drivers side middle is possibly worth a bit more checking and may be going low under load. Worth checking.
Thanks, I will take a look at that. I have two wires running to the 48VDC input of the 14DC converter that I had run for other testing purposes. I have hooked my meter to it while running, and as I recall, I didn't really see much of a drop. But I will check the one battery. I checked the batteries this afternoon before plugging them in for charging. The pack as well as all the individual batteries were within .1 volt of the last time just before I plugged them in. I am kind of wondering what would happen if I went 2 months. I just want to make sure I am keeping them charged up sufficiently while not getting carried away. After all, it is a pain to deal with. So I am just trying to figure out the best schedule for my usage. I am hesitant to buy a watering system when I really don't know how long these batteries will last. And for charging once a month, the pain is bearable. BTW, these batteries are NAPA Golf Car Deep Cycle batteries. Not sure if that is significant in this discussion.
 

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Golf car batteries are not designed for such high discharge rates as the Trojans, It may be that a you can select a more appropriate charge algorithm in the delta q. Thats worth exploring. Ask the NAPA sales about what Delta Q algorithm they would recommend for these specif batteries.
 

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Trojan and US batteries run for 8 about 1445.00 including tax and cores. I would not recommend even thinking about assembling any lithium batteries without the knowledge how to assemble and connect all the components required to maintain them. That’s why most are going to the voltronixs kit route because most of us don’t have the background knowledge and it’s a lot easier to have it already done. Yes that’s where a lot of the expense in those kits are. Someone else already done that for us we just want to hook it up and go.


Hey boiler where do you get the US batteries for that price? That’s a good price.


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Hey boiler where do you get the US batteries for that price? That’s a good price.


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Where are u located? Magnolia Carts in Flora, Ms
Trojan and US batteries same price. Trojans usually cheaper than US. 1444.50 out the door w cores. Haven’t bought from him before. Found him on FB. He’s only about 20 minutes away.


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Just a point Trojans are traction batteries, not deep cycle. Deep cycle batteries are not designed for high rate discharge. Trojans as traction batteries are.
Did you come up with this terminology, or there is an industry standard (leaving aside marketing) ?
 

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Point taken.
 

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Their website
 

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