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I have a 2005 Polaris ranger XP 700 EFI. Last weekend my son was driving it across the backyard When it stalled out. Tried starting it, it starts then shuts off Starts and shuts off. Has good fuel pressure 40 pounds, Good spark. I have checked the wires for chafing everything looks good. I don't know what to do next. There was a post in October last year about the same problem with the same year vehicle. I read the posts but there was no conclusion at the end. I'm hoping Mr. Gray Who had the post last year may have gotten a solution and could help me.
 

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Check for codes

I have a 2005 Polaris ranger XP 700 EFI. Last weekend my son was driving it across the backyard When it stalled out. Tried starting it, it starts then shuts off Starts and shuts off. Has good fuel pressure 40 pounds, Good spark. I have checked the wires for chafing everything looks good. I don't know what to do next. There was a post in October last year about the same problem with the same year vehicle. I read the posts but there was no conclusion at the end. I'm hoping Mr. Gray Who had the post last year may have gotten a solution and could help me.
CC,Check ALL battery connections Check the THROTTLE BODY ADAPTER flange where it bolts to the head for cracking. Can you check for EFI codes ? That will give you a good place to start...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have checked the battery connections, they are good, Throttlebody flange looks solid and has good seating on head. One thing I have noticed though when I turn the key and it starts and runs for 3 to 5 seconds the dash lights go out when it shuts off. This is a 2005 and just has the wrench light on the dash which is not lit or does not blink. I do not have a scanner to scan for codes. It almost seems like an electrical issue, As if the injectors were being shut off For lack of electrical current. If this is the case would the ECM be faulty. Is there a way to test or check the ECM
 

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I have checked the battery connections, they are good, Throttlebody flange looks solid and has good seating on head. One thing I have noticed though when I turn the key and it starts and runs for 3 to 5 seconds the dash lights go out when it shuts off. This is a 2005 and just has the wrench light on the dash which is not lit or does not blink. I do not have a scanner to scan for codes. It almost seems like an electrical issue, As if the injectors were being shut off For lack of electrical current. If this is the case would the ECM be faulty. Is there a way to test or check the ECM
The ECM (power module) a large aluminum box with fins, (under the hood) on the passenger side, has been a real problem on '05 and '06s as all electrical function is routed through it. They have a history of burning pins in the connector plugs. I would pull the connectors to the box and have a look for burnt/melted pins/wire. To check EFI codes, you rotate the key three times to on position and leave in on (not start) position the third time. If you have no codes it will blink six times then PAUSE then blink one time (61) for all clear. All EFI codes are two digit 22/45/51 etc. Count the blinks, look for the PAUSE then count the blinks....2 blinks pause 2 blinks =22
 

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Thanks for the heads up on the codes. A bit of a rookie and I did not know that. I did the code check with the key I get five blinks pause and then one for 51. Is there a place to look up these codes or what does that tell you?
 

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Thanks for the heads up on the codes. A bit of a rookie and I did not know that. I did the code check with the key I get five blinks pause and then one for 51. Is there a place to look up these codes or what does that tell you?
Choo, 51 is #1 Injector --open load or short to ground code. I would clear it from the computer by removing the negative battery cable for 30 seconds to make sure it is not an old code. Then see if it reappears. 51 is a tough code because sometimes it is a a bad injector or a busted wire going to the injector and sometimes even low fuel pressure will throw a 51. If it reappears, I would swap the connector/leads to the injectors and see if code 52 comes up which is #2 Injector open load or short to ground. That would confirm it is probably an injector problem of some kind..
 

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Ok . Sounds good, I'll give it a try tonite after work. Thanks islander I'll let you know what happens.
 

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Thanks for the heads up on the codes. A bit of a rookie and I did not know that. I did the code check with the key I get five blinks pause and then one for 51. Is there a place to look up these codes or what does that tell you?
Ok so I have switched the connections on the injectors and disconnected the neg terminal on the battery,waited a minute and reconnected the battery and tried to start then ranger. Same symptom starts and stalls. Now I have Four codes...51, 52, 54, 61 I've read that the 61 is a signal that the codes have been seen and denotes the end on the scan. 51 & 52 injector codes. But I'm not sure about 54. Is it possible there is one wire causing all of this or is the ECM module the real culprit. Now I'm at a real loss as to how to solve this and get this thing running.
 

