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Polaris 600/700/800 Sportsman oil filter # 2540006 (0w40 Full Synthetic oil recommended only, Polaris, Amsoil, Mobil 1)

WIX p/n 51357
NAPA 1357
STP S6607
AC Delco PF2057
Purolator L14610
Pure One PL14610 (rated best)
Fram PH7317 or TG7317 (not recommended)
Mobil 1 M1-110
SuperTech….. ST7317


Wix filters:
Part Number: 51357 (Polaris 600/700/800 twins)
UPC Number: 765809513570
Principal Application: Ford Probe (89-97), Mazda Cars & Trucks (83-96), Kia Sportage (95-02)
Specs.
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 3.402
Outer Diameter Top: 2.685
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 20X1.5 MM
By-Pass Valve Set-PSI: 8
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Burst Pressure-PSI: 280
Max Flow Rate: 9-11 GPM
Nominal Micro Rating: 19

Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.475 2.173 0.233


have used all but the Fram and STP on my sp700, clearance may be different on the Rangers...
Length may be a concern becuase the diameter is tight on my quad so i doubt its tighter on the rangers.
 

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So to break this down in very simple terms, not just Amsoil products, but walking into your local NAPA, these fluids will work in place of Polaris branded (overpriced) fluids ?? (and please correct me if im wrong) the front diff takes a Mobil 424 fluid , the transfer case is good with a type F transmission fluid or mobil 424 fluid, and the rear diff is 75/90 gear oil.. and of course the engine oil is whatever 40 wt you like. Coolant is whatevers compatable with a aluminum tank ?
Im not instructing here fellas, ive been all over the net for a few hours gathering information, and to the best of my ability this is the most simple breakdown i can throw out there.. anyone care to concur ?
I cant see giving up $100.00 + for a 250 hour service kit.
and $30-$35+ bucks for 2 quarts of oil and a filter is just highway robbery.. no thanks
there's a few fresh juggs of Rotella T6 on the shelf waiting to go into my powersports equipment.. Ranger is on that list..
 

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Well, i drained the rear end and filled it with Redline 75/90 Syn gear oil, after a quick drive i will use one word (Butter)

I was short on time so i just stopped at the dealer and picked up the front diff and the transmission/transfer case fluid $40.00 Complete ripoff in my opinion.. but im doing some serious trail rideing Saturday and simply didnt have time to source all the alternative fluids i needed.

UPDATE: took the Ranger to the ORV Park, rode all day in deep mud, water crossings, Sand dunes, you name it.. Ranger never skipped a beat.. awesome, glad i changed all the fluids before that trip.. I put Rotella T-6 5-40 Syn in the motor (forgot to mention that) I noticed that startup is alot smoother than with the "Polaris" bottled 2w50oil the engine fires and comes to a much smoother idle alot quicker. I noticed no ill effects on my all day trip using the Rotella in the motor. and theres two oil changes in a four quart jug for about $20.00 easy choice from here on out in my book. And the Purolator car oil filter in place of the $10.00 Polaris filter works just fine as well for about $3.50 a filter, its also a little bigger than a powersports oil filter (i like that) more filter media inside..

so using Rotella and a Purolator oil filter i can pull of a good oil change for less than $14.00 that beats the snot out of the Polaris oil change package...
 

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UPDATE:

I have about 10 hours on this latest oil change of Rotella 5w40 and Purolator classic oil filter, the machine is performing fine but im scratching my head a bit, ive got a very light tick now.. Im going to go back to 50wt and a try a different filter and see what happens, I dont care for the ticking (almost like lifter tap) very, very, lite.. im guessing going back to the 50wt will hush this up a bit. when i switch back i will report my findings.. Oh, all the other fluids are doing great, im loving the Redline in the rear end.. awesome choice.

I noticed this when the Ranger was operating in 85 plus heat, Today at 62 degrees no ticking at all, it seems that the ticking is directly related to the outside temp.
 

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the transfer case is good with a type F transmission fluid
No, the transfer case takes the same as the transmission which is not the same as the rear axle. There is no lube on a Polaris that uses Type F (Ford) ATF. You can use ATF (not type F, Dexron III) in the front hub as it just requires a low viscosity hydraulic fluid.

Keep in mind the choice of fluids is not solely based on if it will work, the chemical make up of the fluid must also be taken into consideration. Some fluids might not be compatible with the metals used in say, the trans. Using an incompatible fluid could cause chemcial reactions with the soft metals over time. Not saying it will, just that that is a consideration when recommending fluids.

PS-I been selling lubes to Polaris owners since the early 90's. Imagine the shock back then when their owners manuals and the dealers said they had to use synthetic oil. The words "over my dead body" come to mind, LOL.
 

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You are correct sir, i got some bad information earlier.

