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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2017 Ranger EV, The batteries were getting bad and the cart was running slower and slower so I purchased the Allied Lithium battery pack. Terribly expensive but I hope worth it in the long run. What is the best converter to or way to connect the control switches. After the pack was in the cart will still not move. The solenoid engages but still no movement. I think the controller may be bad as well but how can it be checked. What else should be checked. Not a lot of information out there on this conversion for those of us who are not the best in advance electronics. Any help would be much appreciated.
 

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The controller - does it blink a light when you turn on the Ranger and try to drive it?

The power from the battery is not making it to the motor. There are many things that can go wrong - cables dirty, fuses blown, blink codes on the controller, loose connections that look fine but are not making good connection ... but I'd start with the controller. When the contactor pulls in, does the controller blink? If not, what about when you press the throttle?

The blink code (some number of blinks, then a pause, then it repeats) can be looked up in the manual. Do you have a service manual for your Ranger?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The controller - does it blink a light when you turn on the Ranger and try to drive it?

The power from the battery is not making it to the motor. There are many things that can go wrong - cables dirty, fuses blown, blink codes on the controller, loose connections that look fine but are not making good connection ... but I'd start with the controller. When the contactor pulls in, does the controller blink? If not, what about when you press the throttle?

The blink code (some number of blinks, then a pause, then it repeats) can be looked up in the manual. Do you have a service manual for your Ranger?
Thanks for responding. I followed the instructions by cleaning and torqueing all of the cable, the ones on the solenoid were not loose but not as tight as they should be. All of the terminals are clean. Replaced one 10A fuse for the accessories. Not clear on "When the contactor pulls in" means but the blinking code on the controller blinks 2 times. There is no power to the motor but the lights on the forward and reverse switch are blown so I am not sure if that means the switch no longer work. The switch lights blew when I put the light circuit wires directly on to one of the batteries and feed it directly from 52V. That is why I need to find a way to connect the switches to 12V - some kind of converter?
 

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Thanks for responding. I followed the instructions by cleaning and torqueing all of the cable, the ones on the solenoid were not loose but not as tight as they should be. All of the terminals are clean. Replaced one 10A fuse for the accessories. Not clear on "When the contactor pulls in" means but the blinking code on the controller blinks 2 times. There is no power to the motor but the lights on the forward and reverse switch are blown so I am not sure if that means the switch no longer work. The switch lights blew when I put the light circuit wires directly on to one of the batteries and feed it directly from 52V. That is why I need to find a way to connect the switches to 12V - some kind of converter?
Is there no 12V converter in your polaris? (I think there should be)

Mine is under the hood, between the charger and the cabin, passenger side, sort of behind and above the glove box. It is a small metal box. 48V goes in on two wires of the connector, 12V comes out on the other 2 wires. The 12V wires go to a fuse box. You can check for 12V on 3 terminals on the driver side which are 12V constant, negative (or 0V), and switched 12V. At least, that is how it is on my 2011.

The controller uses 12V to tie the inputs 'high' and then the dashboard switches pull the input to 'low' or 0V when you select FWD or REV. That is what lights up the switch for FWD or REV, 4wd or Turf, as well as the headlights. If there is no FWD or REV signal to the controller and you press the throttle, you get 2 blinks on the controller - I think the description is 'Sequence fault'.

'When the contactor pulls in" is when you turn on the key and hear the click. The contactor is beside the controller. 2 large wires bring battery + in and put battery+ out to the controller. The smaller wires are one from the key switch and one to battery negative. That puts 48V on the coil. It's called a contactor but its really a big relay.

Connecting pack voltage to the switches will cause damage, but I would expect that your fuse blew quickly. Hopefully it did not damage the controller, since that is expensive to replace.
 

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I had asked a question about the 12V circuit and how to separate it in this thread. XFaxman replied and has some pictures that could help you

 

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I have a 2017 Ranger EV, The batteries were getting bad and the cart was running slower and slower so I purchased the Allied Lithium battery pack. Terribly expensive but I hope worth it in the long run. What is the best converter to or way to connect the control switches. After the pack was in the cart will still not move. The solenoid engages but still no movement. I think the controller may be bad as well but how can it be checked. What else should be checked. Not a lot of information out there on this conversion for those of us who are not the best in advance electronics. Any help would be much appreciated.
I have a 2017 Ranger EV, The batteries were getting bad and the cart was running slower and slower so I purchased the Allied Lithium battery pack. Terribly expensive but I hope worth it in the long run. What is the best converter to or way to connect the control switches. After the pack was in the cart will still not move. The solenoid engages but still no movement. I think the controller may be bad as well but how can it be checked. What else should be checked. Not a lot of information out there on this conversion for those of us who are not the best in advance electronics. Any help would be much appreciated.
How are things going? I just installed the Allied pac. Similer issue.
 

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I have a 2017 Ranger EV, The batteries were getting bad and the cart was running slower and slower so I purchased the Allied Lithium battery pack. Terribly expensive but I hope worth it in the long run. What is the best converter to or way to connect the control switches. After the pack was in the cart will still not move. The solenoid engages but still no movement. I think the controller may be bad as well but how can it be checked. What else should be checked. Not a lot of information out there on this conversion for those of us who are not the best in advance electronics. Any help would be much appreciated.
I have a 2012 Ranger EV, I put 4 Allied 48 volt lithium batteries in about a year ago and have been very satisfied with the performance. Everything has worked perfectly, just dropped them in, hooked them up and everything worked just like when it had lead acid batteries.
 
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