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Hello again and thanks for the pictures. Realizing I’m not gonna be able to turn the collar down because I don’t have access to a lath. If you are all interested, I’d be willing to ship my axle and stub axle to you and pay you to rebuild it for me.? I have this machine totally rebuilt it looking nice? this thing has me held me up for 2 years. Thank you again for your time! Feel free to let me know if this is something it’ll be interesting and doing. I would pay up front.
 

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I’m sorry I don’t have access to a lath any more . but you can take it to your local Machine shop a they can help you. Sorry!
 

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Hello again and thanks for the pictures. Realizing I’m not gonna be able to turn the collar down because I don’t have access to a lath. If you are all interested, I’d be willing to ship my axle and stub axle to you and pay you to rebuild it for me.? I have this machine totally rebuilt it looking nice? this thing has me held me up for 2 years. Thank you again for your time! Feel free to let me know if this is something it’ll be interesting and doing. I would pay up front.
Do you have a local tech school? They usually take on small one off stuff like that to give the kids a project. They are usually a good source of available local shops that take on work like that as well.

Any friends or neighbors that work in a plant or warehouse setting, they usually have small shops for maintenance that might have a lathe and operator willing to do some lunch time work.

Another option is to post up your location and see if anyone close can help out.
 

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Hello, I joined this forum so I could post this information in hopes it will help someone else having this issue. My Ranger was down for months until just yesterday, trying to find a left axle or a fix. My Ranger is a 2001 500 4x4 Series 10. You cannot buy a new axle anywhere, and used ones are hard to come by as well. There are other methods of "fixing", but I wanted to share my way of "fixing" also as another option. I am not an expert, some may not agree with something I say I did, or my work may not be perfect, and just because it worked for me doesn't guarantee it will work for you. It appears there were different axles over the years, so this may not work for you. The best I can tell, my axle was part # 1380163. It looks like that part number was superseded at some point, 1380203. I may be incorrect, but I believe the 203 part number axle has a slightly longer insert (the female splined piece that we're all having issues with). I also want to note that 138213 is not interchangeable with the 163/203. 163/203 are interchangeable according to Polaris (though I believe the 203 one is slightly longer- could be wrong though).

Below is what I did to fix the issue. I should note that my fix will only work if the splines on the output shaft on the differential are still in usable condition. If those are completely worn too, this wont work.

I was told that a Dana 44 pinion yoke has the same 26 spline. I ordered one, but after taking a close look and measurement, I decided it was not feasible to use this as the OD of the yoke was much smaller than the ID of the tube. I did some more research and came across a Dana 35 pinion yoke that had very close measurements to what I wanted. This one would press right into the axle tube, once I removed the old insert (more information and pictures below). The part number is Spicer 2-4-4601-1. The cost was around $45. O'Reilly has a decent price on them, and so does Amazon.
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I removed the old insert piece by first measuring from the end of the insert to the center of the weld bead to determine where the end of the tube was, as not to damage the end of the tube (you will see in the picture below how the insert was attached). Then I took a grinder and carefully grinded off the weld. I took a LARGE hammer and beat on the insert until I could seek a break in what was left of the old weld, so that I could then grind closer to where the end of the tube was. Beat on the insert and eventually it will come out.
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This is what the insert piece looks like once you get it out. Notice where it butted up against the tube (this is where you want to be careful with the grinder)
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Here is what the old insert piece looks like compared to the Dana 35 pinion yoke. It obviously is not perfect. However, the yoke is the correct OD to be pressed (tapped with hammer will do) to go inside the tube.
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I took a torch and cut off the ears of the yoke as close as I could, then used a bench grinder to grind off what was left.
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It is not perfect, but it will do for this application. You obviously want to get it as round as you can so it's not wobbling when the axle is spinning, but this is not a very high RPM piece, so if it is not perfect, I think it will be fine.

I even welded the cap piece back on.
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Here is what it looks like when you press the new piece into the axle. You will see that I did not butt it all the way against the tube (refer back to the picture of the yoke compared to the old insert- the "step-up" part is not as wide). I would suggest getting an accurate measurement of the entire length of your axle before doing any of the work, and then positioning the new piece wherever it needs to be to have that same overall length).
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I then welded the new piece in and painted it. You will notice that the new insert is not flush with the tube as it was with the original (the OD on the end of the axle is now larger than the rest of the axle). This is fine as there is plenty of clearance inside the actual axle housing.

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I also used a product by Loctite called 660 on the splines. I also used RTV on the axle housing before bolting back to the differential as it seems like this side had gotten moisture in it, causing this side to rust, and ultimately making the splines fail.

Took the Ranger for a ride yesterday and everything seems to be doing just fine.

Please feel free to share this post and/or information on other forums or anywhere else so that anyone who is having this problem has another option for fixing their Ranger.


Thank you,
Travis
 
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