ALSO: i dumped my Rotella T6 out with 16 hours on it and pulled my napa gold filter out as well (filter had two oil changes on it) i replaced with the same and the tapping is gone.. I wonder if the T6 is sheering down that quickly ? Polaris is now recomending 2w50 and the t-6 is 5w40 and after sheering down im sure its in the 30w range.. Also i noticed the rubber gasket inside the filter looked a little rippled, wonder how this might effect things ?
 

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Im leaning towards a filter issue.. when you look inside a Napa gold filter you can see a rubber gasket, im not refering to the retention cap, this is down around the spring.. well it was rippled up pretty good.. wonder what it might have been causing..
 

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That a NAPA 1357?

I got a Wix 51357 right here in front of me. There is red neopreme anti-drain back valve covering the inlet holes. There is also a thin black gasket just below that and its a little wrinked on this new one. but it does not appear to be anymore than being squeezed in place.

 

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That a NAPA 1357?

I got a Wix 51357 right here in front of me. There is red neopreme anti-drain back valve covering the inlet holes. There is also a thin black gasket just below that and its a little wrinked on this new one. but it does not appear to be anymore than being squeezed in place.

Yes its a napa filter , dont recall the number.. id have to look, the rubber that was wrinkled was inside the center hole down just a bit, this filter has a spring inside of it (kinda odd) anyway that piece of rubber down by the spring was all kinds of screwed up looking, the fresh filters rubber ring was perfect.. and yes Napa filters are produced by Wix.. love there products, im also a fan of Pureolator filters.

ALSO: the ticking stopped with a fresh filter and fresh Rotella T-6.
 

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Im on my third oil/filter change with a Napa filter (1357) and Rotella 5w40 full syn oil on my 09 700xp. After a little trouble with a filter (i was getting some tapping) it was replaced and my machine is silky smooth now, ive been to the ORV parks and put my machine through its paces on the 5w40 and auto filter and its been a great success.. im paying $19.99 for a 4 qrt jug of Rotella and around $3.50 per filter.. so im at about $13.50 per oil change now v.s. the $40.00 ish i was paying for the Polaris branded parts. Im also having great success with the Redline gear oil.. I have one very happy machine.
 

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If you go onto amsoils web page you can put in all your machines info and it pulls it up for you.

Some of the fluid are way different then you have listed.
 

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Grease grease(s) I have had really good experiences with...

Hope it's okay to post this in this thread. I have recently tried two different greases and so far, they have worked really well. I discovered both of them reading reviews of them on different forums. Seems both are not that well known, so I will pass them along.

First: I was having problems with a slight clunking of the rear prop shaft yoke on my Ranger 500 EFI. There's a good chance that the previous owner had neglected greasing the zirk on the prop shaft. (In my humble opinion this is one of - no the most important grease zirk on my 500 EFI). Anyway, I pulled off the prop shaft thinking I would just change out the universals with new grease fitted Napa universals but found that internal splines in the rear yoke on the shaft seemed quite worn. I had greased this but it seems my Ranger received a rough first 100 hours by the first owner so I doubt very much it got greased before I bought it. Realizing it was probably best to order a new rear yoke, I put the prop shaft back on. But before reinstalling it, I cleaned up the splines really well and applied a liberal amount of Ford MotorCraft grease:pTFE Teflon Driveshaft Slip Yoke Lubricant Ford Motorcraft XG-8 (ML1167/31508-42027). This grease gets great reviews!

I then replaced the prop shaft and gave it three pumps of Valvoline Synthetic Synpower grease: SynPower Synthetic Grease VV985. This grease also gets great reviews!

Anyway, while awaiting my new rear prop shaft yoke, this thing is quiet and tight! Gotta be something to a good grease. I used to use whatever was in the grease gun but never again.

The Ford Motorcraft XG-8 comes in a 'toothpaste' style tube so not much good for zirk application. However, the Valvoline Synpower grease comes in the 14 oz. (or whatever the bigger ones are) so this is likely what I will use for all the zirks on my Polaris - and my other vehicles. It states it is for ball bearings, u-joints, chassis, yokes etc. so seems to be a really good choice for my uses.

Anyway, just wanted to share this in case it helps someone down the road.

P.S: read something funny on one of the forums when I was reading about greases. The guy posts, 'oh is there a difference between greases, cause I just use whatever I have available and have never had a problem. If i have been lucky then it's the first time ever!. Ha!

So in other words, maybe I am putting too much faith in these greases, but I won't go back to using 'whatever.'

Regards...
 

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Amsoil recommendations

Amsoil website calls for Amsoil Transmission and Differential Fluid for the transmission and rear gear case in a 2007 Ranger 700. Also ATV-UTV Synthetic Front Drive Fluid for the front gear case. Has the product line changed since your recommendation?
 

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The Amsoil site does not list recommendations for the 2019 model machines. For my 2019 Ranger 900 Crew XP, can I be safe in using the recommendations for the 2018 900 Crew? I just finished our 25-hour break in period, so it's time to change the fluids.
 
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