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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,
I purchased two light bars from Rough country and a set of Seizmik lighted mirrors for my 2022 Polaris Ranger Ultimate. I hooked everything up to my above busbar and everything worked as planned. Last weekend I was out riding, and after about 4 hours boom I lost my light bar, Northstar display, and all the main switches that came with the machine. My dash, rear, and turn signal lights are still good. Does anyone have any idea where I should start? I mean with fuses etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Hello all,
I purchased two light bars from Rough country and a set of Seizmik lighted mirrors for my 2022 Polaris Ranger Ultimate. I hooked everything up to my above busbar and everything worked as planned. Last weekend I was out riding, and after about 4 hours boom I lost my light bar, Northstar display, and all the main switches that came with the machine. My dash, rear, and turn signal lights are still good. Does anyone have any idea where I should start? I mean with fuses etc.
I believe it is an accessory fuse.
 

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2020 Ranger XP1000 Northstar Ultimate Crew
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On mine theres two. One called display and the other called access. If I remember correctly the access is the key on power to many options like the buss bar.

How did you wire the lights? Have a diagram of how it was set up by chance?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
On mine theres two. One called display and the other called access. If I remember correctly the access is the key on power to many options like the buss bar.

How did you wire the lights? Have a diagram of how it was set up by chance?
I did see that the access fuse is blown, I did turn everything on at once and I did not have a problem. It was just weird that I was driving that long and just out of the blue it shut off.
 

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Well I suspect that your pulling too much power through the ignition feed. It doesn’t take much of a light bar to be too much for that circuit. How many watts are those bars?

I would also recommend a relay for these accessories. Use the battery for terminal 30 on the relay and keep the ignition powering the switch which in turn powers 86 of the relay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well I suspect that your pulling too much power through the ignition feed. It doesn’t take much of a light bar to be too much for that circuit. How many watts are those bars?

I would also recommend a relay for these accessories. Use the battery for terminal 30 on the relay and keep the ignition powering the switch which in turn powers 86 of the relay.
would that keep switches on all the time?
 

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Heres a good diagram. Go to post #9. Crazy E provides some good info in his posts. For the relay battery power cab be either 30 or 87 (i prefer 30) but it works either way so long as you dont hook it to 87a if you have that type of relay. This method makes the relay not the switch do the work and takes the stress off the ignition circuit. Ignore any colors in this case and focus on the function of the circuit.


 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Heres a good diagram. Go to post #9. Crazy E provides some good info in his posts. For the relay battery power cab be either 30 or 87 (i prefer 30) but it works either way so long as you dont hook it to 87a if you have that type of relay. This method makes the relay not the switch do the work and takes the stress off the ignition circuit. Ignore any colors in this case and focus on the function of the circuit.


I will have to look. I am sure it did, but I had a buddy hook it up. I did see the fuse is blown, but I will have to see if the relay is hooked up. I know he cut and spliced wires, so there was not a lot of extra laying on top of the headliner. That has to be it. I am home sick from work, so I may look at it tomorrow. I will definitely keep you posted. I should have just figured it out and done it myself.
 

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FWIW the upper pulse bar, unless modified at the back of the cab does not have a true battery terminal. Both are ignition hot because of a relay they put in the circuit. The normal ignition circuit is still lower capacity in amps like the lower one bar. Therefore the “battery” wire that was cut from the light harness could provide the power to everything but you would make the switch do the work. Id still recommend the relay.

Probably made things more confusing but unfortunately Polaris decided to not have the upper pulse bar configured the same as the underhood one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well I suspect that your pulling too much power through the ignition feed. It doesn’t take much of a light bar to be too much for that circuit. How many watts are those bars?

I would also recommend a relay for these accessories. Use the battery for terminal 30 on the relay and keep the ignition powering the switch which in turn powers 86 of the relay.
The front and back bars are 240 watts each. I have been up and down all day so I am catching up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
FWIW the upper pulse bar, unless modified at the back of the cab does not have a true battery terminal. Both are ignition hot because of a relay they put in the circuit. The normal ignition circuit is still lower capacity in amps like the lower one bar. Therefore the “battery” wire that was cut from the light harness could provide the power to everything but you would make the switch do the work. Id still recommend the relay.

Probably made things more confusing but unfortunately Polaris decided to not have the upper pulse bar configured the same as the underhood one.
you make a lot of sense, I am not a wire guy but after seeing your examples and reading your input, it makes a lot of sense.
 
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