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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am trying to get my mother in law’s Ranger running again. 2015 Ranger etx.
Symptoms- for the last couple months is would occasionally stall after starting, and often stall when stopping and putting in park. It would always start right back up. Recently stalled coming out of pasture and would not start again.
It has about 200hrs and 400 miles on it. Most of the services are past due so I have a service kit to change all the fluids, filters, belts etc. spent most of its life stored in garage or atleast overhang. Has been in some mud lately with all the rain we have been having.

No check engine light. I have changed spark plug and air filter and verified spark to plug. Oil is dirty but in range. Tested fuel pressure (58 psi) and doesn’t drop when I can get it fired momentarily with fluid. Bench tested injector (although I read later in service manual that it isn’t recommended) solenoid activates and was able to verify clean spray pattern blowing brake cleaner through it. Reinstalled tested ohms according to manual tested good. Used test light on harness and it was getting power when motor is cranked. Tested ohms on cps sensor, tested good. Unable to test t-map sensor however I’m not sure the symptoms match as it would idle fine previously and had smooth acceleration. Don’t think it’s a bad batch of fuel as it is driven daily and has had this problem through multiple tanks. Tested cylinder compression 150psi. Didn’t do leak down but didn’t see a noticeable drop.

I am at a bit of a loss as I feel I have verified fuel, air, compression. I am now left with possible timing issue?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I am getting close to having to take it in to the shop. Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I don’t believe it is the fuel pump as I can hear it run and it is priming to proper fuel pressure. I am going to swap out the fuel in the tank to eliminate the obvious. Then I will check the valve clearance and timing marks. I haven’t done it before, but the service manual should walk me through it. Thanks for the advice.
 

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If you have a service manual it should walk you through it no problem. Basically just take the top cover off and use feeler gauges to check the clearances. While the cover is off you should be able to check the timing marks on the side of the gears on the cams. Also should be a few youtube videos on it as well I would think.

Example of valve clearance check



Example of timing marks
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Exhaust measured .013 & .012 (spec.008)
Intake measured .002 & .002 (spec .006)

I will order and install my new tappets. Hopefully that was the cause of my starting issue. I saw on another forum that the low clearance on the intake side can cause stalling when coming to a stop. That would line up with the symptoms.
 

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Polaris has the worst valve adjustment system. At $40 a pop. All Balls has a conversion kit to change to a shim under bucket style that has been used in motorcycles for years. New valve retainer and bucket. Those shims are about $5. Available for the 900/1000. Checking on the 570.
 

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All Balls web site says that Part number is not available. Do you know the price is it was available?
The price of the buckets and valve retainers and shims are going to add up pretty quickly for a job that will probably only need to be done once or twice on a Ranger in its lifetime.
Changing the valve retainers without removing the head can sometimes be challenging for an inexperienced person.
Just wondering if the parts cost and added labor would be worth it to go with the aftermarket kit?
 
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