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Ok so I have switched the connections on the injectors and disconnected the neg terminal on the battery,waited a minute and reconnected the battery and tried to start then ranger. Same symptom starts and stalls. Now I have Four codes...51, 52, 54, 61 I've read that the 61 is a signal that the codes have been seen and denotes the end on the scan. 51 & 52 injector codes. But I'm not sure about 54. Is it possible there is one wire causing all of this or is the ECM module the real culprit. Now I'm at a real loss as to how to solve this and get this thing running.
Choo, 54 is just your engine temp light, probably just the bulb. Fuel pressure is critical on these 700 engines. It MUST be 39 psi +/-3 lbs or you will have a problem. You can buy a FP tester or just replace the pump with this onehttp://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-Ranger-500-700-800-fuel-pump-with-filter-upgrade-kit-/190888108720?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c71d162b0&vxp=mtr which is cheaper.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Now it is Saturday morning, and I have pulled the storage box out of the driver side of the vehicle. There is an electronic module near the EFI test port. I unplugged the main connection checked the pins and sockets they're all nice and clean. I then plugged it back in ran a test for codes and got one code 54. The 51 and 52 code have disappeared. 54 called the way I understand it has something to do with the thermostat or temperature sensor. I wonder, is it possible the temperature sensor is bad and is there way to test that? Ha ha I just posted this note and I see you replied while I was posting it so I'm not so worried about the 54 anymore. I did a pressure check on the fuel pressure and it was 40 pounds exactly. Disconnected the battery entirely hooked it back up still getting that code. But the engine still starts then shuts off starts then shuts off . I'll follow the link you sent me Islander. Thanks for that and advise. I'll get back to you with my results
 

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Now it is Saturday morning, and I have pulled the storage box out of the driver side of the vehicle. There is an electronic module near the EFI test port. I unplugged the main connection checked the pins and sockets they're all nice and clean. I then plugged it back in ran a test for codes and got one code 54. The 51 and 52 code have disappeared. 54 called the way I understand it has something to do with the thermostat or temperature sensor. I wonder, is it possible the temperature sensor is bad and is there way to test that?
Have you checked the ECM connection under the hood ?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yes, removed ECM unplugged both connections looked for corroded or bad pins and connections, but they actually look real good, like new. Plugged it back in re-attached ECM to frame.connected battery, tried to start ranger. It starts ,runs for 3 seconds, then dies and all the lights on the dash go out when it dies.almost as if it was not getting any power. I tried restarting it several times with the same result. So just for kicks I thought I'd check for codes and guess what? That's right 51, 52, and 54 All are back. It's enough to make a guy pull his hair out. What do you think islander? Could the ECM be shot.?? Aahhhh!
 

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I have same problem replaced ECM ,key switch , spark plugs , SP wires and still same problem you might check to see if red wire with white stripe is getting hot at key switch when you turn to the on position .
 

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Yes, removed ECM unplugged both connections looked for corroded or bad pins and connections, but they actually look real good, like new. Plugged it back in re-attached ECM to frame.connected battery, tried to start ranger. It starts ,runs for 3 seconds, then dies and all the lights on the dash go out when it dies.almost as if it was not getting any power. I tried restarting it several times with the same result. So just for kicks I thought I'd check for codes and guess what? That's right 51, 52, and 54 All are back. It's enough to make a guy pull his hair out. What do you think islander? Could the ECM be shot.?? Aahhhh!
It could be the ECM or the ECU and they are both a bit spendy and they won't take them back once you have purchased them. Even the manual suggests swapping them out with known good ones ( a friends for example) to see what is good/bad. No actual test for them. Normally the bad ECM starts out with no fan function and then things stop working gradually until no power comes out of it. which is a dead giveaway but you never mentioned a problem with your fan. At this point you almost have to start throwing parts at it:mad:
These guys are the cheapest most reliable I have found....Partzilla.com - OEM Powersports Parts from Honda, Kawasaki Polaris, Suzuki and Yamaha at discounts up to 80% off MSRP
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I don't know anyone with any Ranger parts , this is my first. I will say that when I would turn the key on to do the code light test sometimes the fan would come on sometimes the fan would not. For instance this afternoon when I turned the key to Try and start the Ranger after I had checked the plugs on the ECU The fan would run almost every time I turned the key on. After little monkeying around trying different things I would turn the key on and start the vehicle again,and the fan did not come on several times. It's like it's hit and miss.
 

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I don't know anyone with any Ranger parts , this is my first. I will say that when I would turn the key on to do the code light test sometimes the fan would come on sometimes the fan would not. For instance this afternoon when I turned the key to Try and start the Ranger after I had checked the plugs on the ECU The fan would run almost every time I turned the key on. After little monkeying around trying different things I would turn the key on and start the vehicle again,and the fan did not come on several times. It's like it's hit and miss.
Choo, that is highly irregular as the fan should not come on AT ALL until the engine is at 194 degrees. :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well Islander a friend of mine has a friend who used to be a mechanic at a Yamaha shop for 18 years. When that shop closed after it was sold, he started his own business at his home. I called him and he's going to call me back on Monday.hopefully he may have some ideas. I'm just having a problem not being able to find any information on this issue. It is very limited like it hasn't happened very often. But I just can't believe this is that isolated.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Rocky can you tell me everything you have tried? It might help if we can find some common attempts that did not work.
 
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